Experience the Magic of Venice Carnival

People travel from far and wide to join in the city’s biggest party of the year and satisfy their fancy-dress cravings. The Venice Carnival packs the city with crowds of elaborately costumed revelers, colorful sights, an array of sounds, and a flurry of events.

Visit this watery wonderland in February for glamorous evenings while being wowed by elaborate traditions, as well as sampling carnival-exclusive sweet treats.

What is Venice Carnival and When is it?

The carnival takes place every year in the weeks leading up to Shrove Tuesday, with the 2020 celebrations happening from February 8 to 25. The final day is a last hurrah to gluttony and excess before the 40 days of Lent begin.

Renowned for its vibrant celebrations during the 18th century, Venice was the height of hedonism. Revived in 1979, the Venice Carnival today attracts revelers from all over the world to participate in the open-air costume extravaganza.

The final weekend, from Giovedì Grasso (Fat Thursday) to Martedì Grasso (Fat Tuesday), presents the best opportunity to experience a greater number of events leading up to the grand finale. Be prepared: this is not for the claustrophobic or the ascetic, as festive Venice welcomes almost 3 million visitors to partake in the joyous atmosphere.

Dress Like Royalty

Or a cowboy, or a superhero, or a pop star—when it comes to costumes, anything goes at the Venice Carnival. If you’re not quite ready for a full-fledged costume, consider adding a quirky element to your everyday attire. Giovanna Zanella offers an incredible selection of unique footwear, including shoes that resemble gondolas.

However, if you are planning to attend a more exclusive event and want to dress to impress, you need to visit Nicolao, hailed as the best costume shop in the city. Additionally, the charming Atelier Flavia can outfit your entire family in fabulous 18th-century attire. Just remember that February can be quite chilly, so accessorize your costume with cleverly hidden thermal layers or a stylish faux-fur coat.

If the Mask Fits

No carnival outfit would be complete without a mask. In fact, simply wearing a mask is sufficient to join in the festivities. One renowned mask-maker is Ca’ Macana, famous for creating the masks featured in Stanley Kubrick’s Eyes Wide Shut. For those seeking a more extensive collection, Tragicomica offers a variety of masks and also provides traditional costume rentals to complete your ensemble. In the Castello district, Papier Maché specializes in crafting intricately beautiful masks.

The most popular outfits are traditional costumes of 18th-century lords and ladies. Venetian masks have a rich history and were once worn year-round to conceal identities. The classic mask is the Bauta, which covers the entire face while allowing for easy eating and conversation. The Columbina mask, popularized by Commedia dell’Arte, covers only the eyes. Columbina, along with her companions, Harlequin and Pulcinella, remains a carnival favorite, as does the striking beak-like mask of the Venetian Plague doctor.

The Finer Things in Life

During the carnival, Venice hosts a variety of events that resemble a fairytale. The most renowned is the Ballo del Doge, but with VIP tickets costing four figures, this option may not be for everyone. Guests can revel in a feast while being entertained by acrobats and actors, followed by a night of dancing to a DJ. Other glamorous events include the dinner show and ball at Ca’ Vendramin Calergi, with tickets priced at €500 each. There is even a gambling room where guests may attempt to win back the cost of their ticket!

A Venetian Free-For-All

If the cost of costume hire and entry to masked balls is overwhelming, fear not! There are plenty of free events to enjoy during the carnival weeks. A spectacular waterborne parade along the Cannaregio Canal kicks off the celebrations. In St Mark’s Square, free events include the ‘Flight of the Angel’, where a costumed woman takes flight from the bell tower, soaring above the packed square. Another event, the ‘Festa delle Marie’, revives the traditional custom of the Doge presenting twelve local girls with dowries. Check the carnival’s website for dates and details of more free events.

Mix with the Locals

If the lively, costumed crowds are not appealing to you, consider heading to the main campi scattered throughout the city to mingle with locals. Little children often sport costumes squeezed over their puffer jackets, creating a charming tableau of miniature festive creatures. There’s even a mini funfair on the Riva degli Schiavoni where mini Zorros and Elsas enjoy the rides and indulge in cotton candy. Campos such as San Giacomo dell’Orio, Santa Margherita, and Vienna regularly host live music and DJs. One of the unique joys of the Venice Carnival is witnessing Batman and Tarzan engaging in football conversations at the bar or sharing a dance with Betty Boop and Thor at midnight in the square.

Let Them Eat Doughnuts!

In Italy, no holiday is complete without indulging in culinary delights. In Venice, their specialty is the frittella, a delightful doughnut available in various forms: either plain (with currants and candied peel) or filled with rich delights such as custard or Chantilly cream. Tonolo has a ‘healthy’ version stuffed with apples, and it’s an added bonus to see the efficient staff dressed in full costume during the carnival! There’s also the galani—light as air fried pastries dusted with icing sugar. These sweet treats are a carnival specialty and are best enjoyed with abandon, as crumbs and powdered sugar are part of the fun.

Hit the Ground Running

If you are looking for a special place to stay, ensure you plan ahead—availability will be scarce as the city teems with tourists. The same holds true for flights, as airlines typically increase prices during this busy season, especially over the final weekend. Booking early will afford you a wider selection of options, but keep in mind that prices will still be elevated. If crowds aren’t your cup of tea, consider steering clear of the San Marco and Cannaregio neighborhoods. Instead, explore the quieter Castello, Dorsoduro districts, or even the nearby islands. However, for those eager to immerse themselves in the carnival atmosphere, San Marco is definitely the place to be!