Discovering the Charms of Newfoundland, Canada

‘Where you longs to, luv?’ asks the rental car lady as she hands over the keys. The peculiar brogue sounds part Irish, part Canadian, and the question is indecipherable. It’s the first of many odd encounters you’ll have on the island of Newfoundland.

Canada’s remote, eastern-most province ticks in its own time zone (a half-hour ahead of the mainland) and speaks its own dialect (the Dictionary of Newfoundland English provides translation). However, spend a few days traveling the Avalon Peninsula – the village-freckled area around the capital St John’s, with shore-clasping hikes, spouting whales, and rollicking pubs – and you’ll get in the local groove soon enough.

Hikes and History in Cupids

Start in the town of Cupids, the first settlement established by the English 400 years ago. Merchant John Guy sailed into Conception Bay on Newfoundland in 1610, fishing the cod-rich waters and staked out England’s first colony in Canada.

You can tour the remains of Guy’s plantation, part of an active archaeological dig. Silver coins, bottle shards, and over 150,000 artifacts unearthed can be found at Cupids Legacy Centre (Seaforest Dr). Better yet, head to the town’s northern edge and hike the Burnt Head Trail. Climb to the rocky headlands, past blueberry thickets and stone walls that once fenced settlers’ gardens, and look out over the same beautiful coast that attracted Guy.

He’d be impressed if he knew all the festivities that go on in his honor, including fiddlin’ concerts, Elizabethan theatre, tea parties, and massive anniversary celebrations. Even Prince Charles dropped by to pay his respects to this small town of 790 citizens, located 80km east of St John’s.

Whales in Witless Bay

It’s nearly impossible to be in Newfoundland for a few days without seeing whales. However, if you haven’t spotted one, a trip to the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve will certainly rectify that.

The 35-foot Molly Bawn (Rte 10) sails to the four-island sanctuary from Mobile, just 40km south of St John’s. It doesn’t take long before someone yells, ‘There’s one!’ Sure enough, a big barnacled humpback whale surfaces, arching its tail flukes and spraying water before disappearing beneath the waves.

However, whales are just a bonus on the ride; the reserve serves primarily as a breeding ground for millions of seabirds. The boat approaches the islands’ sheer cliffs, revealing a cacophony of shrieks and a flurry of black-and-white birds. You might spot kittiwakes, murres, Leach’s storm petrels, and the goofy-looking puffins, the reserve’s undisputed rock stars.

Moreover, you may be lucky enough to see an iceberg drift by during your trip!

Pints in St John’s

Back in the lively St John’s, it’s happy hour. The cobblestoned George Street allegedly boasts more bars and pubs per square foot than anywhere in North America, ready to pour drinks most hours of the day and night.

Begin your evening at Trapper John’s Pub (3 George St) with a traditional ‘screech-in’ ceremony, allowing you to become an Honorary Newfoundlander. The bartender rings a bar bell, pours a shot of dark rum (a local brand called Screech), and watches you gulp it down while the patrons cheer.

‘Are you ready to become a Newfoundlander?’ he quizzes. You respond in the local lingo, ‘Indeed I is, me old cock, and long may your big jib draw’ (which means, ‘yes, my friend, and good luck back at ya’).

After the ceremonial kiss of Stubby the toy puffin, everyone applauds, and you receive a certificate declaring you an official islander.

Interestingly, it turns out ‘where you longs to’ – the rental car lady’s initial question – means ‘where are you from.’ Now you have two answers.