Beltane Fire Festival in Edinburgh
When it comes to large, wild gatherings, Edinburgh is best known for the Fringe Festival, a month-long revel dedicated to art, music, and drama. However, there is a much older, less-celebrated festival that is equally spectacular: the Beltane Fire Festival.
The Beltane Fire Festival marks the dawn of summer and the end of frost with bonfires, feasting, and rituals meant to appease the aos si – fairy folk who are significantly more bloodthirsty than those depicted in modern fairytales.
Along with holidays like Samhuinn, Imbolc, and Lùnastal, Beltane was one of the most important sacred days of the year. Today, this homage to an ancient Celtic holy day, once celebrated throughout Ireland, Scotland, and the Isle of Man, takes place annually on May 1st or the closest weekend night.
The Ritual of Beltane
The modern Beltaners, as members of the Fire Society are affectionately known, have taken these elements and created a vivid event that intertwines historic Scottish folk practices, reconstructed Celtic rituals, and contemporary dance, music, and acrobatics. Performers – some appearing almost nude with body paint, others in elaborate and at times frightening costumes – are joined by large, provocative puppets piloted by equally animated dancers.
While the actors and specifics of the celebration may differ each year, one thing is certain: the Beltane Fire Festival is not for the faint of heart or easily scandalized.
The festival begins on Calton Hill with a horn-hunting call. Flaming sculptures are ignited on the edges of the National Monument of Scotland, Edinburgh’s half-finished imitation of the Greek Parthenon. The May Queen emerges amidst the fiery glow, her body and face painted an ethereal white, clad in an elaborate white dress adorned with flowers. She leads a procession slowly around the hill, symbolizing the seasonal passage as she encounters performers who embody aspects of the natural world.
In addition to the flaming sculptures, bonfires are lit all over Carlton Hill to the entrancing soundtrack of rhythmic drumming. Once the procession concludes, performers scatter, presenting smaller, more intimate performances while often interacting directly with the crowd of thousands into the night. It is not unusual to conclude the festivities with an impromptu procession made up of performers and spectators alike, marching down the hill to the percussion of a few indefatigable drummers.
Where to Eat at Beltane Fire Festival
Feasting was an important part of the historic Beltane festivals. While there is no official meal included with tickets, a variety of delicious food trucks are available on site, offering everything from fragrant chili to traditional fish suppers with chippy sauce.
No alcohol is available on site; therefore, if you wish to drink during the festival, you’ll need to purchase it beforehand (keep in mind that no glass is permitted). Fortunately, Edinburgh features many specialty alcohol stores, including the Scotch Whiskey Experience on the Royal Mile and many smaller artisan shops in the Grassmarket among other shopping districts. Mead would be a particularly suitable choice, as it was favored by ancient Celts during Beltane celebrations.
If you prefer a sit-down meal before attending the Fire Festival, you’ll find a variety of options. At the higher end of your budget is The Witchery, just a twenty-minute walk from Calton Hill. Named in honor of the many accused witches executed in front of this old merchant’s home by the gates to Edinburgh Castle, The Witchery is an elegantly gothic restaurant adorned with dark wood, candles, and a secret garden room. The menu features local seasonal produce, including venison and scallops, and if you dine before 6 PM, two courses can be enjoyed for only £25.
Another great option is Ciao Roma on Southbridge, known for its award-winning ice cream in classic and inventive flavors. Alternatively, visit Howie’s on Waterloo Place, which serves traditional Scottish food at reasonable prices, or try the creatively named Holyrood 9A on Holyrood Road for gourmet burgers and casual pub grub.
Where to Stay for Beltane Fire Festival
Accommodations in Edinburgh vary widely from luxurious stays at the Balmoral to more humble lodgings. Some of the most affordable accommodations near Calton Hill include the Adagio Apartments, Southside Guest House, and several locations within the Ibis chain. The Adagio Apartments, complete with a kitchenette and washing machine, are particularly suitable for groups planning to stay several days beyond the Beltane Fire Festival.
Moreover, it’s important to note that Edinburgh is one of many historic cities experiencing a shift where landlords are converting formerly residential properties into permanent Airbnbs, thereby creating a housing shortage and affecting long-term residents. While the allure of Airbnb may be strong, most locals prefer that visitors opt for more traditional accommodations. If finding lodging in Edinburgh proves difficult, consider Glasgow, just 50 minutes away by commuter train, which is equally worth exploring.
With attendance typically ranging from six to twelve thousand people, it’s wise to plan your visit well in advance. If you can’t attend this year, remember that the Beltane Fire Festival has been part of Edinburgh’s cultural landscape for over thirty years, honoring thousands of years of ritual, magic, and rebirth.
