The first place in Ireland to have a thriving tourist industry was Kerry. As far back as the 1800s, the lakes around Killarney were drawing visitors, including Queen Victoria. Today, it remains the most-visited location in the country. Tourists flock here to admire the magnificent Ring of Kerry, Carrantuohill, Dingle, and Listowel Castle, among other stunning sites. Kerry’s wild beauty, steeped in history, leaves visitors delighted, often prompting repeat visits. For writer Emily Hourican, a visit at least once a year is essential. Kerry is everything beautiful and wild, and so much more.
The Scenic Route to Kerry
Along the road between Sneem and Caherdaniel in Co Kerry, just before reaching White Strand and Castlecove, there’s a spot where the road widens enough to pull over. At this viewpoint, after passing through the lush landscapes around Parknasilla, the scenery opens up to reveal rocky terrains and stunning views of the vast Atlantic, along with Deenish and Scariff Islands.
Nature’s Mysteries and Historical Significance
Every year I return to this beautiful corner of Kerry; it’s here where I pause to absorb the ethereal beauty. Some days, mist obscures everything, while on others, one can gaze as far as the ancient monks believed was the edge of the universe, atop Skellig Michael, existing valiantly among nature.
These monks chose to reside on a rocky outcrop far into the wild Atlantic, eking out an existence close to their God. Many who stand among the beehive huts on Skellig Michael feel that in this otherworldly setting, conventional geographical knowledge fades, and the spirit of the place emerges.
Return to My Roots
Despite not being born in Kerry, this region has become a profound part of my being. I was born in Belfast in 1972 and spent my formative years in Brussels. These summers back in Ireland were precious, eventually leading to a strong connection with Kerry.
The house my family rented outside Cahirciveen remains one of my fondest memories. I frequented Cuas Crom, a cove perfect for swimming, with calm waters shielded by cliffs, giving joy to my childhood.
Emotional Landscapes
Despite my teenage reluctance to embrace the outdoors—and fond memories of simple meals—I knew this land held lasting treasures. The sounds, sights, and the peculiar magic of Kerry forge unforgettable connections.
Finding Home Again
Years passed, and as I began a family of my own, my connection to Kerry rekindled. Introducing my children to the places of my own childhood, they now explore and ask—‘Can we get ice cream from the Valentia Island Dairy? Shall we hike Bolus Head this year?’
Must-Visit Spots in Kerry
Bolus Head
Drive to the Cill Rialaig artists’ retreat, park, and walk along the cliffside as ancient famine cottages and stunning landscapes unfold before you. The dramatic cliffs end in a breathtaking view of the Atlantic.
The Stone Forts of Cahergal and Leacanabuaile
Both forts provide a glimpse into the ancient past, complete with well-preserved structures, each with stories waiting to be told.
The Skelligs
A pilgrimage to the Skelligs is a must. Boats depart regularly from Portmagee, but be prepared for a wait as tickets tend to sell out quickly.
Ballinskelligs Beach
This stunning beach, with its fine white sand and spectacular views, is a lesser-known gem compared to its counterparts like Derrynane.
Caherdaniel
Explore the dunes of Derrynane, where you will find some of the most exquisitely beautiful beaches complemented by delightful tea and cake at Derrynane House.
Cuas Crom Beach, Cahirciveen
This cove remains my top destination for swimming, with its calm waters and safe surroundings inviting family fun.
O’Neills The Point, Renard Point, Cahirciveen
Make your way here by 5 PM for the chance at a table. This spot is revered for serving the finest and freshest seafood.
Valentia Island
Visit the ancient tetrapods, hike to the island’s highest point, swim at Glanleam Beach, and savor ice cream made from locally sourced milk.
