The Spectacular Tour du Canigou: A Must-Do Hiking Adventure

Trying not to look down, my father and I clambered up a steep rocky chimney to the peak of Mt Canigou, to be greeted by a view of the glittering Mediterranean, 50km in the distance. We were at the highest point of the Tour du Canigou, a little known circuit of a spectacular Catalan mountain in the east of the French Pyrenees. Behind us stretched the rest of the Pyrenees mountain range, and below were villages tucked into folds of France and Spain.

Covering just over 15km per day for five days (you can also choose a four day variant), the Tour du Canigou takes walkers around and over the iconic mountain, which serves as the final large peak in the Pyrenees before the sea. A primary attraction of the tour is its remoteness, but the trip also presents varied flora and fauna, a chance to experience the region’s rich Catalan and French history, plus delicious local food and affordable accommodation.

Setting off

We started our tour at Batère refuge on the eastern side of the tour. The hostel is in a mostly-empty large block, once home to workers from now disused iron mines. Arriving in the afternoon, we enjoyed a fulfilling lunch featuring fondue and sausage, followed by a restful nap in the functional rooms. In the evening, we shared a meal with other walkers, exchanging our hiking experiences before settling in for an early night. Most beds are in shared dorms, but private rooms are available. In the early summer, you may find yourself alone in a dorm due to the low number of visitors.

We began our days early to complete our hikes before the hottest part of the day, allowing us to enjoy the beautiful light of sunrise. At 7am, after a simple breakfast of bread and coffee, we shouldered our packs and set out. We commenced downhill through grassy terrain before climbing onto a wooded path. Horses swished their tails at the summit of one hill.

In the mountains

Throughout the day, we ventured deeper into the mountains, climbing and traversing ridges around the eastern slopes of the Canigou massif. At day’s end, we reached the St Guillem hostel, nestled in a verdant valley. The hostel manager prepared a delightful lunch and discussed her plans to establish a business transporting packs for walkers on the Tour du Canigou—a service currently unavailable. We also procured packed lunches from the hostel for the next day.

Woken by a fierce thunderstorm, we patiently waited for the rain to pass before venturing up the valley. This day proved to be filled with nature’s wonders. We spotted a salamander resting on the damp ground, and, further along, wild boars could be heard rustling in the woods. A herd of Isard, the Pyrenean version of chamois goats, ran silently across our path. Later, as we crossed a stream, they appeared in the open, heading up the mountain.

At this stage, it is feasible to head directly to Mariailles, as shown on local maps and websites. However, we decided to extend our trip by an additional day, making our way to Las Conques refuge in La Preste, which only accommodates guests on Friday and Saturday nights. Upon arriving at midday, we discovered that the manager wouldn’t arrive until 4pm. When he arrived in his van from Spain, he lit a fire, providing us warmth and the luxury of hot showers.

The following morning, we faced a steep climb to reach a ridge. At the top, clouds swiftly descended, and we navigated through low visibility and wind towards the Mariailles refuge. There, we journaled and listened as a large group of Catalans camping nearby arrived for dinner. Through gaps in the cloud, we could glimpse the mountain. Notably, there was no wi-fi and only intermittent phone signals throughout the trip, which encouraged evenings filled with conversation, reading, or settling down early.

Reaching the peak

Early in the morning, we set off determined to reach the summit, and fortunately, we enjoyed a clear day. While the mapped Tour du Canigou circumnavigates the peak of Canigou, many hikers choose to ascend to the mountain’s top via a clearly marked route. Patches of melting snow lay in the broad valley leading up to the summit. Near the top, the path wound through scree, culminating in the steep chimney section. Here, we utilized both hands and feet to climb, feeling the added weight of our bags.

At the summit, a breathtaking 360-degree view of the entire range unfolds. This mountain holds significant cultural importance for the Catalan people, marked by a striking metal crucifix that stands guard throughout the year. During our visit, a pyre was being constructed with logs collected by hikers, destined to be ignited in celebration of the St John festival on Midsummer evening (23 June). After capturing many photographs—accompanied by the faint sounds of violin music played by a patriotic day-tripper—we began our descent down a gentle slope for lunch at the next refuge.

End of the tour

At the base of Canigou lies the large Cortalets refuge, where we sipped beers while gazing at the sea, having almost completed our hike. Cortalets is accessible by car, rendering it busier with hikers, and its imposing structure is a sight to behold. The following day we embarked on an easier trek back to Batère, where our journey commenced, following the GR10 trail—a vast route traversing the Pyrenees from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean.

Trip stats

Distance: around 85km
Duration: 5 days
Max altitude: 2784m (an average of 900m climbing and descending each day)
Price for each hostel: approximately £40 per person per night for food and board.
When to go: June—this month offers melted snow, long days, and open refuges without crowds. However, hiking is feasible throughout all summer months.

Getting there

The stops on the Tour du Canigou are quite remote, especially without a car. The number 340 bus runs from Perpignan to Arles-sur-Tech, taking about an hour for a mere €1, thanks to local government support. To reach the first stop on the journey, hikers walk from Arles-sur-Tech to Batère, which takes about four hours. On the return, you will descend from Batère to Arles, presenting an opportunity for a pitstop on the last day of the tour. For those seeking a scenic route, consider resting in Batère for a day prior, then hiking for four additional days to reach Banyuls-sur-Mer on the coast.