Explore the Bohemian Highway: Wine, Redwoods, and Culinary Delights
Set off on a journey along a road less traveled: the grapevine and redwood-studded Bohemian Highway. This ten-mile stretch of road winds through the rolling hills of California’s Sonoma County, the largest wine-producing county in the state, featuring thirteen approved American Viticultural Areas and over 350 wineries. While short in length, its beauty is vast, making it ideal for a leisurely drive or bike ride. You’ll roll past endless vineyards, enter magical forests reminiscent of the region’s logging past, and cross the mighty Russian River, which gives the surrounding valley its name.
Day One: Redwoods and Champagne
Morning:
Begin your journey by mingling with California’s majestic Sequoia sempervirens, commonly known as coast redwoods. These incredible trees can live for up to 2,000 years, grow to a diameter of 12-16 feet, and stand up to 350 feet tall. The Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve, located just north of the Bohemian Highway, features a visitor center, various picnic facilities, and the Pioneer Nature Trail—a mile-and-a-half round-trip trail showcasing the ancient redwood forest that once thrived in this area before logging commenced in the 19th century.
Midday:
There’s no better way to celebrate Day One of your journey along the Bohemian Highway than with a champagne toast. Korbel Champagne Cellars is the oldest continually operating champagne house in North America, established in 1882. The Bohemia-born brothers Francis, Joseph, and Anton founded the winery with a commitment to producing méthode champenoise California champagnes.
Due to their early production, Korbel can use the term Champagne for their sparkling wines, although they respectfully refer to them as California Champagne. Participate in a cellar tour that includes a champagne toast, followed by an insightful behind-the-scenes look at the bubbly-making process. Take a stroll through the charming, manicured gardens, ideally with a champagne glass in hand. Enjoy lunch at the onsite delicatessen, which boasts a selection of pastries and sandwiches, along with outdoor balcony seating.
Evening:
Settle in for the night at the eco-chic, boutique Boon Hotel + Spa, an intimate retreat on the edge of the Armstrong Woods State Natural Reserve. Indulge in a soothing massage and then head to sister restaurant Boon Eat + Drink for a delightful farm-to-table California dining experience. Cap your evening at the cantina next door, El Barrio, known for the best margaritas in town.
Day 2: Beach Vibes, Canopy Thrills, and Pinot Noirs
The laid-back hamlet of Monte Rio flanks both sides of the wide Russian River, connected by a historic bridge. Tourists have flocked here since the 1870s when train service began delivering vacationing San Franciscans directly to the heart of the town. Look for the vibrant 1950s-style neon sign that reads, “Welcome to Monte Rio, Vacation Wonderland.”
Morning:
The town’s Monte Rio Community Beach offers a sun-splashed oasis along the calm waters of the Russian River. Rent a canoe, kayak, or paddleboard on-site, take a refreshing dip, or simply bask in the sun at this unique riverbank beach.
For adventurous travelers, head 250 feet into the treetops: Sonoma Canopy Tours offers two hours of exhilarating ziplining through the coast redwood forest, where you can zip up to 40 miles per hour over seven lines and cross two sky bridges, providing breathtaking views of the majestic redwoods.
Afternoon:
After your adrenaline rush, unwind with a glass of velvety Pinot Noir at the appointment-only Square Peg Estate Vineyard. Nestled in one of the finest sections of the Russian River Valley, the winery produces traditional Burgundian-style Pinot Noirs. Make a reservation for a private seated tasting by calling ahead or booking online, where you’ll savor a flight of five Vineyard Designate and Estate Wines. The tasting fee is $25, refundable with a minimum purchase of two or more bottles per person.
Evening:
Spend the night in Occidental, where its stroll-worthy, two-block-long Main Street is dotted with charming boutiques, art galleries, and tasting rooms. Walk-ins are welcome at Boheme Wines Tasting Room, where you can explore Syrah, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay wines from the Sonoma Coast and Santa Lucia Highlands. The town is renowned for its Italian fare: Negri’s Italian Dinners & Joe’s Bar has been delighting patrons with Italian classics, featuring house-made pasta and pizza since 1943. Opt for a romantic stay at The Inn at Occidental, or choose a more rustic experience at Shanti, a working farm offering on-site cottages, campsites, and even a yurt.
Day 3: Sip and Spa
With its population of only 32, Freestone is the smallest hamlet on the highway, featuring a quaint half-mile-long Main Street.
Morning:
Kick off your day at Wild Flour Bread, which opens daily at 8 am, serving four types of freshly baked breads: sticky bun, cheese fougasse, goat flatbread, and either The Bohemian (apricot, orange, and pecan) or The Egyptian (pear, fig, and candied ginger), all baked in a wood-fired oven. Arrive early; these loaves tend to sell out quickly. Grab a loaf to go and visit Freestone Artisan Cheese for an impressive selection of artisan cheese, alongside nuts, honey, jams, olive oils, and other locally sourced gourmet items.
Nothing complements a loaf of bread better than a glass of wine. Experience acclaimed wines at Freeman Vineyard and Winery, known for their soulful Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. Join the winemaking team for a vineyard tour, then enjoy a one-on-one tasting in the winery’s cave. All visits are by appointment only, so remember to call ahead or book online.
Afternoon:
Conclude your trip in tranquility at the Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary, set on five secluded acres of creekside property with five distinct Japanese garden areas. Treat yourself to an outdoor massage in a private pagoda, float restfully in swinging cloud beds, participate in a soothing tea ceremony in a serene Japanese tea garden, and indulge in a rejuvenating cedar enzyme bath, a unique heat treatment originating from Japan.
Evening:
Five miles south of Freestone, the historic Valley Ford Hotel has welcomed visitors since its opening in 1864. The hotel’s onsite restaurant and bar, Rocker Oysterfeller’s Kitchen + Saloon, serves farm-to-table soul food and handcrafted cocktails from Thursday through Sunday.
