Explore the Dogu Express: A Scenic Journey Across Turkey

Turkish Instagrammers love the Dogu – or Eastern – Express, running almost a thousand miles from the east to the west of Turkey. However, this journey is not just for social media fans; it offers spectacular views from the capital city of Ankara through the rocky wilds of Anatolia to the city of Kars, from which it is a short drive to the ancient ruins of Ani on the Armenian border. The train provides planned stops with excursions, comfortable seating, and over 30 hours to admire the remarkable scenery.

Ankara

The journey begins in Ankara, Turkey’s second-largest city. Departing around 5 PM, this vibrant city features notable museums, mosques, and a castle. Additionally, Ankara is home to the tomb of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, who made it the capital in 1923. After exploring, head to the renovated train station, where a few trains depart daily.

From your cosy cabin equipped with a fridge, sink, and two seats, enjoy watching Ankara fade into the distance as the rocky countryside unfolds. You can dine in the dining car or bring along a picnic. As evening approaches, you can fold down your bunk bed and prepare for a peaceful night’s sleep, arriving at the small village of İliç at 7 AM.

Karanlık Canyon

A short drive from İliç takes you to Karanlık, or “Dark,” Canyon—a spectacular and eerily quiet gorge where birds of prey soar above. Explore the tranquil Euphrates River by motorboat, and then journey onward to picturesque Kemaliye. Enjoy the views across the valley and stroll down a charming road lined with poetry to the village. Here, among beautiful alpine wooden chalets, taste the local sweet almond dish and sip tea in an authentic Turkish tearoom before returning to the train.

Erzincan

The Dogu Express climbs nearly 1000 meters during the journey, which becomes apparent during the lunch stop in Erzincan, surrounded by distant snow-capped mountains. The city has struggled to recover from a significant earthquake in 1939. Consider a drive around the area to see Girlevik waterfalls cascading through the woods, and visit the ruins of a church near Altıntepe castle, notable for its well-preserved Byzantine mosaics from the 6th century. After exploring, you can get back on the train for the afternoon journey.

Erzurum

The evening stop at Erzurum is situated 500 meters higher than Erzincan. The train station is conveniently located in the bustling town center. A self-guided tour reveals architectural gems, including the twin-towered Çifte Minareli Medrese, built as a theological college in the 1200s, adjacent to the grand Ulu Mosque. Additionally, the Yakutiye Medresesi, now a museum, and the Kalesi citadel offers stunning views. After a long day, indulge in a delicious local cağ kebab—horizontally turned lamb—at Koç Cağ Kebap, just a five-minute walk from the train station.

Kars

The train arrives in Kars shortly after midnight. Therefore, it is advisable to have accommodation arranged in advance. The town itself features a grid-like layout influenced by Russian architecture, with animal statues serving as helpful markers. Dominating the landscape is Kars Castle, perched on a hill. Visitors will also find striking dark stone buildings from the Russian era, including government offices and the luxurious Hotel Katerina Sarayi, originally built as a palace by Tsar Nicholas II. Kars has a rich history, having been occupied by the Russians in the 1800s and regained after World War I, making it a fascinating destination to explore.

Ani

Located less than an hour’s drive from Kars are the stunning ruins of Ani, once the capital of Armenian civilization a millennium ago and one of the largest cities globally. Transport to Ani or local tours are readily available. Surrounded by towering walls on one side and a deep gully on the other, visitors can admire several well-preserved churches and take in sweeping views into Armenia. In Western Europe, Ani would be a bustling tourist hot spot, but here you can explore almost in solitude. After your visit, you have the option to drive back to Kars or enjoy a local Kurdish meal of goose in the nearby village of Ölçülü.

Make it Happen

“Tourist” train tickets cost 480₺ for a single journey, with discounts for pairs. Tickets are available for purchase online. A cheaper alternative exists for 58₺; however, this option does not make stops. The tourist train operates three times weekly—on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays—departing just before 5 PM and arriving around midnight the following day, though it is often slightly delayed. The regular train leaves daily at 6 PM and completes the journey in 24 hours. Excursions at the three main stops cost an additional 75₺ and can be booked on board. If you choose to leave the train, it is essential to return promptly to avoid missing it, as it may depart without you. The route is subject to change, so it’s wise to check beforehand.

Make sure to bring drinking water and an evening meal, as food options are limited on the train. Additionally, pack clothes suitable for both day and night, and be sure to have cash for purchases at various stops. Note that alcohol and personal food are not permitted in the main dining car but can be consumed in your cabin and the front carriage.

To reach Ankara from Istanbul, high-speed trains take approximately four hours and operate four times daily, with convenient bus options also available. Not far from Ankara lies Cappadocia, renowned for its breathtaking hot air balloon rides. You can either take the return train journey from Kars, fly back to Istanbul, or continue your travels onward. There are plans to extend the train route to Tbilisi in Georgia and Baku in Azerbaijan, although these developments have been delayed.