When researching a trip to Porto, you’ll likely have a checklist of must-see attractions: Livraria Lello, the Café Majestic, and Palácio da Bolsa, to name a few. While each of these attractions holds merit, the true heartbeat of Porto is more palpable away from the holiday crowds. Its character seeps from the history-soaked buildings, echoing the highs and lows played out over centuries.
Whether you’re a return visitor to Porto or simply cringe at the thought of spending your vacation in a queue, put on your best exploring shoes and get ready to discover Porto’s less-trodden paths.
Get to the Heart of Porto’s Northern Delights
On any trip to Porto, you’ll inevitably visit the city’s central square, Praça da Liberdade, which is highlighted by a statue of King Pedro IV of Portugal and the first emperor of Brazil. The scene at the base of the statue illustrates the gifting of Pedro’s heart to Porto; despite his Lisbon birth and overseas assignment, this is where the monarch claimed his heart belonged. Few travelers trek uptown to the Igreja da Lapa, the church where Pedro’s heart actually lies. Visiting offers the chance not only to appreciate a historic gesture but also to discover traditional neighborhoods in Porto’s north.
In the vicinity of the church on Rua do Bonjardim, you can sample chacuti (Goan curry) at Portugandhi (Goa is a former Portuguese colony), and enjoy freshly baked pastries with locals at O Fumeiro bakery. Cross the road to the shady Praça do Marquês de Pombal and you’ll see elderly gentlemen gathering to play cards.
Uncover Art in the East
One of the most underrated areas of Porto lies in the city’s east, towards the Bonfim neighborhood. From Praça da Liberdade, you can head uphill to Batalha via the steps behind the São Bento Train Station (following Rua da Madeira). It’s a solid workout, but the walls en route showcase the works of eminent street artists like Costah, Hazul, and Godmess. You’ll pop out near the no-frills Cervejaria Gazela, which is a local favorite for small, crispy Portuguese hotdogs called cachorrinhos. This is where the late celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain was spotted on his final trip to Porto—a city he deeply cherished.
From here, it’s a five-minute walk to the charming park Jardim de Marquês de Oliveira, popularly known as Jardim de São Lázaro. This is another place to find loyal groups of card-playing residents and is close to Mesa 325, one of Porto’s best cafes for creamy cappuccinos.
A Peaceful Corner of Porto
Past the park, the city vibe shifts as you enter the serene, tree-lined Avenida de Rodrigues de Freitas, where paved streets intersect neat rows of tiled houses. Just before reaching the Heroísmo metro station, you’ll encounter one of the most tranquil places in the city—the 10-hectare Cemitério do Prado Repouso. Here, magnolia, judas-tree, and camellia petals flutter amidst the tombstones of notable figures, including former mayors, physicians, actors, and writers. There’s also a monument to the victims of the 1891 revolution that occurred in Porto, marking a critical moment that sparked the republican movement in Portugal.
Authentic Impressions
Almost parallel to the cemetery is Rua de São Vítor. Take a leisurely stroll down this street to appreciate a traditional working-class area, far removed from the restored glamour of the Ribeira district. From here, navigate down the steps of Travessa São Vítor to reach Alameda das Fontainhas for an undisturbed view across the river. Take note of the decommissioned Dona Maria rail bridge to the left, built by Gustave Eiffel before he constructed his namesake tower in Paris.
West is Best for Seafaring Adventures
In contrast to the industrial grit of the east, Porto’s upscale region lies in the west, where the majestic Douro River meets the sea. The No.1 tram rattles its way to the elegant suburb of Foz. However, if you prefer to avoid the crowds, consider renting a bike from Biclas & Triclas and riding the six kilometers to the river mouth (the 500 bus from Avenida dos Aliados also runs this coastal route). In the afternoon, you can witness a breathtaking sunset framed by the magnificent Arrábida Bridge. Adventure seekers can scale it with Porto Bridge Climb.
About halfway to Foz, you’ll be drawn in by the beats emanating from a former shipbuilding warehouse transformed into an arts center called Maxmomentum, which offers live music and rotating exhibitions before heading to Bocca, a bar and restaurant boasting appealing river views.
Continuing this journey, you will find the beautiful Jardim do Passeio Alegre park, and the adjoining palm-fringed avenue, Dom Carlos I, leads directly to the beach. Porto isn’t renowned for its sandy beaches, but the waves crashing against the Farol de Felgueira lighthouse on a windy day are truly spectacular.
Coastal Traditions
At this point, you can decide to appreciate the city’s seafaring roots from the fishing hubs of Afurada or Matosinhos.
If you wish to cross the river to the quaint village of Afurada, return to the white gangplank that reads APDL to catch the small ferry Flor do Gás, which runs at approximately 15-minute intervals throughout the day and accommodates bikes. In Afurada, the streets are small, the fish is fresh, and the buildings are vibrant. This village also marks the start of a rugged coastline that can be traversed for 15 kilometers on foot or by bike to the coastal city of Espinho.
If you’d prefer to continue north, ride your bike to the local hotspot Parque da Cidade, which is the largest urban park in Portugal. The park borders Porto’s municipality of Matosinhos, best known for its street barbecues featuring freshly caught seafood.
You can see this seafood in its pre-grilled form at the Mercado de Matosinhos fish market from Monday to Saturday, conveniently located directly behind the Mercado metro stop. Be forewarned, you may also encounter flocks of caged hens amongst the fruits and vegetables available upstairs.
Dinner and a Dip
From here, you can cross the Río Leça to uncover what puts the ‘port’ in Porto at the Leixões seaport before continuing on to the chilled seaside area of Leça da Palmeira (the 507 bus stops here).
If you can splurge, consider lunch at the Michelin-starred Boa Nova Tea House—it’s hidden within an oceanfront national monument designed by famed Portuguese architect Álvaro Siza Vieira—or, for something more casual, grab a burger at Santo Burga. Along the expansive promenade, you’ll find another one of Siza’s creations at the Piscina das Marés tidal pools (Avenida da Liberdade), where you can conclude your day with a refreshing dip. And if you’re too tired to ride back to your accommodation, you can cross the bridge back to Mercado and take your bicycle on the metro, provided you enter via the rear door.
