Exploring Lithuania’s Unique Islamic Heritage
When medieval Lithuania was a Grand Duchy, it faced an aggressive threat from Christians in the west. Those who came to the pagan country’s aid were Muslims from the east, and their descendants have resided here ever since. Here’s how to access and understand Lithuania’s 600-year-old Islamic heritage.
Exploring Muslim Villages
Sitting roughly an equal distance to the south of the modern and ancient capitals of Vilnius and Trakai, Keturiasdešimt Totorių – ‘Forty Tatars’ – is one of the original villages where Crimean Tatar Muslims settled around 1398. They were brought here by Grand Duke Vytautas to help defend his Duchy against the threat of the Christian Teutonic Knights, and after they successfully did so, he invited them to stay.
According to legend, forty Muslim families settled in Keturiasdešimt, which is still laid out like the original Tatar military encampment it once was, and at the heart of the village stands the strongest reminder. The mosque in Keturiasdešimt is a simple, square, dark wood construction, complete with a corrugated tin roof. It blends seamlessly into the rural Baltic landscape; the turret and onion dome atop the apex roof could belong to one of the local Orthodox churches. However, as the crescent testifies, this is very much a Baltic mosque, as it stands on a site where a mosque was first recorded in 1558.
In the shade of towering trees, visitors will find one of three Muslim cemeteries in the area. Most of the older headstones have been worn away to appear like large rocks, but there is one dating to around 1621 that belongs to ‘Allahberdi’. It’s not just for the history that visitors come to Keturiasdešimt. The village remains home to several Muslim families, many of whom claim direct descent from the very first generation of Muslim settlers. With the right introduction, listening to their captivating stories is one of the real highlights of visiting here.
A Story of Survival and Relics
The wooden mosque at Keturiasdešimt is one of 25 that were once scattered across Lithuania at the turn of the last century, including several in the modern capital, Vilnius. One of these used to sit in the Muslim village of Lukiškių, an area now part of the city’s ‘New Town’. Lukiškių village was founded in the 16th century, but any remnants, along with its mosque, were torn down in the 1960s. Today, history-seekers have to rely on a small memorial plaque on the corner of Vilnius University’s Physics Institute on A. Goštauto gatvė. The plaque acknowledges the location of the original mosque, sitting close to Lukiškių gatvė and Mečetės gatvė – mečetė is the local word for mosque. Currently, there is no purpose-built mosque in the capital city.
The nearest mosque is located just southeast of Vilnius in another historic village, Nemėžis, which barely survived the aggressive communist crackdown of places of worship that saw most of the other 25 destroyed. Instead of being burned down, the Soviet army utilized Nemėžis Mosque to store arms and munitions.
Nemėžis is also one of the very first Muslim settlements, dating back to the late 14th century. The village was strategically located near Vytautas’ summer residence to assist in its defense. Historical records indicate that a mosque was first constructed here in 1684. Today, visitors can admire the modern incarnation, a light-colored, wooden building dating from 1909, designed to closely resemble local churches. It features a pronounced tower above the entrance topped by an onion dome and crescent. Behind the mosque lies the village’s ancient Muslim cemetery.
Moreover, Nemėžis’ mosque is home to one of the country’s most beautiful Qurans, which survived the communist era. This intricately decorated manuscript, featuring motifs and patterns unique to Baltic and Tatar cultures, is displayed near the mehrab (prayer niche).
There is one more traditional and historic wooden mosque in Lithuania, located in the village of Raižiai, deep in the southwest. This mosque is notable for two reasons: firstly, it is the only mosque in Lithuania that remained functional throughout the Soviet period, and secondly, it houses the country’s most important Islamic artefact: an ornate, throne-like, green and silver, wooden mimbar (pulpit) dating back to 1684. Raižiai Mosque is the largest of Lithuania’s three historical wooden mosques, featuring a vivid red tin roof and architectural similarities to its historic counterparts. The village was founded in the 15th century, with reports of a mosque as early as 1556.
Discovering Lithuania’s Grand Muftiate
In addition, there is one other mosque in Lithuania; it is the only one in the Baltic region built of stone. Kaunas Mosque, constructed in 1930 to mark the 500th anniversary of Vytautas’ death, is located on Totorių (Tatar) gatvė, east of the center, replacing an old Muslim community house adjacent to a cemetery. Inspired by traditional Islamic architecture, including Turkish Ottoman and Egyptian Mamluk styles, the snow-white building boasts a beautiful ‘cracked egg’ dome and a slender minaret.
Kaunas Mosque was closed in the 1940s and used as a circus during the Soviet era, which resulted in the destruction of the cemetery. Today, it has been restored as a mosque and serves as the main seat of the Grand Mufti of Lithuania. It is also the most accessible of all Lithuania’s mosques and serves as an ideal location to arrange introductions and visits to the country’s historic villages in the south.
Enjoying the Flavors of Lithuania’s Muslim Heritage
The long-standing Muslim presence in Lithuania has led to the integration of delicious Tatar food into its cuisine. One popular and widely available dish is the savory street snack, chebureki, often compared to a samosa. This deep-fried, crescent-shaped pastry is filled with lightly spiced minced meat, making it a Crimean classic that is absolutely delicious when freshly fried and crispy.
For sweet dishes, the highlight is simtalapis, or ‘one hundred sheets’. This ‘u’-shaped cake, layered with sugar, poppy seeds, and butter, has Tatar origins and is traditionally baked in wood-fired ovens. Frequently enjoyed on special occasions like bayram (Eid), it is light and buttery, resembling a croissant.
Muslim travelers should note that due to the lack of an established halal industry in Lithuania, most meat is not slaughtered according to halal rituals, making it challenging to find halal meat. The Mufti’s office in Kaunas or Vilnius (on Smolensko gatvė) is a reliable source of information regarding halal options.
Making It Happen
The Mufti’s office is also the best place to plan any trip exploring the country’s Islamic heritage, as they can facilitate necessary introductions. Furthermore, they can assist in arranging private transport to the villages. Alternatively, renting your own vehicle is highly recommended, as the villages are well connected by road.