Shopping Experiences in Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar

The elaborate etiquette of the Ottoman Empire lingers in many day-to-day rituals still observed in its greatest creation, the city of Istanbul. A good example is the ubiquitous and highly formalised system of greetings used by all locals, which harks back to the courtly manners refined in the imperial palaces of Topkapi and Dolmabahçe. Moreover, the practice of doing business over numerous glasses of tea is as common in today’s fiercely competitive and ultra-modern Turkish banking system as it was back in the days when the sultans received sacks of gold from the turbaned representatives of their far-flung colonies.

Until recently, the art of bargaining was another of these rituals. However, times have changed, and these days the non-negotiable price tag reigns supreme in most of the city’s retail outlets. Here, as in many former stops along the legendary Silk Route, the days of camel caravans have long gone, supplanted by multinational retailers, sleek supply-chain management, and an increasingly homogenous shopping experience.

Shopping in the Grand Bazaar

Perhaps the only exceptions to this rule can be found in the Grand Bazaar (Kapalı Çarşı or Covered Market). Established by Mehmet the Conqueror after he stormed into the city in 1453, the bazaar was the commercial centre of the empire for centuries. Although it has been supplanted by business and retail centres on the other side of the Galata Bridge in recent times, it still houses nearly 4000 bustling retail outlets. Many of these have adopted the modern practice of set pricing; however, some still take pride in practicing the ancient art of bargaining. Expect to negotiate over the price in artisan shops that sell large items such as carpets, paintings, statues, furniture, and textiles, as well as those stocking counterfeit luxury goods.

Top Tips for Bargaining

If you are visiting Istanbul and are keen to buy a carpet, rug, or artwork in the bazaar, the following tips could be helpful:

• The ‘official’ prices here have almost always been artificially inflated to allow for a bargaining margin – 20% to 30% is the rule of thumb.
• Shopping here involves many aspects of Ottoman etiquette – you will drink tea, exchange polite greetings, and size up how trustworthy the shopkeeper is. In turn, the shopkeeper will do the same.
• Turkey is a very family-oriented society. Don’t be surprised if someone asks about your marital status or children as a conversation starter. This can often lead to engaging discussions and an excellent icebreaker.
• Never allow yourself to feel pressured to buy something. Tea and polite conversation are complimentary – if you accept them, you don’t need to make a purchase in exchange.
• It’s important to do your research. Always shop around to compare quality and pricing.
• Before starting to bargain, decide how much you like the carpet or rug, and how much you are prepared to pay for it. It’s crucial to stick to your budget.
• Your first offer should be around 50–60% of the initial asking price. The shopkeeper will likely react with surprise or feigned offense – this is all part of the bargaining ritual.
• The shopkeeper will then make a counter offer of 80–90%. Express disappointment and explain that you are not prepared to pay that amount, then offer around 70%.
• By this stage, you and the shopkeeper should have sized each other up. Should their price match your predetermined budget, you can agree to the deal. If not, smile, shake hands, and walk away.
• If you are still unsure about making a purchase, feel free to take a business card and step away for a while to contemplate the offer. However, remember that when you re-enter the shop, you may not receive a better price.

These same rules also apply in some textile, jewelry, and antique shops in the bazaar. Nevertheless, they don’t apply to all shops. Fashionable outlets such as Abdullah Natural Products and Derviş Bath Accessories and Natural Textiles initiated the trend towards set pricing, prompting many other stores to follow suit.

Consequently, if you were anticipating the process of bargaining in Istanbul with a degree of trepidation, you can now rest easy – many items will likely display set price tags. However, if they don’t, this guide will help ensure that the process remains easy, enjoyable, and enriched with Ottoman tradition.

Article first published in March 2012, and last updated by Didem Tali in December 2019.