Exploring Andalucia: A Traveler’s Guide
Majestic, inspiring and somewhat mysterious, the region of Andalucia’s rich history is ever-present today. Easy-to-drive highways link towns nestled in otherworldly terrain, passing by vibrant fields of sunflowers and mammoth wind turbines along the way. There are open-air flamenco performances to get your heart racing, a food scene to rival all others in Europe, and the Costa del Sol’s beaches to rejuvenate at. You couldn’t ask for anything more.
Malaga – History, Regality and the Sea
The seaside city of Malaga is very accessible from other European countries. It marks the start of the Costa del Sol, a stretch of coast known as the ‘coast of the sun’. Here, you should get your pincers on some pescado frito (fried seafood) and eat on the seashore. It’s a glorious place to be in summer – particularly while strolling through central Malaga’s regal streets, which are luxuriously paved with marble and stone.
We arrived on 23 June, the day of San Juan (St John). The people of Malaga had united in the city centre’s streets, following men strenuously carrying a shrine of the saint, moving to the beat of a massive marching band. Religious devotion is strong in this part of the country, and whether you’re a believer or not, it’s beautiful to witness the community coming together.
If you want to see this devotion in another form and treat yourself to rooftop city views at the Catedral de Malaga, it’s a marking of the Catholic Reconquest. The cathedral has never been finished due to a lack of funding, leading to its colloquial name ‘La Manquita’ – the one-armed woman.
Climb up a winding concrete staircase of 200 steps for panoramic views of the city, capturing the Castle of Gibralfaro and the deep blue backdrop of the Alboran Sea.
Ahead to Ronda – Home to a Must-See Architectural Feat
Ronda’s Puente Nuevo bridge is one of the most magnificent architectural accomplishments you will encounter. It is an impressive sight that plunges 120 metres deep into the El Tajo gorge. The final bridge that stands proudly today is the result of two construction phases; the first bridge was built using a single arch design and collapsed, tragically claiming 50 lives.
A great place to view the bridge is from the Jardines de Cuenca, a collection of gardens that cascade down the opposing cliff face into the gorge. Walking down past flower beds, cypress, and palm trees affords stunning views of the bridge and the alluring medieval buildings surrounding it.
Walking up and down Ronda’s steep streets works up quite an appetite. There’s no better place to gain energy than the tabernas in town – grab a seat, enjoy a glass of Andalucian wine or sherry, and sample some tapas.
Upping the Altitude in Arcos de la Frontera
This pueblo blanco (white village) is a total charmer. Perched atop a rugged limestone ridge, Arcos de la Frontera transports you back in time, boasting streets that have hardly changed since the 17th century.
The town goes by a simple color palette, with most residences painted stark white and adorned with yellow window frames. Outdoor bars and eateries invite friends and families to relax and enjoy good wine, good food, and good times together.
After reaching the Castillo de los Duques (the fortress overlooking the town), seek out traditional sweets made by cloistered nuns. Locals and visitors alike gather at the Convent de las Mercedarias to purchase these heavenly treats.
The process is both entertaining and adventurous. You simply ask locals when the convent will be selling sweets, head to the convent door at the designated time, and knock. When the door opens, you’ll need to approach a counter with a wooden turntable to place your order. Basic Spanish is required as visitors cannot see the nuns when ordering. The fun part? Payment goes through the turntable, allowing for a delightful exchange of sweets like magdalenas, almond biscuits, and sweet pumpkin-stuffed empanadillas.
Sensational Seville – A City of Passion and the Arts
It’s easy to see why travelers adore Seville. Monuments like the Metropol Parasol make it a pleasure to explore. The landmark, nicknamed Las Setas (The Mushrooms), features a colossal structure topped by a walkway that offers views of the entire city. For only €3 (redeemable on a drink downstairs), it’s a must-do.
In warmer months, breathe in the vibrant atmosphere where flamenco performances light up the streets. You’ll witness not only professionals dancing in their bold and vibrant outfits but also regular people dancing socially, seamlessly rotating through various partners.
This element of social interaction, which is so richly ingrained in Seville, speaks volumes about the city’s culture and community connection. We were mesmerized for 30 minutes watching one group dance, making it tough to leave.
Cordoba – The Quieter of the Spanish Cousins
Cordoba offers a slower pace, with a more relaxed atmosphere. It might not attract as many tourists as Spain’s larger cities, yet it’s worth a visit, particularly for the Mezquita. This mosque-turned-cathedral retains its past in a fascinating manner.
Upon entering the Mezquita, you’ll encounter arches of white and red stripes that guide you through history. As you proceed deeper, you find a white marble Catholic cathedral with pews, while the Moorish past remains visible behind you. Visiting the Mezquita offers a unique experience that is truly unforgettable.
Before departing Cordoba, indulge in two must-try dishes: flamenquin, a delectable fried pork roulade, and salmorejo, a cold tomato soup that locals often liken to gazpacho, garnished with jamon and egg.
The Alhambra Awaits in Granada
Wrapping up an Andalucian journey in Granada could be the best way to say adios. The city is nestled in the dramatic foothills of the Sierra Nevada. Following colonization by the Romans and later the Moors, Granada became the final Muslim city to fall to the Christians in the late 1400s.
Granada’s grandest attraction is what crowns it – the Alhambra, the splendid palace of the old Moorish kings. It is an icon of Nasrid architecture, showcasing intricately patterned stonework, colorful tiles, elegant colonnades, cloistered courts, and beautifully manicured gardens filled with fountains.
As one of Spain’s most visited attractions, ensure you secure your entrance ticket well in advance to avoid disappointment.
Tips for Your Road Trip
Travelers from non-EU countries need an international driver’s permit to drive in Spain. The legal driving age in Spain is 18; those under this age cannot drive, even with a home license.
Andalucia’s highways offer a pleasurable driving experience, equipped with regular service stations and restaurants.
Parking in cities like Granada, Malaga, and Seville can be challenging due to winding one-way roads. Simply searching for parking can take considerable time, so consider using parking lots scattered around city centers. A helpful tip: siesta time means free parking in many locations.
