Exploring the Travel Experiences of a Plus-Size Black Woman

As a Black woman living in London, I’m accustomed to having easy access to my creature comforts: I can pop into Peckham or Croydon for my afro hair products, take the Victoria line up to Tottenham to visit some of the best Ghanaian restaurants, and celebrate my heritage in the latest Afro-Caribbean festivals in Hackney. This multi-ethnic city has generally been a safe space for me, and I’ve rarely wanted for anything when it comes to products, food, or culture.

Despite all London has to offer, I’ve always been a keen traveller (or at least I try to be when the budget allows) and am ever mindful about the ways in which I may be treated when going outside of my comfort zone. I say this as someone who has also experienced varying degrees of racism in my hometown, regardless of how comfortable and accessible it is.

Navigating your way through a predominantly white society as a Black woman is far from straightforward; my status as a plus-size Black woman adds another layer of apprehension when it comes to exploring new destinations. When you exist within intersectionalities that have historically been marginalised, a degree of wariness about the prospect of travelling is completely normal and to be expected.

However, I love few things more than a challenge and have no interest in letting fear dictate my decisions. I started travelling to places within Europe and beyond, and embraced my natural love of planning ahead to check if any destinations on my wish list had a tendency to be fatphobic, racist or both. But even a militant planner like me soon realised this is an impossible task given the lack of available information on these topics online. Consequently, I am here to share my personal experiences and insights to help you make informed choices for your next trip!

Prague, Czech Republic

Cheap beer, great food, and the odd Swastika

I’ll start by saying that Prague is absolutely one of my favourite cities to visit. I’ve been there twice and would definitely go again. The food is hearty, flavorful, and full of beautiful tastes; the beer (oh the BEER!) is great value for money and wonderful (this is from someone who rarely drinks alcohol due to the taste); and the stunning gothic buildings and local attractions provide a wealth of options every day.

What struck me, however, was the sheer amount of Swastika graffiti I saw around the city. While I was already aware that the Czech Republic (then Czechoslovakia) was under German occupation during WWII, the graffiti looked surprisingly fresh, which was something I didn’t anticipate. Swastikas aside, I found the locals in tourist areas to be very friendly, but I couldn’t help but notice I attracted a lot of stares and odd looks whenever I used the metro to travel into town.

The most alarming incident occurred in a bar in the Old Town Square when a man (presumably drunk) approached my table, gave the Nazi salute, and screamed ‘HEIL HITLER!’ at me. It’s safe to assume that no one would find this a pleasant or welcoming experience while trying to enjoy a holiday. The other customers seemed visibly horrified, and the bar staff escorted him out. They apologised for his drunkenness, but I found it troubling that no one in the bar acknowledged what he’d actually said to me. I appreciated the staff’s action but felt it odd that the issue was framed around his intoxication rather than his racism.

From a fashion perspective, I didn’t come across retailers that catered to plus sizes during my visits in 2015 and 2016. I hope the availability has since improved, but it’s definitely worth keeping in mind if you’re planning to pack light and shop locally. My advice is to stay within the city limits, as this area is generally friendly and accustomed to visitors from other cultures. Stock up on some excellent beers, travel with a buddy, and you’ll have a wonderful time.

Venice & Naples, Italy

Delicious pizza, historic landmarks, and a sprinkle of racism

Italy had been on my travel list for the longest time. I’d always dreamed of visiting Rome, Pompeii, and Venice, the city of love. So you can imagine my excitement when my boyfriend surprised me with a Valentine’s Day trip to Venice in 2016. We had been to Naples the previous year, but I found that experience so unpleasant that I frankly wanted to erase that memory.

The city itself – the architecture, the food, and the attractions – was absolutely fantastic, but the racism I encountered was shocking. From local men assuming that travelling with my white boyfriend made me a prostitute to women approaching me solely to grab my braids and swing them around, it was quite overwhelming. It wasn’t until I returned to the UK and learned from a friend that Italy has a somewhat violent history of racism that the ordeal truly sunk in.

On this occasion, however, we were visiting the ultra-popular city of Venice, and I assumed that since it’s a major tourist hub, I’d encounter a more welcoming atmosphere.

Unfortunately, Venice mirrored much of what I had experienced in Naples; hidden smiles and snickers when I stepped onto a gondola, hair being pulled by strangers, and receiving the worst service in restaurants. Poor service can happen to any weary traveler; however, when it occurs consistently, it becomes apparent that the focus is on you specifically. Such incidents cast an unwelcome shadow over my experience in the city and Italy as a whole, making it unlikely that I will return.

Of course, this is my personal experience, and I would not suggest that others who look like me should generalize from it. Vigilance is essential in any destination, and having long braided hair seemed to result in many locals viewing it as an opportunity to invade my personal space. If you plan to travel with a similar hairstyle, this is something to consider; personally, I found that the adverse reactions did not overshadow the architectural and natural beauty of the country.

Bali, Indonesia

A place to live your best plus-size life

Bali was the first long-haul trip I’d ever taken. Aside from my layover at Hong Kong airport, where I was stopped several times by locals who thought I was Oprah, I can’t say I had any negative experiences due to my race. Bali is tourism central: it’s essentially the Super Mario boss level of travel and consequently features a diverse range of cultures among its visitors.

What was interesting to note, however, was the way I was treated because of my weight. I was mostly stared at, with the occasional giggle and point directed at me, but these actions didn’t seem to stem from malice. Bali has little to no public transport, and the local diet is exceptionally healthy. Therefore, being overweight might not carry the same social implications there as it does in the West.

At no point during my travels did I encounter another plus-size person, which is likely why the stares and glances felt more like I was an anomaly than an unwelcome presence. I had an extraordinary time in Bali and it was the first occasion I felt truly free and able to express my best unapologetic, fat life. I wore bikinis, swimsuits, and strapless dresses, and felt absolutely amazing.

New York, USA

Nothing but plus-size love

My travel experiences as a plus-sized Black woman have certainly not made me feel unsafe anywhere on earth; I’ve had absolutely wonderful experiences in Budapest, Barcelona, and New York, where I’ve felt incredibly welcome and had fantastic interactions.

In fact, New York was the place I started my journey towards self-love. I connected with other plus-sized women in my apartment rental in Harlem and truly felt embraced by the community.

My primary piece of advice is to conduct thorough research about your chosen destination prior to setting off. Regardless of where you go, your safety and mental wellbeing are vital, and being prepared can help make potentially shocking experiences feel manageable.

While it’s understandable that such resources can be hard to find, especially since the spotlight often shines on the experiences of white, slim women, I’m hopeful that movements such as body positivity and social media awareness can eventually infiltrate the travel industry. Increasing diversity and inclusivity within travel writing and the influencer community will promote more ethical and informed travel experiences for everyone.