Discovering Tunisia’s Berber Culture
Tunisia’s Berber community, historically overlooked, has gained recognition since the 2011 revolution. This resurgence is attributed to numerous Berber organizations dedicated to promoting their social and cultural heritage.
The enthusiasm for Berber culture has led to a growing interest in Tamazight, the Berber language, alongside their unique cuisine, intricate handicrafts, and fascinating architecture. This renewed interest not only captivates Tunisians keen to explore their Berber roots but also attracts visitors eager to delve into the country’s cultural heritage.
Centuries-old Berber villages are scattered throughout Tunisia. Designed for defense against invaders, these settlements were often situated on fortified mountaintops or constructed underground as troglodyte dwellings. Today, many of these ancient stone buildings stand abandoned as inhabitants migrate to newly built satellite towns featuring modern architecture.
The mystical troglodyte homes and formidable ksour (plural of ksar – a fortress-like structure typical of Berber architecture) have been transformed into film sets for the iconic Star Wars series. This surge in silver-screen tourism inevitably attracts numerous visitors to these film locations, leading to the restoration of ancient structures, which have been converted into guesthouses and museums, thereby preserving the unique Berber architecture and rich heritage.
No matter where you explore in Tunisia, the Berber towns, sites, and attractions are sure to inspire a fascinating journey into the culture and traditions of its indigenous people.
Central Tunisia: Panoramic Views from Takrouna and Kesra
Takrouna stands out as perhaps the most frequented of Tunisia’s Berber villages, notably due to its proximity to Tunis—just 90 km away. Perched 200 meters above sea level on a rocky outcrop, this nearly abandoned village offers a challenging climb rewarded with breathtaking vistas of the Gulf of Hammamet to the east and the Djebel Zaghouan mountains to the north. The southern view displays the alluvial plains of Kairouan adorned with neatly arranged olive groves.
Savor the 180-degree views while enjoying a glass of hot mint tea at Le Rocher Bleu, a rustic café showcasing stone floors decorated with vibrant Berber carpets. While there, consider visiting the small eco-museum adjacent to the café (available upon request). The Dar Gmach Museum features a collection of traditional Berber pottery, tools, and household artifacts.
The town of Kesra, located in Tunisia’s interior, is the highest Berber village at an altitude of 966 meters. Reaching Kesra requires navigating a winding road through Aleppo pine forests. As you ascend, vivid colors adorn the steps, which are inscribed with letters from the Berber alphabet, alleviating the effort of climbing. In the heart of the old town, an ancient Byzantine fort has been adapted into a Museum of Traditional Heritage. This museum showcases examples of Berber pottery and textiles while informational panels elucidate traditional weaving practices and rituals associated with significant life events, including births, circumcisions, weddings, and funerals.
Guellala: A Hub for Pottery on the Island of Djerba
Guellala, the only Berber town on the island of Djerba, is renowned for its earthenware pottery, a craft that has thrived here for centuries. Although Guellala once boasted hundreds of potters, only a few remain actively crafting in their workshops today. Perched on a hill overlooking the town, the Guellala Museum features a lovely colonnaded courtyard adorned with bougainvillea, housing traditional tools, garments, and everyday items from the past. Life-size figures throughout the museum depict scenes of daily activities, including fishing, weaving, olive oil production, and wedding ceremonies.
Gates to the Tunisian Sahara: Matmata, Tamezret, and Toujane
Matmata, located southwest of Gabes, hovers at the edge of the Sahara desert at an elevation of 600 meters, offering views of the Dahar Mountains. Notably famous for its troglodyte homes dug into vast pits interconnected by hidden passageways and open-air courtyards, this unique Berber architecture provides shelter from intense heat while retaining warmth in winter. Some local Berber families welcome visitors into their homes (with a nominal donation). At Dar Taoufik, on the way to Tamezret, you can tour underground chambers, observe traditional tools and earthenware, and sample locally-produced olive oil, honey, and fresh tabouna bread.
Moreover, Matmata is a popular destination partly because of its significance in the first Star Wars film, where Hotel Sidi Driss was depicted as Luke Skywalker’s home. Today, the hotel accommodates casual visitors and overnight guests in functional rooms. The courtyard features robot-like props from the film, serving as memorabilia, alongside photographs of George Lucas, Mark Hamill, and Harrison Ford taken during filming.
Tamezret: A Glimpse into Traditional Architecture
Adjacent to Matmata lies Tamezret, a Berber town characterized by crumbling stone houses with vivid blue windows and doors. Below this hilltop community are a series of disused tunnels that historically served defensive purposes. Observe the fascinating Berber symbols, representative of Christian origins, which can be found painted or engraved on walls and doorways. Mongi Bouras, the founder of the town’s Berber Museum, provides insights into traditional jewelry, clothing, and wedding attire, as well as hosting traditional Berber dinners upon request.
Toujane, another charming Berber village, is a 45-minute drive away. Most residents now inhabit Toujane Nouvelle, a town featuring modern buildings. The old town is uniquely positioned on a hillside overlooking a valley and consists of walled compounds concealing inner courtyards with arched doorways. Keep an eye out for Berber women busy weaving. The emptied troglodyte homes flanking the village perimeter reveal remnants of the past. Local shops along the main road offer a variety of colorful kilims and rugs, while the old olive mill represents the traditional methods once used to produce flavorful olive oil. For adventure seekers, a hiking path lined with thyme and rosemary leads up to the ksar on a mountain peak, offering stunning 360-degree views of the Dahar Mountains.
Delve into the Deep South: Ksar Ouled Soltane, Douiret, and Chenini
Tataouine is known among Star Wars fans as the town that inspired the name of Luke Skywalker’s home, even though most desert scenes were primarily filmed in Matmata. Tataouine serves as the gateway to other significant destinations within the Sahara, highlighted by lively markets held every Monday and Thursday. However, it primarily functions as a transit point for travelers heading toward the ksour region.
Traveling south for approximately 24 km brings you to Ksar Ouled Soltane, one of the Tataouine district’s most remarkable attractions. This impressive, well-preserved ksar is notable for its multi-level structure, rising up to four stories and featuring vaulted roofs and numerous courtyards linked by exterior stairways. Each floor of this fortified building houses a ghorfa, a compartment that historically stored valuable grains and food supplies, safeguarding them from potential thieves. Fans of Star Wars may recognize this building as Anakin Skywalker’s slave quarters in The Phantom Menace.
Southwest of Tataouine, you will find Douiret, another mountaintop Berber village, largely in ruins, though it still retains an almost invisible ksar that appears to be carved from the mountain. Amidst the stone structures and a few troglodyte homes, the whitewashed mosque boldly stands as the centerpiece at the town’s base.
Chenini is another well-traveled destination on the tourist pathway. The 12th-century fortress-like ruins are nestled atop a mountain ridge encircled by a series of fortified walls. Within these walls, troglodyte dwellings with charming stone courtyards and vaulted granaries can be located. Staying until sunset is a must, as the vibrant hues of the setting sun cast a golden glow over the surrounding mountain peaks.
