Travel writer Mike MacEacheran stepped into the wilds of Québec just outside of Montréal to see what adventures he could find. Here’s what he discovered.
On the shores of Lac Blanc, it’s dinnertime for black bears. A sow and young cub clatter through the maple, snouts down for berries and roots. The air smells of sedge. The forest watches and waits. Ahead, a rough path disappears into the shadows as a hulking male bear bounds down, all muscle and hunger. Within moments, the mother and cub skittishly disappear, leaving only a solitary bald eagle perched in the treetops.
Many who have never come to Canada imagine the bears, yet few have the luck of catching a glimpse. Nonetheless, Québec is the country’s largest province, rich with lakes and forests, and often delivers lottery moments like this. Many descriptions of this French-Canadian territory touch on its unique cultural aspects, Unesco-worthy treasures, diverse language, and the natural beauty of taiga and tundra — with little commentary on its wolves, elk, moose, and bears.
It’s early August, the height of black bear season, and I’m on the boundaries of La Mauricie National Park, a 536 km2 enclave bordering the Saint Lawrence lowlands, a mere two-hour drive from Montréal. The evergreen belt stretches north, leading towards the Hudson Strait ice floes, about 1,600 km away. It is interlaced with rivers and tiny settlements, creating idyllic settings for fishing and hunting. Here, visitors breathe deeply, almost as if rediscovering how to connect with nature.
Life on the Lakes
My journey commences north of Saint-Didace at a cluster of cabins and a wildlife conservation camp immersed in the forest. Traditionally, visitors would come armed with buckshot for elk and fishing lines for trout, but today, most are content to catch glimpses of beavers or bears, or take a canoe paddle in crystal-clear lakes. Various outfitters, like Pourvoirie du Lac Blanc, provide options such as kayaks and rabaskas (12-person bark canoes originally used by First Nations tribes). With 664 lakes nearby and an additional 30,000 in the broader region, spending time on the water is a Québec tradition, indeed it feels like a right.
‘The lakes create an entire ecosystem for birds, beavers, and many more creatures,’ states ranger Maxime Descoteaux, as he lifts his binoculars to spot black vultures circling above. Being a member of the Atikamekw First Nations, Descoteaux’s culture is deeply intertwined with this land of water. He shares the wisdom of his ancestors during their backwoods expeditions.
‘I can smell the rain coming,’ he exclaims, looking up at the gathering clouds before leading me deeper into the spruce to a decorative deer-skin prospector’s tent, a welcome shelter for the night. The campground is adorned with elk antlers and feathered dreamcatchers, and after the rain clears, a quilt of stars reveals itself. As the air cools and a campfire glows, one might imagine the generations before, gathering and sharing stories in similar surroundings.
La Mauricie National Park from Above
The subsequent morning offers a stunning aerial view as our helicopter ascends into the sky. The sweeping lakes come into view, revealing the expansive landscapes that stretch out beneath us. Pilot Georges Pellerin expertly navigates the lighter summer skies. ‘Only God has a better view,’ he says, as we soar over the expansive terrain.
Shortly thereafter, we begin to glimpse otherwise unreachable lakes and untraversed forests, many of which may never have felt the touch of a paddle or a swimmer’s stroke. As we make our way north, our landing at Sacacomie Lake, located 25 km away near Saint-Alexis-des-Monts, feels rewarding and virtuous.
Even in the natural paradise that is La Mauricie, Sacacomie Lake holds a special charm. This area of Québec showcases nature’s grandeur and the romantic allure of Canada — with its elegant combination of bears, beavers, towering mountains, and dense fir trees. Visitors to the Sacacomie Hotel, a beautifully situated log inn, are welcomed back with moments of joy after canoeing as they gather on the terrace to enjoy a drink, with the sunset igniting the sky in vibrant colors.
The Draw of the Land
The following morning, we set out to kayak the quiet waters with boatman and avid outdoor enthusiast Bryce Pillado. The only element missing from this picturesque scene is an elk or wolf drinking at the water’s edge. Every detail sets the stage, revealing life teeming in this tranquil environment. ‘I never planned to stay this long,’ Pillado shares, cutting the engine as we approach a stunning sandy beach lined with canoes. ‘There’s an undeniable spiritual energy here — making it nearly impossible to leave.’ His passion for the outdoors ultimately led him to remain in this captivating place.
Our journey brings us to a charming, timber-framed sugar shack. While tourism is a major industry in Québec, age-old customs remain vital. Maple syrup harvesting is one such monumental tradition — surrounding us are 13,000 sugar maples, all tapped for their sweet sap. The interior of the cabin serves as a reminder of times gone by, with a soldered alembic still, kettle drum, and copper faucets encapsulating a bygone era. The air inside is thick with the fragrance of woodsmoke and warmth.
As I make my way back toward Mont Tremblant National Park, the final highlight of my trip awaits within Parc Régional des Chutes-Monte-à-Peine-et-des-Dalles at Sainte-Béatrix. The L’Assomption River, adorned with three majestic waterfalls, flows through the park, creating an east-west trough. Here lies a stunning panorama, one I can enjoy all to myself. In this moment, I realize I’ve completely lost myself.
This embodies the essence of this trip: a journey into the captivating heart of Québec, surrounded by lakes and forests, fostering a sense of being exactly where you need to be. With balance restored, it feels nothing short of a personal awakening.
Make it Happen:
For more information on planning an itinerary, visit La Mauricie and Lanaudière.
Mike MacEacheran traveled to Canada with thanks to Bonjour Québec and Destination Canada. GoTravelDaily contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.
