What is it with India and colour? From deity-filled temples to rainbow-hued saris, India’s colours are vivid and supersaturated. However, the palette goes into overdrive once a year for the festival of Holi in the Hindu lunar month of Phalguna – falling on 9-10 March in 2020 – when most of the country is drenched in coloured powder.
For those brave enough to venture into the streets when the gulal (powder) starts flying, Holi represents one of the world’s most immersive – and striking – travel experiences, a chance to dive into India’s captivating Hindu culture and feel, first hand, the fascinating sense of belief that makes this country thrive.
What is Holi?
For Hindus, Holi marks the ultimate battle between good and evil, symbolized by the demoness Holika’s attempt to murder her devout nephew, Prahlada, in a funeral pyre. Through the power of devotion, Prahlada was saved from the flames, but Vishnu ensured that Holika came to a fiery end. The first night of the Holi celebrations is marked by ceremonial fires, commemorating this legend.
Vishnu also contended with Holika’s evil brother, Hiranyakashipu, possessing special protection by Brahma. As Hiranyakashipu couldn’t be killed by man or beast, indoors or outside, by day or night using any weapon, Vishnu took on the form of Narasimha – half man, half lion – and dispatched the demon, at dusk, on the threshold of his house, with his bare hands, cleverly avoiding all these restrictions.
Despite the brutal aspects, the legend serves as an allegory for how easily humans succumb to vanity and greed, highlighting the challenges and rewards of maintaining faith. Reminders of the disembowelling of Hiranyakashipu can be found all over India.
How to Celebrate Holi
During Holi, nobody escapes from the celebrations when the colours start flying. Anyone who ventures into the streets gets doused with water and coloured powder, transforming the environment into vibrant hues of yellow, blue, red, green, pink, and purple. For visitors, it may resemble a playful paint fight, yet there’s a profound spiritual aspect behind this technicolor festivity.
Each colour tossed around holds significant symbolism for Hindus:
- Blue: Represents Krishna’s skin, water, and spiritual growth.
- Green: Symbolizes virility, new life, and the forests of Rama’s exile.
- Red: Indicates love, passion, and fertility.
- Yellow: Signifies the sun and the attire of Vishnu.
- Pink: Represents compassion.
- Purple: Suggests the mystery of the divine.
According to legend, the tradition of throwing coloured powder originated with Krishna, the playful incarnation of Vishnu, in the meadows of Vrindavan near Agra. Today, this exhilarating activity occurs all over India, accompanied by the rhythmic sounds of dhol drummers, enhancing the carnival atmosphere.
Prepare for a Colorful Makeover
A key rule of Holi is that you will get soaked in colours, whether you’re actively participating or merely an observer. It is essential to note that Holi pigments can stain, even if locals claim otherwise. Many individuals opt for inexpensive clothing that they can simply discard afterward; a kurta Punjabi (long cotton shirt for men) or a salwar kameez (shirt and trousers for women) perfectly suits the occasion. Opting for white attire often results in a vibrant masterpiece of modern art!
However, be cautious because synthetic chemicals in Holi pigments can cause skin reactions. For those with sensitive skin, a safer option is to seek a high vantage point to observe the festivities while minimizing the risks of getting drenched. If you choose to participate, wearing sunglasses is advisable to protect your eyes from the colours, and refrain from carrying any technology that may be damaged (or keep it in a ziplock bag).
Is Holi Safe for Women?
While Indian women enthusiastically join in the Holi celebrations, the festival unfortunately has a reputation for incidents of sexual harassment, often dismissed as innocent fun by male attendees. Many revelers, influenced by alcohol and bhang (cannabis), may behave inappropriately in crowded areas. Solo female travellers are likely to encounter more harassment compared to those accompanied by males.
Local women frequently avoid the bustling streets to minimize unwanted physical contact, opting instead to view the celebrations from balconies or doorways. This strategy allows for more control over personal space and provides an excellent vantage point for photography, especially with a long camera lens. Additionally, celebrating in smaller towns rather than crowded urban areas can help reduce unwanted attention.
Holi’s Festive Treats
Festival time ushers in a variety of special dishes. Wherever people gather, look for gujiya (flaky pastries stuffed with milk curds and dried fruit) and malpua (sweet pancakes served with spiced, reduced condensed milk). Savory snacks such as dahi vada (lentil fritters in yoghurt) are also enjoyed with great enthusiasm.
However, exercise caution with bhang ladoos (sweets) and bhang thandai (spiced almond milk), both made with cannabis. While the drug is semi-legal during religious celebrations, gauging its strength can be tricky, with travelers occasionally suffering accidents or worse while under its influence.
Where to Celebrate Holi?
Every part of India presents its unique Holi atmosphere. For an unforgettable celebration, head to these renowned locales:
Mathura & Vrindavan
Experience India’s most vibrant Holi celebrations in Mathura and Vrindavan, where Lord Krishna spent his formative years. The Banke Bihari Temple in Vrindavan serves as a hub for enthusiastic powder throwing.
Barsana & Nandgaon
In Barsana and Nandgaon, Holi transforms into Lathmar Holi, commencing two days before the festival. Here, women ceremonially ‘beat’ the village men with wooden staves before the traditional colours are thrown.
Anandpur Sahib
This holy town in Punjab celebrates Holi in tandem with Hola Mahalla, a festival coinciding with the Mughal empire’s peak, aimed at boosting morale among the Sikh populace. Activities include readings of Sikh poetry, mock battles, and demonstrations of sacred weaponry alongside the traditional Holi festivities.
Goa
Goa’s Catholic reputation is a common misconception; the state is predominantly Hindu (66%). Locally known as Shigmo, Holi is a significant event in Goa’s festival calendar. Apart from powder throwing, locals engage in parades and dances in colorful costumes, with a bit of pigment tossed around as well.
Shantiniketan
This West Bengali cultural institution is the place to enjoy a dignified Holi, featuring performances of music, dance, and drama for Basant Utsav, a festival initiated by India’s national poet, Rabindranath Tagore. In this celebration, colorful powder takes a backseat to iridescent costumes and make-up, with most activities commencing the day before Holi.
Delhi, Jaipur & Mumbai
These major Indian cities offer a unique urban Holi experience, where daily life pauses, and citizens engage in city-wide revelries with water and colourful pigments. While it may seem chaotic, the vibrant atmosphere is unparalleled.
