The trip my girlfriend, Frances, and I took to southern Portugal at the tail end of September was a compromise. Previously, we’d either been to Italy (where my folks have a place) or France (where hers do). Both of us thought it was time to go somewhere where neither was the local expert, but that would mean budgeting more carefully than usual.
The plan was to stay somewhere fairly remote and quiet close to the coast, enjoy the sunshine and food, and do some gentle exploring, mainly based around wildlife-watching. The following spending diary covers the first four days of a longer holiday.
Pre-trip Spending
Flights: €162 return from London Gatwick to Faro with easyJet.
Accommodation: €150 (my half of five nights). We wanted to get an AirBnB so we could mostly self-cater with the odd meal out. After weeks of diligent research, Frances settled on the “Tiny House”, a mini wooden cabin deep in the countryside outside the town of Silves. It was the perfect size for our needs, as the good weather allowed us to enjoy the outdoors.
Car hire: €90 for 5 days (€18 per day). I had arranged a car before we left using an online deal, but took out more insurance at the desk due to concerns about driving on unmade roads. We also paid €8 in tolls.
Total: €410
On the Ground
Monday
Total: €18.37
11.30am: We arrived, noting with pleasure how warm and sunny it was, and drove to Silves around lunchtime. We parked for free on a side street. The town, once the capital of Moorish Portugal, is quaint and hilly with charming whitewashed buildings and stork nests.
1pm: We got some lunch, which included a toasted cheese and ham sandwich (€4.50) and a beer (accidentally free), followed by a visit to the castle at the top of town (€2.80), boasting restored Moorish outer walls. Our next stop was Lidl where we stocked up on supplies for the week including butter, bread, fruit, and snacks. My share of the shopping came to €11.07.
4pm: We followed the lengthy driving directions to Tiny House, which lies at the end of some winding unmade roads. Once settled, we enjoyed a pastel de nata and a beer before winding down for the evening.
Tuesday
Total: €34.90
10am: After a breakfast of bread and jam, we sought out a nature reserve we’d read about. The Quinta da Rocha, an area of wetlands next to the Alvor River, offered views of flamingos, egrets, and storks, rewarding our journey despite being tricky to locate.
1pm: For lunch in the resort of Alvor, I had grilled golden bream with salad and potatoes (€13.50) and a large beer (€3.50). After some ice cream from a local shop, we headed back.
Wednesday
Total: €10.35
11am: After a pre-bought breakfast, we visited the beach at Praia da Marinha, parking for free at the cliffs. Being close to the end of the season, the beach was relatively uncrowded. I enjoyed the picturesque views while Frances swam.
1pm: We had sandwiches on the beach and then walked along the cliffs, admiring the rock formations, especially Benagil.
Thursday
Total: €32.25
6pm: After a relaxing day, we went into town for a drink at Café Ingles, followed by dinner at Rui, which specializes in seafood.
8pm: We enjoyed a lovely meal featuring baked cod and sole, concluding the evening with a delightful dessert.
Friday
Total: €66.80
7.30am: One activity both of us were eager to do was dolphin watching. The port of Lagos, about a 20-minute drive away, is a hub for these tours. We arrived early and booked our trip at a local kiosk for €40.
11.30am: Upon boarding the boat, we braved the chilly wind but soon warmed up, especially when encountering a pod of dolphins. Their playful antics made for an unforgettable experience, and we snapped countless photos.
2pm: After the tour, we enjoyed lunch at M. Rest. & Grill, savoring piri piri chicken. We had finally mustered the courage to decline the couvert.
The final tally:
€162.67 + flights (€162) + accommodation (€150) + car rental and tolls (€98) = €572.67
