Given this is an article about hiking, it may surprise you to learn that I’ve always hated the prospect of long walks. Why feel the need for them when vehicles are near and in abundance? I used to find walks boring with the unwelcome bonus of chafing on the ole thighs.
I can typically walk for a total of 25 minutes because I start looking for the nearest bus stop. Until recently, I fully expected my epitaph to read, “Here lies Stephanie Yeboah, sworn nemesis of walking.”
When I began my journey to the beautiful city of Matsushima in northeastern Japan, I was well aware that a planned highlight included hiking the newly reopened Oku-Matsushima Trail; a 10km hike that is part of the Miyagi Olle. To say I was initially apprehensive would be an understatement – as a plus-sized and asthmatic woman, my first instinct is often to put myself down and assume I’ll fail. However, in keeping with my promise to stay positive and be open to new experiences from now on, I decided to believe in myself and tackle the trail!
Now we have a post-Oku-Matsushima-Trail Steph. Post-Oku-Matsushima-Trail Steph has a different outlook on walking, my friends. She doesn’t flinch at the prospect of walking a mile or two and has even bought new trainers and a travel water bottle for upcoming walking adventures. How? Why? Who woulda thought?! Let me give you an insight into this incredibly beautiful place and why it marked such a turning point for me and my approach to hiking.
Since the trail opened in August 2018, it has become one of the biggest tourist hotspots for foreigners and locals alike. Its beauty and very existence, despite the tragic tsunami that devastated the Miyagi Prefecture in 2011, stand as a testament to the unique structure of Matsushima Bay itself. The famed cluster of about 260 islets served as a natural buffer, weakening the impact of the waves and largely sparing the coastal town from utter devastation, despite its proximity to the 9.0-magnitude earthquake’s epicentre in the Pacific Ocean.
My new favourite hike is a 10km course located on one of the bay’s biggest islands, Miyato Island, and the Nobiru coastline that stretches along the Pacific Ocean.
Famous as one of Japan’s Three Great Sights (Nihon Sankei) due to its incredible views of the islets spread across the bay, this moderate-difficulty trail should take around four hours to complete. When I arrived at the start of the trail outside Aomina Visitor Centre, I loaded up on bottled water and insect repellent, and then did some gentle lunges and stretches to prepare for the hike. I strongly advise anyone undertaking this trail to do the same, as there are steep inclines at certain points along the way. Hiking or trekking boots are recommended; while I wore comfortable sports trainers, proper hiking boots provide additional grip for a more stable walk. Further tips on preparation and etiquette can be found here.
The trail takes you through prehistoric landmarks dating back to the Jōmon period, which covers Japan’s Neolithic period. It passes by the Satohama Shell Mound, a prehistoric refuse heap of shells and evidence of human occupancy. The course is marked by blue and red ribbons, paintings, and sculptures throughout, depending on the direction you choose at the outset.
Because I was a bit of a newbie to the whole hiking thing, we took the ‘easier’ route (which, in fairness, was still pretty hard). We hiked up exceedingly high stairs, platforms, and ridges, and I realized hiking boots would have been a better option for me. I’ll admit that the vertical climbs weren’t my favourite part of the trail; there were stages where I considered turning back, but I found the mental will to push ahead, and my body followed. Even though it took us a bit longer to complete, I felt immensely proud that I was able to achieve the summit.
Along the trail, we also encountered local wildlife, trees and bushes native to the area, and excitingly for me, bamboo! A whole bamboo forest lies nestled deep in the mountain—not only is it the perfect Instagram location, but it is also absolutely beautiful. The serene environment made the next hour and a half go by swiftly, as I captured moments and absorbed the sounds around me.
Once you reach the top, you are treated to absolutely extraordinary panoramic views of the majority of the 260 islets within Matsushima Bay; the kind of once-in-a-lifetime scenes that made the entire hike worthwhile. We spent a few minutes taking in the sights and hydrating before starting our descent.
A note here for those who might struggle with vertigo or frequent dizziness—it’s essential to listen to your body and pause to catch your breath when needed. On the way down, I unfortunately tripped over an exposed tree root due to feeling woozy and injured my ankle. Not the ideal souvenir from such a wonderful experience, but in retrospect, I wish I’d listened to my body more and rested when necessary.
As we hiked further, we eventually reached flat land and walked along the beautiful coastline while taking in fresh ocean views. The trail led us to a large grassy area that had been hit by the tsunami. It was a reflective moment as we viewed the tsunami shelters embedded in the trees that protected the population. The resilience and strength of the locals, who rebuilt the area and re-harvested crops, turned something tragic into beauty and abundance. There is also a residential area along the coast where you can enjoy a meal and relax after your hike (I highly recommend the oysters—Matsushima is nationally famous for them).
As my wobbly yet euphoric legs hobbled back to the Visitor Centre after hours of climbing and walking, I reflected on the accomplishment of completing a four-hour hike. The realization of what my plus-size body could achieve hit me powerfully. Surrounded by nature and absorbing the breathtaking views made it all worthwhile, and I would do it again in a heartbeat.
Getting There
The closest station to the Aomina Visitor Centre is Nobiru Station, which is a 15-minute drive away. You can hire a car from central Matsushima, which is a 15–20-minute drive.
Stephanie Yeboah travelled to Japan with support from the Tohoku Tourism Promotion Organization. Contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.
