Marrakesh is like an excited child that takes you by the hand and wants you to come and play. Tugging at your sleeves, the city pulls you into souks and drags you down side streets to explore all of the irresistible colours, perfumes and flavours.
Marrakesh is filled with colour, and its fashion is no exception. The ochre alleyways are punctuated by silhouettes draped in vibrant textiles and flowing robes, or djellabas. The souks are an overflowing treasure trove for shoppers, with winding streets packed with clothes, accessories, and exotic adornments.
Here in Morocco, designers are merging traditional clothing with expressive designs and contemporary fashion. The modest fashion market is booming, with options and styles rapidly expanding. Conservative fashion transcends mere coverage; reasons for adopting modest dress involve choice, bodily autonomy, self-expression, or personal taste. Regardless of religion, modest fashion is being embraced globally, and it’s easy to see why. The flowing cuts are effortlessly chic yet comfortable, showcasing a captivating range of eye-catching prints and colours.
Algerian–French designer Norya owns a small boutique nestled beneath the leafy canopy of a trendy café. Although her shop is petite, Norya’s designs have draped some of the world’s biggest celebrities (such as Kate Moss, Erykah Badu, and Sharon Stone). She sits on the sun-drenched patio of her boutique, wearing one of her iconic silk kaftans in splendid dandelion yellow.
“It was an accident,” Norya reveals, reflecting on her rise to prominence as a designer.
The creation of her brand, Norya ayroN, was a spontaneous decision, and her first collection consisted of just a few pieces. It quickly became a hit, with her line of kaftans and abayas (long dresses) highly sought-after both locally and abroad.
“The idea was to create a mix of my cultures. I am from North Africa, but I grew up in Europe, so I mix between the two. The North was colonized for years. It’s already a mix, so it’s very interesting,” Norya explains.
“The colours inspire me the most about Africa. Women in Morocco love fabrics; they love colours. They don’t merely buy everything in shops, like in Europe. They are creative and craft their own dresses. Every time I go to a shop to buy fabric, it is filled with women purchasing fabric for themselves.”
This creative and vibrant approach to fashion is certainly evident in her brand’s aesthetic. The pieces, many of which are one-offs, showcase vibrant hues, elegant silhouettes, and bold patterns printed on luxurious silk fabrics. By adding a sleek bohemian twist to traditional North African garb, it’s easy to understand why Norya’s designs are highly coveted overseas.
Designers like Norya are broadening the market for traditional clothing and challenging the stereotype that conservative fashion is limiting.
“I don’t see it as a conservative thing at all. I love long dresses; they’re wonderfully elegant. I believe a long dress can be 100% more feminine and sexy than a short one.”
Norya’s designs have gained substantial popularity, prompting her to launch a line of menswear.
“Men wear dresses too! I sell dresses to men from everywhere.”
Regardless of culture or gender, it becomes apparent that the colourful fashion of North Africa has something for everybody.
Tap into traditional Moroccan fashion and fusion
Norya ayroN
You can visit Norya’s boutique, Norya ayroN, inside Le Jardin café in the Medina, or at her second boutique in Marrakesh’s downtown area of Guilez (17 Rue Tarik Ben Ziad).
Joykech Bazar
This small boutique in the northern area of the Medina resembles a paisley dream from the psychedelic ’60s. Joykech Bazar features a fantastic collection of upcycled vintage kaftans in a splendid array of colours and prints. The store also showcases a contemporary collection that merges traditional cuts with funky fabrics and bold patterns, creating the ultimate boho-chic aesthetic.
Exploring the souks
Traditional Moroccan clothing, such as djellabas, abayas, and kaftans can be found in the souks scattered throughout the medina. Shoppers are spoiled for choice within this labyrinth of streets, which is overflowing with wares. Head to the dyers’ souk to uncover the source of the brightly coloured textiles. Reels of wool and silk hang overhead, forming a technicolor array infused with poppy, saffron, and indigo. Here you can pick up a hand-dyed scarf or shawl decorated with exotic pigments.
The leather production in Morocco is world-renowned. Numerous shops in the medina showcase leather goods, offering anything from classic sheepskin Moroccan slippers (babouches) to goat-hide handbags and colourful leather jackets. The tanneries give a brief glimpse into the curing process, and there is a cluster of leather suppliers in the vicinity. If you decide to purchase something from the souks, be prepared to haggle!
