Explore Argentina’s Patagonia National Park
Along the wind-scoured Route 40, Patagonia looms large before the traveler. The Andes mark a jagged border with Chile, and sparse settlements appear like mirages. This is Argentina’s Patagonia National Park, a region replete with ancient rock art, wild herds of llama-like guanaco, and untrammeled trails.
Those planning a trek around the toothy Fitz Roy Massif in El Chaltén should consider this detour to the lesser-known northern reaches of Santa Cruz province.
Created in 2015, Argentina’s Patagonia National Park shares the same name as a new national park just over the border in Chile. At 444,680 acres, it’s over twice as large as New York City. A quarter of the park already has national park status, while the rest remains under restoration by the nonprofit Conservation Land Trust (CLT Argentina).
In the middle of the Patagonian steppe, its landscape of rainbow hills, big mesas, and serpentine trails is reminiscent of the deserts of the Southwestern US. However, it’s also uniquely Argentinian, a region where endemic species are making a comeback and where the shadows of past civilizations are still portrayed on rock walls.
Marked by a Nomadic Past
Some 9000 years ago, nomads, now referred to as pre-Tehuelches, inhabited this region, hunting large herds of guanaco for skins and meat during summers and retreating to lower ground and sheltered canyons for the winter months.
Remnants of their presence abound in the area, including obsidian arrowheads, hunting parapets, and burial sites. They told their story by leaving handprints on recessed cliff walls, their scarlet outlines applied by mineral paint blown through a hollow bone straw – hence the name, Cueva de las Manos.
Though there are hundreds of examples of rock art in the region, Cueva de las Manos is the most impressive. This world-class archaeological site features thousands of hands in an overlapping collage, with samples dating back as far as 7370 BC. Against the silent backdrop of the canyon, the sight is chilling.
They also left behind scenes of guanaco hunts, dancers, and anthropomorphic figures. Notably, of the eight hundred images, over 90 percent are left hands, with one that intriguingly has six fingers.
Most visitors access the site via a 28km (17-mile) gravel access road. However, for visitors to Cañadon Pinturas, it’s also possible to hike to the site via the Traditional Canyon Crossing, a three-hour, 2.6km (1.6 miles) trail round-trip. Although the descent is steep, it’s a straight shot across the canyon, following a small footbridge over the Pinturas River. You will enjoy spectacular views of the archaeological site during most of the approach.
Miles of Trails to Roam
There are two main sections of Patagonia National Park you can explore, although new infrastructure plans are in development that will open up other areas of the park.
Just outside Los Antiguos at the northwestern end of the park, the park headquarters is housed in the former estancia (small farm or ranch) of La Ascensión, featuring camping and access to windy Lago Buenos Aires. This is where the Meseta Trail starts.
The park’s longest and most difficult hike, Meseta Trail, follows a gurgling stream across the steppe (at 300m/984 feet) before climbing to the mesa top (1500m/4921 feet). The full loop is an intense 16km (10-mile), eight-hour round-trip, which can also be divided with an overnight stay in the backcountry at a designated campsite.
The greatest variety of trails are in the Cañadon Pinturas, located in the future southeast section of the park. The base of this portal is La Posta, a lodge 52km (32 miles) south of Perito Moreno.
For panoramic views, hike La Guanaca Trail. This 3.5km (2.1 miles), two-hour round-trip climbs La Guanaca peak. It’s not a huge ascent, but it still affords 360-degree views of alabaster and red rock splendor, peering over a cliff edge into the Pinturas River Canyon.
From the same parking area, Yaten Trail takes you into the river canyon to an old abandoned puesto, a shelter once used as a seasonal base for ranching. Alongside the river, it’s a gentle walk to continue to the Cueva de las Manos or return in a loop ascending via the Traditional Canyon Crossing. The 9.6km (6 miles) trail takes 5-8 hours round-trip (including a visit to the archaeological site).
Native Wildlife Are Returning
The newly protected areas are helping wildlife make a significant comeback to this ranching region.
In the 21st century, experts have found that it’s not enough to simply designate land a national park for its protection. In order to fully restore an ecosystem, all original native species must be present.
In Patagonia, that includes allowing the return of apex predators, like the puma, while ensuring that there’s also a healthy population of other fauna, including armadillos and Darwin’s rhea, an ostrich relative with spindly legs that zigzag in retreat.
The rewilding team of CLT Argentina is placing radio collars on pumas, guanacos, and vizcachas (a species of rodent characterized by its long ears) to better understand these animals’ behavior and movement. Biologist staff are optimistic that puma watching, a successful activity near Torres del Paine National Park in Chile, could become an important part of conservation-based tourism here.
Against bluebird skies, Andean condors with wingspans like Pterodactyls ride on the thermals above the canyon, while guanacos, though greatly reduced from their historic numbers, bound across the tawny steppe.
For now, the puma remains somewhat elusive, but with conservation efforts ramping up, the future is bright. Visitors will find enough of a thrill in returning to the nomadic origins of Patagonia National Park.
How to Visit Argentina’s Patagonia National Park
Lodging
In Cañadon Pinturas
La Posta (reservations +54 9 297 433-6261; parquepatagonia.arg@gmail.com) With a handful of excellent trails onsite, this renovated estancia lodge is the best place to stay for hikers and long-distance cyclists. It’s a peaceful retreat to the middle of nowhere, with tame rheas browsing the grounds. It features eight rooms, solar power, onsite dining, and wifi. Reservations are possible after the lodge inauguration in November 2019.
In Perito Moreno
Hostería Municipal (Estrada 1099, 011-15-2260-6666, d AR$2068 incl breakfast) On a hill behind Perito Moreno’s center, this tidy city-run lodging offers good value, with a bright breakfast hall and attentive service. Open year-round.
Near Los Antiguos
La Ascensión Camping (free) at the park headquarters, with covered picnic areas adjacent to Lago Buenos Aires. Along the Mesa Loop Trail, backcountry camping is available at designated sites with small huts for cooking and composting latrines.
Attractions
Parque Nacional Patagonia (free) – Official website of Argentina National Parks.
Parque Patagonia – Website by CLT Argentina with excellent maps and information on regional attractions and trails of this future national park.
Cueva de las Manos – 9am-7pm, 400 pesos, visit by hourly guided tour.
Museo Carlos Gradin (museogradin@gmail.com; open 9am-1pm & 4pm-8pm Wed-Fri, 4pm-8pm Sat-Sun; adults/kids AR$200/free) In Perito Moreno, this new museum pays homage to a pioneer of archaeology in the region. Visitors learn about nomadic culture and history, as well as the techniques used to create cave paintings. With a special section for kids and informative guided tours (in Spanish).
Guided Tours
The following regionally-based agencies bring visitors to Patagonia National Park and Cueva de las Manos:
Zoyen Turismo – Based in Perito Moreno, exclusive rights to tour Alero Charcamata, an excellent rock art site on private grounds.
Chelenco – Located in Los Antiguos, offers bi-national loop tours visiting national parks in both Chile and Argentina.
Transportation
Now mostly paved, Ruta 40 can be traveled by car, but a high-clearance vehicle is advisable, with 4WD useful for some side trips. Taqsa (+54 2062 493130) and Chalten Travel have bus connections between Perito Moreno or Los Antiguos to the major tourist destinations of El Chaltén (south) and Bariloche (north).
