When it comes to lesser-known central Portugal, it’s all about living the good life. Laid back, delightfully undeveloped, and full of things to see and do, this is easy-going Portugal at its best. Whether you’re looking to extend your trip after visiting Lisbon, or just sample something different, here’s a taste of what’s on offer, all around an hour’s drive from the capital.
It’s a Surfer’s Paradise
Portugal’s west is defined by the crashing waves of the mighty Atlantic Ocean. It’s created a rough and tough coastline that heralds the western edge of mainland Europe, lined with steep limestone cliffs and wide-open beaches, dotted with brilliant white villages.
In the central region, there’s an internationally-renowned stretch of wild water worshipped by surfers who return time and again, determined to conquer record-breaking waves. Scenes from Praia do Norte in Nazaré are famous the world over, while the annual Rip Curl Pro Portugal surf competition, which takes place at Supertubos outside of the peninsula town of Peniche 100km north of Lisbon, attracts only the best and bravest.
Fortunately, there are plenty of ways for novices to give surfing a go here, too. Countless surf schools can be found throughout the region. For a unique stay combining eco-elegance and passionate surf instructors, consider checking into the super-cool Noah Surf House. If surfing isn’t for you, options like stand-up paddleboarding, yoga, and healthy living are encouraged, along with enjoying a sundowner on the terrace by the fire pit.
Visit Literary Heaven
Óbidos, around 87km north of Lisbon, ticks every box in the pretty historic town category. Whitewashed houses draped in bright bougainvillea flank cobbled streets that lead up to a 13th-century castle, all tightly wrapped in medieval walls. Adding an extra feather (or should that be quill) to its cap, Óbidos is also a City of Literature, one of only 28 in the world bestowed with the title by Unesco.
While popular, it’s romantic to the core with no fewer than 12 bookshops. Don’t miss the Livraria de Santiago bookstore inside the Church of St James or the Biological Market, a perfect blend of fresh produce and tempting reads in various languages. Browse your way around the town before indulging in a snifter of ginja – a potent Portuguese liqueur often served in mini chocolate cups but just as good in a glass.
Whether you’re staying or passing through, make sure to check out The Literary Man, a hotel with a rustic collection of boutique rooms and a seriously good restaurant filled with classic and contemporary publications. It serves fantastic food, from a deliciously simple octopus carpaccio to prawns that are tangy perfection, ensuring a sophisticated yet relaxed dining experience.
In true Portuguese style, Óbidos loves a celebration: go in May for the tasty International Chocolate Festival, July for the elaborate Medieval Fair, and October for the Folio Literature Festival.
Pick a Ceramic Trail
Leafy Caldas da Rainha is somewhat overshadowed by neighbouring Óbidos. Although only about 10km away, many whizz past without stopping to discover the history and culture of this small, colourful city.
Founded on hot, sulphurous springs in 1484, Caldas da Rainha is home to the world’s first purpose-built thermal hospital. The pungent springs still flow today, and the hospital doors are open so you can buy a ticket for a peek at the thermal baths that gave this city life.
While wellness is firmly at its heart, Caldas da Rainha is also known for its ceramics, with one man in particular to thank for his clay legacy. Rafael Bordallo Pinheiro was, among other things, a 19th-century sculptor renowned for his attention to detail, leaving his influence all around the town.
Today, the Rota Bordallo honours him with an easy-to-navigate trail showcasing ceramic street art, including beautiful tilework and stunning wildlife. Be sure to pick up a map at the centrally-located tourist office. Top tip: look up. Many of the glazed ceramics can be found slithering up walls or hanging from trees – Monkey Village in the corner of Dom Carlos I Park is a highlight.
If you’re particularly interested, this route is just one of a number of dedicated ceramic trails throughout the central region.
Enjoy the Great Outdoors
Shifting sand dunes, fragrant pine trees, and windmill-studded hillsides combine to create a natural, albeit wind-whipped, slice of the Iberian Peninsula loved by adventurers. Whether you’re wowed by invigorating sea air, rocky peninsulas, or mountainous trails, you’ll be itching to explore.
Luckily, there are numerous options for outdoor adventures, including water sports, hiking, cycling, and sailing. Explore the region’s natural parks, such as the archipelago of Berlengas, a marine reserve off the coast of Peniche where you can expect to see various migratory and resident seabirds.
There’s also Foz do Arelho, located 15km northeast of Óbidos, where a clever boardwalk allows you to traverse the dunes without harming the delicate ecosystem. Its shores are lapped by the waters of the Óbidos Lagoon, cherished by local fishermen, kitesurfers, and flamingos alike. Take to the water with InterTidal for a breezy sunset excursion to remember.
Indulge in Local Produce
With the giant larder of the Atlantic Ocean, seasonal fruits and vegetables, tangy sheep and goat’s cheese, and a never-ending supply of sweet treats, you’re in for a flavoursome feast in the central region. Seafood certainly dominates: whole grilled fish served with roasted vegetables is found widely, alongside rich fish soup and clams sizzling in garlic, showcasing the Portuguese specialty of cod prepared in various delicious ways.
Furthermore, you’ll quickly spot the rolling stripes of vineyards. Although not new to the area, wine production here has been refined over the last few decades. There’s a tipple perfect for everyone, thanks to established award-winning estates like Quinta do Gradil and innovative newcomers like Quinta Varzea da Pedra.
As is typical for this region, wine tours are laid-back and informal. Stop by places like Quinta do Gradil for a short tour of its winery, followed by a suitably paired meal in its excellent restaurant. For a more immersive experience, visit in September to partake in the grape harvest – bare-foot grape treading is mandatory!
