Over the centuries, the medinas of the Maghreb have disseminated their magic far outside the monumental walls that surround them. Weary traders have sought shelter in fanadiq (ancient inns used by caravans) after bargaining for medina-made goods to export to every corner of the globe. Artists, including the 19th-century Orientalist painters, made fashionable careers by capturing medina scenes on canvas. Furthermore, Hollywood directors have long used medinas for exotic location shoots and as inspiration for over-the-top set designs back at the studio.
These fortified mini-cities, where people have lived, worked, and traded since medieval times, are scattered along the North African coastline and into the interior. They remind us of the essential roles that trade and artisanship have always played in this part of the world. Notable examples, including the old walled cities in Fez and Marrakesh in Morocco, are well-known. However, few are as unspoiled as the compact medina in the heart of Tunis, established in the 7th century. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979 and is undergoing a thoughtful restoration courtesy of local conservation organisations and heritage-minded entrepreneurs.
Wandering through its narrow streets, sipping mint tea in shisha-scented cafes, and seeking out souvenirs in its bustling souqs is a highlight of every visit to Tunisia’s capital.
Getting Your Bearings
Tunis’ medina covers nearly 300 hectares and is divided into several neighborhoods. The highlights of the medina are found on or around the streets radiating out from the landmark Zitouna Mosque with its distinctive square Almohades-style minaret. The mosque can be accessed from every bab (gateway) leading into the medina, but most visitors start at Bab El Bahr on the western edge of Centre Ville. Then, you can take Rue de la Kasbah or Rue Jamaa Ezzitouna and head west. This allows you to loop through the El Hafsia neighborhood with its magnificent dars (courtyard mansions), explore the heart of the medina with its souqs, madrassas (schools for the study of the Quran), mosques, and zaouias (mausoleums), and exit through the residential Torbet El Bey neighborhood, home to Ottoman-era mosques and mausoleums, as well as local hammams and some of the medina’s most magnificent dars. Although entering mosques in Tunisia is forbidden for non-Muslims, it is often possible to enter zaouias, dars, and madrassas to admire their inner courtyards, encrusted with vibrantly colored tiles and delicately carved decorative stucco.
Rue Sidi Ben Arous
Named after a 13th-century mystic and professor, this fascinating street stretches north from the Zitouna Mosque and merges into Rue du Pacha at Place de La Hafsia. Ensure you have a camera handy as you wander, as shots of the carved and brightly painted doors lining the street are delightful.
Just off Rue du Pacha, in the El Hafsia neighborhood, is a cluster of dars and zaouias that have been restored under the auspices of the Association for Safeguarding the Tunis Medina. Be sure to pop into Dar Lasram, a beautifully tiled 19th-century mansion that serves as the association’s headquarters. Additionally, visit the impressive Dar El Monastiri, now home to the Centre National des Arts Calligraphiques, where specialists in traditional Arabic penmanship are trained.
Souq des Chechias
Ask any visitor or local to nominate their favorite souq in the medina, and the response is likely to be the Souq des Chechias. Located on the corner of Rue Sidi Ben Arous and Rue de la Kasbah, it comprises two covered passageways lined with jewelry box-like spaces painted in mint green and decorated with mirrors, stained glass, and ornate wall panels. These exquisite shops focus exclusively on one product—chechias, Tunisia’s traditional blood-red felt caps.
During the 17th century, when the souq was established, a million chechias were produced here annually. Today, about 10 chaouachis still work in the souq, producing the traditional Tunisian version and customized felt hats in various colors and styles exported worldwide. Visitors can watch the chaouachis at work, purchase a hat to take home, and enjoy a glass of tea or a cold drink at Café Chaouachine, which is popular with local tradesmen and shoppers. Nearby shops offer quality local handicrafts and antiques—check out Le Berbere, known for its range of babouches (traditional leather slippers); Kandinsky Art Gallery, where old books, prints, paintings, and objets d’art can be sourced; and the eccentric yet charming Ed Dar, a traditional house filled with rugs, textiles, jewelry, and bric-a-brac that will appeal to collectors.
Souq El Attarine
From Rue Sidi Ben Arous, follow your nose to the Perfume Makers’ Souq, nestled in the shadow of the Zitouna Mosque. Dating from the 13th century, it remains home to shops selling fragrant oils and waters. While here, be sure to stop at Fondouk El Attarine, a meticulously restored funduq housing a courtyard restaurant serving quality traditional food. Upstairs, the stylish La Maison de L’Artisan boutique offers top-quality Tunisian handicrafts, including babouches, scarves, ceramics, clothing, perfumes, copperware, rugs, and jewelry. Nearby shops selling handicrafts are also worth a browse.
Rue des Librarires
Accessed from the square in front of the Zitouna Mosque, this street is home to one of the medina’s last remaining traditional bathhouses, the male-only Hammam El Kachachine. Its distinctive exterior features red-and-green painted columns and black-and-white detailing over a horseshoe-shaped archway—centuries-old decoration denoting the presence of a hammam. Also located on this street are the 18th-century Madrasa El Bachia, now housing artisans’ ateliers, and one of the medina’s best budget eateries, Doken, which serves delicious French-accented fare.
Tourbet El Bey
The areas directly north and south of the Zitouna Mosque are home to a tangle of vaulted souqs, named after the products they have traditionally sold—the Souq des Étoffes (Fabric Market), Souq El Berka (Jewellers’ Market), and Souq de la Laine (Wool Souq) are among the most atmospheric. These are illuminated by hazy shafts of sunlight and lined with traditional workshops. Nearby is the popular M’Rabet, a café adorned with an Orientalist fantasy interior where patrons recline on carpeted platforms, enjoying drinks and snacks. Consider stopping here for a tea break en route to the largely residential Tourbet El Bey neighborhood, named after the Ottoman-built mausoleum at its heart. Two dars of architectural and historical significance are also located here: Dar Othman, built for a successful pirate and politician in the 16th century, and Dar Hussein, an 18th-century mansion that now houses the National Heritage Institute.
To Bargain or Not to Bargain?
Nowadays, a non-negotiable price tag is the norm in most boutiques in Tunis, including most businesses in the medina. Rugs, however, are an exception (never pay the first price cited by a rug salesman), as are some handicrafts. If you want to experience haggling while in the medina, check stock in various shops to gauge the quality and standard asking price. Once you identify what you want and how much you believe it is worth, ask the shopkeeper to propose their price. If you find it too high, express your thoughts and ask if they would accept less. If the price appears flexible, attempt to bargain it down by 20% to 30%—but always remain polite rather than aggressive, keeping in mind that shopkeepers here are likely less affluent than you and in need of healthy profit margins.
Staying in the Tunis Medina
The medina has approximately 20,000 permanent residents, primarily located in the El Hafsia and Tourbet El Bey neighborhoods. Additionally, there is a growing number of boutique hotels in traditional dars that welcome travelers. Overnight stays at these can provide a wonderful experience; however, it is important to note that very few of the medina’s cafes and eateries remain open in the evening, with the streets often deserted after dark. Alluring choices include L’Hôtel Dar El Jeld near the Kasbah; Dar 24, Dar Ben Gacem, and La Chambre Bleue in El Hafsia; and El Patio Courtyard House in Tourbet El Bey.
