Exploring the Algarve: A Hidden Gem in Portugal

I’ve always loved travel in Portugal, whether it was the tumbledown charm and boozy visits to the wineries of Porto, drinks at viewpoints and guzzling pasteis de nata in Lisbon, or striding out in awe over the bubbling volcanic landscape of the Azores. However, I’d never had much fascination with the Algarve: I assumed the region would be all crowded beaches, modern buildings, and overdeveloped resorts. Consequently, when I finally visited the region, its natural beauty, delicious cuisine, and fabulous array of outdoor activities took me completely by surprise.

Faro and the Fonte da Benémola Trail

I flew into the region’s capital, Faro. Although I only made a quick stop, I’d recommend spending more time here as this small city, with its timeless walled old town, rewards exploration. I checked out the architectural hodgepodge of the cathedral and the creepy yet mesmerizing Capela dos Ossos, fashioned from the bones and skulls of monks.

I met wonderful guide Diana from operator Portugal4U, and we drove inland to discover the Fonte da Benémola Trail near Loulé. Diana is super-friendly and has a wealth of knowledge about the Algarve, making her great company on this circular walk through verdant rolling farmland, the route teeming with birdlife and fragrant thyme and lavender.

Lagos and Ponta da Piedade

Next, I headed west through the hilly countryside of Algarve’s interior before winding down to the picturesque town of Lagos, which charms with a combination of meandering lanes, 16th-century walls, and squares full of gorgeous tiled houses. I’d recommend dining at Don Sebastião, which serves exemplary seafood in a rustic dining room, with the highlight being a huge underground wine cellar for tours by prior arrangement.

I made a detour to the Ponta da Piedade headland just south of Lagos, which stands as the most famous symbol of the Algarve. Its extraordinary kaleidoscope of golden sandstone cliffs and sea stacks lapped by warm turquoise waters is breathtaking.

Dolphin Spotting in Sagres

As I ventured further west from Faro, I found the resorts becoming less built-up, allowing for greater appreciation of the unspoiled and rugged beauty of the Algarve. The thrilling journey concludes at Sagres, the last town before Europe’s southwesternmost point. Sagres presents itself as a relaxed surfer town, harmonizing with its windswept, dramatic natural setting, surrounded by high cliffs and beautiful sandy beaches.

After checking in to the modern nautical-themed hotel Memmo Baleeira, I embarked on my first activity: a dolphin-spotting boat trip with the fantastic outfit Mar Ilimitado. The exhilarating ride in a speedy RIB vessel added to the fun as we sped past fishermen on the cliffs and out into the expansive Atlantic.

Once far out to sea, our search for marine life began. The passion and respect of the biologists for these majestic animals was evident. Initially encountering a pod of dolphins that didn’t interact, we continued our search. Eventually, we spotted another pod that was sociable and approached us, playfully swimming under and around our boat. Remarkably, estimates suggested there might have been around 100 dolphins in the pod, creating a rare and spectacular experience in the open ocean.

Surf’s Up

Having never surfed before, I couldn’t miss the opportunity for a surfing lesson the next day. The instructors at Freeride were fantastic, guiding us through essential rules, gear setups, and safety measures before letting us tackle the waves under close supervision. Although I was initially hopeless, after a couple of hours, I managed to ride a wave on my board (even if only for a few seconds) before spectacularly wiping out. Indeed, my body, unaccustomed to the ocean’s assault, felt incredibly sore for days afterward, yet it was well worth it.

Exploring the Sagres Coastline

Following a leisurely seafood lunch with stunning views over the marina and bay from the sun-drenched terrace at A Tasca, I then walked the clifftop coastal path to the Fortaleza de Sagres, a sprawling fortress site perched precariously on the edge of this spectacular coastline.

Later that evening, I made my way to the Cabo de São Vicente, Europe’s final frontier. This spot offers a perfect viewing point to witness the enormous sunset sinking into the Atlantic while the wind ravages the area, prompting deep contemplation of the wild splendor found in this corner of Portugal.