The sleek Al Boraq, Africa’s first high-speed train, now connects two very different but equally fascinating Moroccan cities – laid-back Tangier, sitting at the crossroads of Europe and Africa, the Mediterranean and the Atlantic, and frenetic Casablanca, the country’s economic hub and architectural treasure trove.
The train, inaugurated by Morocco’s King Mohammed VI and French president Emmanuel Macron in November 2018, runs at speeds of up to 320km/h between the glossy new Tanger Gare and Casa Voyageurs stations, stopping at the industrial city of Kenitra and the capital Rabat, cutting the five-hour journey to around two hours. Now that you can zip between cities, you can pack more into your stay.
Top Things to Do in Tangier
From 1924 to 1956, when Morocco gained independence from France, Tangier was an International Zone, a bohemian enclave fabled for its hedonistic excesses, attracting artists, writers, and rock stars. Today, after decades in decline, the city’s story is changing. There’s a new port and luxury marina, hotels are sprouting around the Corniche and the medina is getting a facelift.
Start by exploring the Kasbah, the highest and oldest part of the medina, a blend of shady alleys and sun-filled squares. Step through the Bab Al Bahr for views over the Straits of Gibraltar and stop off at the recently renovated Kasbah Museum of Mediterranean Cultures, set in a former sultan’s palace.
Dip down into the medina, past Café Baba on Rue Zaitouni – where a photo of the Rolling Stones’ Keith Richards, marijuana pipe in hand, still has pride of place – to the hubbub of the medina’s main square, the Petit Socco, where the terrace of the Café Tingis on Rue Almohades is perfect for people-watching.
Or follow the ancient walls to the Bab Kasbah, stopping off to shop-til-you-drop at Las Chicas, Tangier’s first concept store, before meandering down Rue de la Kasbah to Place du 9 Avril 1947, otherwise known as the Grand Socco. This bustling square links the medina to the ville nouvelle (the new city), where the art-deco Cinema Rif has been reinvented as the Cinematheque de Tanger, featuring an eclectic film program and a cool cafe.
Nearby, the Grand Hôtel Villa de France has been restored to its former glory. When Matisse painted the view from room 313, there wasn’t the choking traffic, but the Anglican church of St Andrew’s remains unchanged.
At the start of the Corniche, a broad curve of golden sand sits the new Tanja Marina Bay, Morocco’s first urban marina, with space for super-yachts and restaurants such as La Table du Marché and Paul. On a clear day, you can see the whitewashed Spanish town of Tarifa, just 45 minutes away by ferry.
For literature lovers, there’s a room dedicated to Paul Bowles – author of The Sheltering Sky who made the city his home for more than 50 years – at the Tangier American Legation Museum in the medina (itself the USA’s oldest diplomatic property), while William S Burroughs wrote Naked Lunch at the Hotel El Muniria. You can follow in their footsteps on a tour with Plan-it Morocco, stopping off at literary haunts such as the Gran Café de Paris.
Where to Eat in Tangier
Tangier has a wealth of terraces where you can sip a mint tea. Choose your chai or tuck into authentic Moroccan dishes in Salon Bleu’s intimate dining spaces or on the sun-filled roof terrace overlooking the Place de la Kasbah and the ocean. Go à la carte or opt for the three-course fixed-price menu, featuring fresh salads, tajines, and almond pastries. Even with a surge of international restaurants, Tangier has stayed true to its Moroccan roots, offering a bounty of places to eat like a local.
Where to Sleep in Tangier
Hôtel La Maison Blanche is a beautifully restored riad conveniently located near the Bab Kasbah. Each of the nine rooms is individually decorated, and breakfast – including Moroccan breads and French pastries – is served on the roof terrace along with 360-degree views. The multilingual owner Aziz is extremely knowledgeable about Tangier and its surroundings, and can help with tours to Asilah, Tetouan, and Chefchaouen.
Cool Things to Do in Casablanca
Perhaps most famous for its namesake film – actually shot in a Hollywood studio – Casablanca, dubbed the ‘white city’, is Morocco’s largest metropolis, blending traditional and modern infrastructures.
During Morocco’s years as a French Protectorate, French architect and urban planner Henri Prost was invited to develop a city worthy of the country’s economic capital, engaging some of Europe’s top architects. Their legacy can still be seen in the city’s stunning architecture, a unique mix of neoclassical, art deco, neo-Moorish, and modern styles. By the 1990s, many buildings were either falling into elegant disrepair or being demolished for new tower blocks. Local architects formed Casamémorie to campaign for preservation, including a bid for UNESCO World Heritage status. If you’re not in the city for their annual heritage days (which occur in June), consider arranging a private architectural tour (no charge but donations welcome). In the heart of the art-deco district, the Abderrahman Slaoui Foundation Museum showcases a beautiful collection of Moroccan decorative arts and has temporary exhibitions. The top-floor cafe is ideal for a sightseeing break.
Locals gather at Place Mohammed V, surrounded by impressive buildings like the Moorish-inspired Palais de Justice and the ultra-modern Grand Theatre de Casablanca, which will become the largest multipurpose theatre in Africa when it opens soon. Nearby, the finishing touches are being completed at the lush Parc de la Ligue Arabe and the adjacent Cathédrale du Sacré Coeur, a striking mix of architectural styles set to reopen as a cultural center.
The bustling Place des Nations Unies serves as the meeting point for the city’s major thoroughfares, featuring a futuristic dome created by French-Moroccan architect Jean-François Zevaco, currently undergoing renovations along with the underpass that will also serve as an exhibition space. In the northeast corner, the clock tower marks the entrance to the whitewashed 19th-century old medina, perfect for a leisurely stroll while spotting a mosque, church, and synagogue side by side.
Hail a petit taxi to the Quartier Habous, the charming French-built ‘new medina,’ to explore the scenic souk and the Mahakma du Pasha, a grand courthouse from the 1950s built in ornate Moorish style. Treat yourself to something sweet at the legendary Pâtisserie Bennis Habous – perhaps cornes de gazelle (crescent-shaped pastries filled with almond paste and orange-blossom water).
Hassan II Mosque Tour
Take the hour-long tour of the stunning Hassan II Mosque, perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Atlantic. It’s one of only two mosques in Morocco open to non-Muslims and showcases the finest Moroccan crafts, including dazzling colourful geometric zellige tiles, hand-carved wood, and sprawling marble floors.
Where to Eat in Casablanca
Enjoy a traditional Moroccan breakfast, such as eggs with khlii (Moroccan dried meat), at the charming garden restaurant of La Sqala, set in an 18th-century bastion behind the medina’s whitewashed ramparts. In the evening, take a sunset stroll along the waterfront Corniche to Le Cabestan, which offers a French Riviera feel and a Mediterranean menu featuring freshly caught seafood.
Where to Sleep in Casablanca
A 1930s villa, Hotel Le Doge & Spa has been meticulously restored to its former art-deco glory, showcasing a stunning spiral staircase and 16 distinctive rooms, all adorned with bold colors and period furnishings, complemented by a Moroccan restaurant, rooftop terrace, and marble hammam. Tucked down a quiet residential street, it’s conveniently located within walking distance of the city’s key sights.
Secure Your Train Ticket
The current website of ONCF, the Moroccan railways operator, does not accept non-Moroccan credit cards. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase your tickets in advance at the station using cash or through an agency.
