Exploring Lille, France: A Traveler’s Guide

Living in London, I’ve made several trips to Paris over the years, and every time I go I fall back in love with its iconic sights, delectable cuisine, and world-class culture. However, like many other cities in Europe, Paris is feeling the strain of overtourism. Therefore, my latest jaunt to northern France led me to the beautiful yet underrated city of Lille.

Getting to Lille

This former industrial powerhouse is located at France’s northern tip, close to Belgium. Moreover, it is France’s fourth biggest urban area and once a centre of the country’s textile trade. These days, Lille has never been hotter, renowned for its handsome architecture, fabulous art museums, and upscale shopping. I hopped over on a sunny Friday morning on the Eurostar. The journey from London to Lille is a cinch, taking only 1½ hours—far quicker than to Paris—and you arrive right in the city centre at Gare Lille-Europe, with no need to navigate a metro journey afterwards.

Where to Sightsee

Lille is blessed with numerous sights, with the number one attraction being the Palais des Beaux Arts, which boasts France’s second-largest fine arts collection after the Louvre, and with far fewer crowds. East of central Lille, you’ll find the LaM, a modern art museum and sculpture park. My personal favorite was La Piscine in nearby Roubaix, an art deco swimming pool complex that has been stunningly converted into a repository for fine arts, textiles, and fashion. I’ve never seen a more memorable arts space than this former Olympic pool, still filled with water, and lined with sculptures illuminated by magnificent stained glass windows that symbolize the rising and setting sun.

Where to Eat

While in Lille, it’s essential to try an estaminet, a traditional Flemish eatery characterized by antique objects on the walls and plain wooden tables. These establishments offer a fascinating contrast to classic French cuisine. One standout is La Ducasse, featuring a dark wood interior and a red-and-white tiled floor. Here, I sampled local dishes such as carbonnade (braised beef slow-cooked with beer, onions, brown sugar, and gingerbread), potjevleesh (jellied chicken and rabbit served cold), and Welsh (Lille’s take on Welsh rarebit with toast and ham smothered in melted cheese). Moreover, don’t miss Meert, an opulent tearoom famous for serving the best gaufres (waffles) in town.

Where to Drink

Few places do beer better than Lille, with the region’s brews readily accessible across the city. You should try the three-storey La Capsule, which boasts 28 craft varieties on tap and over 100 by the bottle. Alternatively, head to rue Royale for classy haunts like L’Illustration Café, a relaxing spot favored by local creatives. Bars along rue Masséna and rue Solférino offer a livelier, more student-friendly atmosphere.

Where to Stay

Finding good-value accommodation in Lille is much easier than in Paris. I spent my nights at Mama Shelter Lille, part of a fun chain of hotels known for their warm and inviting atmosphere. The hotel’s architecture resembles a huge ark on stilts and once inside, the welcoming staff continue the warm experience. The decor is delightfully eccentric, featuring clashing prints and colors, as well as unique touches like a carpet adorned with mussel motifs, a nod to one of the city’s signature dishes. There’s a focus on fun here, with table football and arcade machines peppered throughout the property, while the sun-drenched terrace and stylish, pillow-filled lounge serve as perfect spots to unwind.

My room presented a stunning view over the city skyline, merging comfort with playful elements such as plastic animal masks on the light fixtures, and eco-friendly bathroom products with humorous slogans. The hotel’s food was exceptional, especially the Sunday brunch from noon to 4 PM, featuring an expansive hot and cold buffet filled with everything from cured meats and cheeses to salads, pasta dishes, and decadent desserts.

Options abound for all budgets, from hostel accommodations at the Auberge de Jeunesse to lavish historic properties like L’Hermitage Gantois. Moreover, at most hotels, room rates typically decrease at weekends and during French school holidays.

Tom traveled to Lille with support from Mama Shelter Lille and Eurostar. GoTravelDaily contributors adhere to a policy of not accepting freebies in exchange for positive coverage.