Celebrate Apokries: Athens Carnival Season
In Greece, the three weeks before Lent, which culminates in Greek Orthodox Easter, hosts a lively carnival season known as Apokries (February 9 to March 1 in 2020). This colorful festival is interwoven with Christianity, yet its origins trace back to ancient celebrations honoring Dionysus, the god of wine and fertility. Consequently, most Athenians enthusiastically engage in the festive atmosphere of Apokries, making late winter an ideal time to explore the city.
Parties and Parades
During this season, Athenians enjoy the perfect excuse to venture out more often than usual as the city’s nightlife awakens after a quiet holiday period. Bars and clubs host themed parties, and costumed revelers of all ages fill the streets and public transport, enhancing the overall festive experience.
The peak of the celebrations occurs on the final weekend, especially on Sunday, when numerous outdoor festivities, masquerades, and vibrant parades take place. Notably, the parade in Moschato—a coastal neighborhood near Piraeus—and the bustling streets of Plaka, where locals engage in playful plastic-bat wars among showers of confetti, are particularly impressive.
Special Days
On the second Thursday of Apokries, known as Tsiknopempti, a traditional meat feast occurs. Thick smoke blankets the city as many shopkeepers fire up spontaneous barbecues on the streets. Dining at a restaurant on Tsiknopempti demands early reservations; one highly recommended option is Telemachos, located in the chic Kolonaki neighborhood, making it a perfect fit for this culinary occasion.
Following the raucous last weekend of carnival, Clean Monday—in essence the first day of Lent—offers a public holiday for relaxation. Athenians often gather to enjoy ouzo and various seafood while picnicking in the countryside or along the coast. The picturesque Filopappou Hill, which boasts splendid views of the Saronic Gulf, becomes a preferred spot for those choosing to remain in the city.
Excursions from Athens
While every region in Greece boasts unique customs and celebrations, for a quintessential Greek carnival experience, visit Patra in the Peloponnese during the third weekend. The city fully embraces the carnival spirit, with a grand parade on Sunday that evokes the vibrancy of Brazilian festivities. Hence, it is advisable to secure accommodation well in advance unless you are prepared for an exhilarating three-day party.
The Clean Monday celebrations in the charming town of Galaxidi, located on the Gulf of Corinth in central Greece, are arguably the most electrifying and packed with action. Locals and visitors enthusiastically engage in colorful flour-smudging activities in the streets, creating a delightful atmosphere that lasts well into the night.
Article first published in January 2019, with the last update in December 2019.
