For remoteness and adventure in the very north of Britain, Shetland, an archipelago of islands halfway between the UK and Norway, offers all the best of Scotland but without the crowds. Some 170km off the country’s north coast, travelers will find small Shetland ponies roaming wild, a vast playground for outdoor adventures, and a people that likes their knitwear cozy and their Viking traditions alive and kicking.
All points north
Where the Atlantic Ocean meets the North Sea and Scandinavia meets Scotland is Britain’s most northerly point, Shetland, made up of some 100 islands, 15 of which are inhabited. Explore Mainland, or take the ferry to second largest island Yell, bird-haven Fetlar, remote Out Skerries, or Unst, the northernmost of Britain’s northernmost isles. Getting to Shetland can be quite an adventure in itself. To honor the island’s maritime heritage, take the passenger ferry from Aberdeen, a 12-hour overnight trip through the often rough and stormy North Sea. Look out for dolphins during the day and do some stargazing at night in the light-pollution-free skies.
Viking heritage and beyond
The Vikings took Shetland by storm; the islands were right in the middle of the Scandinavians’ sea-based empire. It’s hardly surprising that some 1200 years ago many of them stopped here, built houses, and established farms. Visit Unst to see the longhouse sites at Hamar, Underhoull and Belmont, a Viking longship replica and Shetland’s largest standing stone. Viking culture is celebrated each January when communities celebrate Up-Helly-Aa: dressed in Viking costumes, locals carry a galley boat in a spectacular torch-lit procession through the streets before setting it on fire.
Pre-Viking Shetland goes back millennia; many sites offer fascinating glimpses into the islands’ ancient past, the best of which is undoubtedly Jarlshof on Mainland. This extraordinary place has been occupied and redeveloped over some four thousand years, often described as ‘one of the most remarkable archaeological sites ever excavated in the British Isles.’
Fiddle frenzy in Lerwick
Lerwick, the capital of Shetland, is a vibrant base from which to explore the island. A quirky little place, built directly on the waterfront with waves crashing directly against some of the buildings, it has plenty of pubs that host weekly live music nights, featuring local fiddle players alongside visiting musicians. The city’s musical calendar includes the Shetland Folk Festival, the Shetland Accordion & Fiddle Festival, and the aptly named ‘Fiddle Frenzy’. Prepare your dancing shoes!
Dratsies, selkies and ponies
Shetland is a birdwatcher’s paradise. In summer, the moorlands of Yell are alive with breeding birds, from red-throated divers to golden plovers, and if you’re lucky, you might even spot one of Britain’s smallest birds of prey, the merlin. Head over to Unst where Hermaness National Nature Reserve offers many beautiful walks with birdwatching opportunities, or to the tiny and remote island Out Skerries, which is busy with rare birds during migration months. Watching nesting on the steep cliffs is even more spectacular—Sumburgh Head is a good example, where fulmars and black guillemots are common, and Scotland’s signature bird, the puffin, can be found too.
When it comes to mammals, Shetland doesn’t do too badly either. Dratsies (aka otters) can often be seen playing in the shallows, whales migrate through the waters here, and selkies (aka seals) enjoy basking on rocks at low tide. Among the best-known animals are the famous Shetland ponies, with the largest population found on Unst, grazing on common land. These hardy ponies were once used for ploughing and in mining, prized for their strength. Today, they are still bred on the islands, and you can easily encounter these fluffy little fellows while traveling around, often grazing by the roadside. They are cheeky and curious, so be sure to hide any snacks you carry deep in your pockets.
Northerly barrels and crags
Adventure seekers who don’t find their thrill just from hiking the spectacular coastline can scratch that adventurous itch on Shetland. The sea between the islands provides excellent kayaking and sailing opportunities, and several good surf spots await those unafraid of the chilly waters—especially near Sumburgh Head (befriending local surfers might lead to discovering some elusive barrels). Additionally, the islands make a great climbing destination, featuring the black, towering cliffs at Eshaness, where the most spectacular climbs are found, complemented by the excitement of the North Atlantic snapping at your heels.
Knitting know-how
Shetland has an abundance of sheep, resulting in a substantial wool supply. Therefore, top-quality knitted goods are high on the list of souvenirs available. The delicate patterns differ from island to island, offering everything from brightly colored items to more subtle earth-toned options. A Shetland wool sweater not only looks beautiful but also keeps you warm in the fickle island weather, which can change from bright sunshine to freezing hail in mere minutes. The knitting year culminates in the annual Shetland Wool Week at the end of September.
The fairest of them all
If the islands of Shetland aren’t remote enough for you, consider taking a ferry or plane to Fair Isle. This isolated rock, situated between Orkney and Shetland, is home to around 70 sturdy islanders who live in traditional crofts on the island’s southern third—the remaining land primarily belongs to sheep and birds. Fair Isle is well-known for its internationally renowned bird observatory (destroyed by fire in 2019 but anticipated to be rebuilt soon) and its signature knitting patterns, famous for their vibrant colors.
