High in the undulating woodlands of the Kii Peninsula, on a raised tableland at the peak of a mountain, sits Kōya-san. This sacred place offers serenity, room for reflection, and a captivating glimpse of authentic Japan. Visitors who make the journey through the region’s narrow valleys and tree-capped peaks can experience temple lodgings, dawn meditation with Buddhist monks, and unique dining practices.
Although it is only 50km from the bustling, neon-soaked streets of Osaka, Kōya-san has a rustic, natural beauty that makes a trip here feel like stepping into another world.
The Story of Kōya-san
Founded in the 9th century by the monk Kūkai (known posthumously as Kōbō Daishi), Kōya-san’s monastic complex is the active headquarters of the Shingon school of Esoteric Buddhism, a faith with a wide following throughout Japan.
In 804, Kōbō Daishi boarded a ship bound for China, where he spent two years studying the teachings of Master Huiguo before returning home to share the knowledge that he had gained. In 816, with the help of followers, he built a temple – the precursor of Kongōbu-ji – on a plain at the top of the mountain. The settlement expanded with the addition of Garan, a complex of striking halls, temples, pagodas, and religious monuments.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, part of the Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range, Kōya-san has 117 temples today, with around 50 of them catering to travellers wishing to stay. To the east, the river Tama-gawa flows through Oku-no-in cemetery, a vast resting place with lantern-lit stone pathways snaking through a thick cedar forest towards the sacred mausoleum of Kōbō Daishi. Here, legend says, the monk waits in a state of deep meditation.
Staying in a Temple
Due to the travel time required to reach Kōya-san, a day trip isn’t recommended; to enjoy the full experience, aim to spend at least one night.
Visitors don yukata (light cotton kimono) in the evening and sleep on simple futon bedding on tatami-mat floors. The atmosphere is tranquil, and certain temples allow guests to take part in activities such as calligraphy and Ajikan meditation, as well as the entrancing fire ceremony. Visitors at all temples are welcome to accompany monks as they hold their morning devotions.
Temple lodging, called shukubō, is extremely popular, so booking in advance is essential. The town has a range of options, and prices include breakfast and dinner, varying from temple to temple according to the selected room type and meal plan. This can range from ¥9700 per person for an old-style Japanese room with a shared bathroom to ¥16,000 for a room with a garden view and a private bathroom. Shukubō retreats typically do not accept credit cards, so take cash.
Meditation Guidance
A Buddhist service is held every morning at shukubō temples, usually at 6am. During the service, the chief priest and monks can be witnessed chanting sutras in rhythmic unity in the main temple hall. Selected temples also host afternoon meditation sessions, usually around 4pm or 5pm. Information on the exact times for the practices at each temple is available at the office upon check-in or by contacting the Shukubo Association.
Dining Experiences in Kōya-san
Temples in Kōya-san specialize in a vegetarian Buddhist cuisine called shōjin-ryōri, using seasonal vegetables, cereals, seaweed, and edible wild plants found in the region. Focusing on balance, seasonality, and harmony with nature, dishes are rooted in Buddhist mental training and incorporate five methods, five tastes, and five colors.
Specialties include unique kōya-dofu tofu, as well as its sesame-flavored relative goma-dofu. Established during the town’s founding, this cuisine has evolved while still maintaining its core principles.
Following morning prayer, visitors dine communally, cross-legged on the floor of the dining room, where trays filled with a selection of dishes are served while monks circulate with freshly cooked white rice and green tea. Evening meals are typically delivered to guests’ sleeping quarters. Additionally, visitors to Kōya-san can also sample shōjin-ryōri in various restaurants in town.
Touring Oku-no-in Cemetery
The most sacred site in the region, Oku-no-in cemetery features a vast resting place with lantern-lit stone pathways weaving through a thick cedar forest, leading to the sacred mausoleum of Kōbō Daishi.
The cemetery contains more than 200,000 memorial towers, including graves of feudal lords, shōguns, poets, writers, and luminaries from Japanese industry. Any individual is welcome to claim a plot, regardless of their religious beliefs or nationality. According to legend, Kōbō Daishi awaits here.
A highly recommended way to experience the cemetery is to participate in a night tour guided by a monk. These (weather-dependent) tours are operated by the Ekō-in temple, yet they are open to visitors staying at various temples. The path is illuminated by orange lanterns depicting crescent and full moons, symbolizing the belief that our thoughts also follow shifting phases. The tour pauses at the river, allowing attendees to cleanse themselves in a ritual that includes washing a chosen Buddhist statue. Guests can then proceed to the final stretch of the hallowed ground leading to Kōbō Daishi’s resting place. A long-held belief asserts that the ancient monk is alive but in a deep meditation as he awaits the appearance of the future Buddha, with monks seen bringing offerings of fresh food to the tomb every morning.
How to Get to Kōya-san
Kōya-san is under two hours from Osaka by train (via the Nankai Railway), followed by a brief cable-car ride up the mountain and a 10-minute bus journey into the town itself; alternatively, a new limousine bus direct from Kyoto is available.
