A beautiful exploration of Iwate Prefecture’s scenic landscapes, unique cuisine, and traditional craftsmanship awaits any traveler willing to venture north.
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A stunning natural landscape featuring mountains, dramatic coastlines, and a rich cultural heritage of traditional crafts and regional cuisine, including a noodle challenge, makes Iwate Prefecture a noteworthy destination to consider within a broader Japan itinerary.
Furthermore, visitors to this relatively obscure part of Tōhoku will experience a refreshing absence of large tourist crowds.
The Great Outdoors
Characterized by one of Japan’s lowest population densities, Iwate Prefecture is marked by its remarkable natural landscapes. The region boasts mountain ranges, deep gorges, beech forests, as well as volcanic peaks and caldera lakes, making it an ideal locale for hiking, soaking in onsen, and escaping from the hustle and bustle of urban life. In winter, the area transforms into a picturesque snow-covered landscape, where smaller skiing resorts, such as Hachimantai at the base of Mt. Iwate-san, attract relatively few international visitors.
Along the eastern coastline lies the remarkable Sanriku Kaigan (Sanriku Coast), which stretches approximately 220 kilometers through three prefectures. Here, one can witness sheer cliffs and jagged ria formations alongside the expansive Pacific Ocean, with the Kitayamazaki Cliffs in the northern part of Iwate serving as just one of its scenic highlights. The Sanriku Kaigan region is perfect for a road trip; however, for a more in-depth experience, consider traversing part of the Michinoku Coastal Trail. This network of trails meanders through a variety of landscapes, including sandy beaches, wooded areas, steep cliffs, and rural hills, connecting small towns along the journey.
Oodles of Noodles
Iwate is renowned for the wanko-soba challenge, where diners must see how many small servings of noodles they can consume in one sitting. This tradition, dating back 300 years, can be experienced at the atmospheric restaurant Azumaya in Morioka, where servers are poised to refill diners’ bowls the moment they are emptied. Participants who can manage to consume 100 bowlfuls—a feat surprisingly common—are rewarded with a commemorative plaque.
For a less competitive noodle option, the local specialty known as Morioka reimen should not be overlooked. This dish consists of firm, chewy noodles served in a chilled broth, typically garnished with a boiled egg, vegetables, and kimchi—highlighting its Korean culinary influences.
However, the culinary offerings extend beyond noodles. With an extensive coastline, Iwate provides an abundant supply of fresh seafood, while its fertile farmlands contribute to high-quality beef and some of Japan’s finest dairy products (notably, Koiwai farm cookies and cakes). Additionally, visitors may discover unique eateries such as L’auréole, which is located on a secluded cliffside and offers French-inspired cuisine prepared with local ingredients.
Traditional Crafts
Japan’s northern region is rich in traditional crafts, with artisans preserving techniques developed over centuries. Among these, Iwate’s most notable contribution is Nambu Tekki (Nambu Ironware), a craft believed to have a history exceeding 400 years. At Iwachu ironworks near Morioka, visitors can witness skilled craftspeople engaged in the intricate process of casting and detailing iron. Following the demonstration, they can peruse an impressive array of finely crafted ironware items, ranging from traditional and contemporary teapots to wind chimes and candle holders. Note that it is advisable to carry your passport to receive a tax refund on purchases exceeding ¥5000. Nambu Tekki products are also available at Morioka Handiworks Square, which showcases several workshops dedicated to various crafts from the region, offering opportunities to try crafting your own items.
Heritage and History
For those seeking the tranquil ambiance of traditional temples and serene gardens, Iwate has that to offer as well. Hiraizumi, once a feudal town, features the forested temple complex of Chūson-ji, a designated World Heritage Site. Its highlight is the 12th-century Konjiki-dō, an intricately gilded pavilion (which is preserved behind glass), housing the remains of three generations of the Ōshu Fujiwara clan, once the rulers of the region. Nearby, the Mōtsū-ji garden, dating back to the 12th century, features a large pond and is one of the few remaining examples of Pure Land Buddhist gardens in Japan, designed to evoke the paradise that devotees aspired to reach.
Approximately 80 kilometers northeast and a few hundred years more recent than the sites in Hiraizumi, Tono Furusato Village presents a glimpse into rural life during the Edo period (1603–1868). This open-air museum features various thatched-roof houses relocated from around the region, nestled on verdant grounds surrounded by hills. Visitors can explore these homes, where historical household items and tools are exhibited, and perhaps find a crackling open hearth.
Crowd-Free, Feel-Good Travel
While Iwate may lack the high-profile attractions of Tokyo and Kyoto, it compensates with its tranquil ambiance and the absence of large crowds, which contribute to its distinctive charm. This region is home to numerous warm and resilient communities that continue to recover and revitalize following the catastrophic earthquake and tsunami of 2011. Iwate offers an opportunity for leisurely travel: consider a road trip through the mountains, a stay at an onsen hotel, or a scenic train ride along the coast. Although off the beaten path, accessibility remains consistent—visitors can reach this area via the shinkansen (bullet train).
Make It Happen
- When to Go: Each season possesses its allure, with autumn colors being particularly stunning, while spring is favored for cherry blossoms. Although winter snowfall can impede travel, it provides an enchanting scenic backdrop. Rugby enthusiasts may wish to visit Kamaishi during the Rugby World Cup 2019, with two matches scheduled at the newly constructed Kamaishi Recovery Memorial Stadium (25 September and 13 October).
- Getting There: The journey to Morioka, the capital of Iwate Prefecture, takes approximately 2.5 hours via shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo.
- Getting Around: Renting a car is the most effective means of transport; however, local trains, such as the scenic Riasu line hugging the Sanriku coast, present an attractive alternative, offering a picturesque 160-kilometer journey along the Pacific Ocean.
