The roads in Honduras are for everyone. People, dogs, vendors, three-wheel scooters and, at the bottom of the food chain – cars. They are a place of constant activity where, at a traffic light, one can purchase a bag of fruit and something to wash it down with.
Road tripping through the western part of the country not only offers a glimpse of Honduras’ lush mountainous terrain, but also into the lives of a people often kept at arm’s length. Highways CA-5 and CA-11 are your yellow-brick road and extend as far south as the capital city of Tegucigalpa and way out west to the Copán Ruins.
Gracias: A Town Where Everything Has a History
About a four-hour drive from the Ramon Villeda airport is the town of Gracias. A place where nothing goes to waste, every building, cobblestoned street, or baroque church in use today has a story steeped in the town’s history. Therefore, it’s best to hire a local guide who can explain the historic significance of a school you may casually walk by.
The typical starting point for tours is in the town’s central park, where you’ll find a statue honoring the country’s first great champion – Lempira, who fought Spanish invaders. Lempira’s image is featured on the country’s smallest denomination note, and all of Honduran currency bears his name.
Before leaving town, make time for a quick stop to Envasados y dulces Lorendiana. This popular store is filled with jars stuffed with baby corn, carrots, chilis, and a host of other vegetables. There are also jams and homemade soaps. Head towards the back of the store for frozen ice treats, available in various flavors such as cookies and cream, chocolate, mango, and leche.
Gracias’ hottest attraction lies a few miles outside of town: the Arcilaca hot springs, a peaceful location where Honduran families go. The site features four pools of varying temperatures, with the hottest spring reaching 104 degrees Fahrenheit (40C). The setup is pretty bare-bones, but the bathroom and changing areas are clean.
Stopping to Smell the Coffee at Seis Valle
About an hour north from Gracias is the town of Santa Rosa de Copán. It’s a bustling area in comparison to Gracias. Before you navigate the seemingly impossible narrow streets, a stop at Seis Valle, just outside the main city, is highly recommended.
This family-run business grows and processes its own coffee, with about 70 percent being exported throughout the country and the United States. The other 30 percent goes to the lovely café on the property, where attentive staff can make your coffee dreams a reality.
Tours of the grounds highlight the fascinating transition of the blood-colored berry to a deep brown dry bean. Visitors should be prepared to engage in hands-on experiences.
Roasting Perfection at La casa de Doña Olimpia
A painting of Doña Olimpia hangs on a wall above colorful ceramic trinkets and assorted plants. The tables and chairs are carved from old trees, and the drink menu includes three options – beer, soda (always go for the hometown Copán Dry), or water. Four generations of Doña Olimpia’s family run the restaurant, knowing why patrons from even as far as Tegucigalpa during Christmas flock to Santa Rosa – the roast pig at La casa de Doña Olimpia is simply the best.
This tender and crunchy roast, after hours of slow cooking in the family’s wood-burning fire ovens, is served simply with fresh tortillas and a bowl of beans. During the holidays, Honduran families will pay upwards of $160 USD for a whole pig, and the restaurant ships anywhere in the country. Yes, it’s that good.
Where There Is Smoke, There Are Cigars
Visit the La Flor de Copán Cigar Factory located in Santa Rosa de Copán to learn the intricate process of cigar making. During the group tours (10 am & 2 pm; $3), visitors will get to see and touch dried tobacco leaves, learn about the stark differences of each cigar and its unique flavor, and later purchase the finished products. Even non-smokers would find this tour interesting. Be sure to call ahead to make a reservation; wear closed-toe shoes, long sleeves, and trousers. A hair net and goggles will be provided once the tour begins.
Sensing the Magic at Macaw Mountain
Nearly two-and-a-half hours west of Santa Rosa lies Copán Ruinas. While the natural inclination is to head straight to the world-renowned Mayan ruins, a better plan is to visit Macaw Mountain first. This bird park and nature reserve is home to over 30 species of birds, including scarlet macaws (Honduras’ national bird), parakeets, toucans, parrots, and vultures. Many of the inhabitants were rescued from the illegal bird trade or brought in from owners who could no longer care for them.
The park’s main goal is to rehabilitate the birds and ultimately release those that are native to the area back into the environment. Incredibly knowledgeable guides are on hand to lead visitors around the natural enclosure, introducing them to the birds and sharing their stories. The biggest moment for the park came in 2011 when they managed to reintroduce a scarlet macaw population to the Mayan ruins. Understanding this context enhances the experience, making an exploration of the Copán Ruinas all the more magical.
Ready for Another Road Trip?
The eastern section of Honduras, dotted with national parks, lakes, Caribbean coast, botanical gardens, beaches, and seaside cities, is rich in more Central American road trip rewards.
Alicia Johnson visited Honduras with support from the Honduran Tourism Board. GoTravelDaily contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.
