Discover Franconia: A Hidden Gem in Germany

German wine: Riesling? German food: bratwurst? Better put those generalizations away; you need to explore more. Specifically, venture into the under-explored medieval splendor of Frickenhausen in Franconia, the verdant vineyards of Sulzfeld and Iphofen, the romantic charm of Würzburg with its historical bridge dedicated to convivial wine drinkers, and the delightful Naumburg and Freyburg in the Saale-Unstrut region for bubbles, blissful brunches, and boating.

If you’re not feeling the gemütlichkeit (the German equivalent of hygge) after this sensory indulgence in an adorable Grimms’ fairy-tale setting, you’d better check your pulse.

Figure Out Franconia

Many visitors to Germany gush over Bavaria without realizing that the northwestern part of the state contains Franconia. It is essential to know that Franconians are quite particular about being considered Bavarians—despite the fact that between 1803 and 1806, Franconia was indeed part of the Kingdom of Bavaria. As you enter Franconia, you’ll notice some subtle differences, such as the predominance of a red-and-white flag rather than the Bavarian blue-and-white one. Additionally, a wine bottle similar in style to the Portuguese Mateus rosé, known as a Bocksbeutel, symbolizes excellence here. Only Franconian wines meeting minimum quality standards can be sold in a Bocksbeutel, a reassuring sight with a design dating back to the 16th century. In Franconia, the prominent grape is Silvaner, in contrast to Riesling, which dominates most of Germany. You’ll find no shortage of Silvaner in this wine region, expressing the unique shell limestone terroir. With approximately 60 different wine varietals produced here, it’s worthwhile to seek a driver and bring your appetite.

Frickenhausen: Too Fricken Cute

Imagine Hansel and Gretel grew up and invented a tiny village renowned for its wine festivals and quaint charm, and you’re getting close to picturing Frickenhausen. There are no tour groups here—big buses won’t even fit under some medieval archways and bridges. You’ll hear church bells (and possibly all night in some accommodations), and smell the enticing aroma of slow-cooked pork and dumplings wafting amidst the turreted rooftops.

What to Eat:

• Fish from the nearby Main River prepared with local ingredients at Ehrbar Weinstube pairs wonderfully with Silvaner.
• Start with a Franconian taster plate to get your bearings, featuring Franconian pork bratwurst wrapped in a croissant, the Grupfter spread (a mix of Camembert, butter, fresh cream, cumin, and paprika), and balls of goose fat with fried onion! Don’t miss the opportunity to enjoy potato or bread dumplings here.

What to Drink:

Taste a 2017 Meintzinger Silvaner Trocken from Weingut & Hotel Meintzinger, located in a historically atmospheric winery that has been transformed into an upmarket hotel. This light, dry white wine has delightful aromas of melon, nuances of apples, pears, and a hint of elderberry, making it a refreshing pairing for fish.

Sulzfeld and Iphofen: Wine Tours with a Difference

The enchanted theme of Franconia extends into the intricate designs of its wineries. At Weingut Brennfleck in Sulzfeld, the baroque exterior contrasts beautifully with the medieval manor-house interior. This stylish, family-owned winery won an architectural award for blending modernity with the old building. Its vineyard dates back to 1591, and stepping into the winery’s private courtyard with landscaped gardens and sculptures feels like being at a designer photo shoot. On a tour of the candlelit cellar, you’ll find yourself in a setting right out of a New Romantic music video. Brennfleck is renowned for its white wines, with Silvaner being a specialty, and focuses on quality over quantity across 30 hectares of diverse vines.

Würzburg: Capital Drinking on Germany’s Oldest Stone Bridge

Franconia’s capital city of Würzburg attracts wine travelers with its unique offerings. Over 80% of the wine produced here is consumed right in the town, primarily on the pedestrianized Alte Mainbrücke (Old Bridge). Dating from 1543, this bridge arches gracefully over the River Main, adorned with 12 statues of saints and lampposts overflowing with colorful flowers. This creates a lively atmosphere where locals and visitors mingle with glasses of wine purchased from the charming bars at either end of the bridge.

If you can pull yourself away from the conviviality, splendid views await, such as from Festung Marienberg, a baroque fortress overlooking Würzburg. Also, dedicate time to explore the magnificent Würzburg Residenz, a palatial structure influenced by Versailles and declared a World Heritage Site in 1981. Marvel at the intricate Italian frescoes and grand staircases inside; and don’t forget about the atmospheric winery in the cellar, Staatlicher Hofkeller, dating back to 1128.

What to Eat:

A Michelin-starred restaurant in a Würzburg winery? That’s Reisers am Stein. This scenic venue is perfect for unwinding after hiking the nearby Stein-Wein-Pfad, a 4km stone path through Würzburg’s vineyards. Be sure to try the local stained saibling (char fish) paired with Franconian antipasti, pumperknickel, apple chutney, and horseradish.

What to Drink:

Definitely consider something from Weingut am Stein, the organic biodynamic winery where Reisers is located. Their sparkling 2014er Silvaner Brut, crafted from Silvaner and Pinot grapes, is a must-try.

Naumburg and Freyburg: The Fairy-Tale Finish with a Sail on the Saale

The fairy-tale fun continues as you venture to the Saale-Unstrut Region, where Freyburg boasts Germany’s largest sparkling wine producer, Rotkäppchen (translating to ‘Little Red Riding Hood’). This winery also owns the German branch of Mumm. Don’t miss a guided tour of the astounding five-story cellar at Rotkäppchen Sektellerei, which features the largest cuvée barrel in the world and a rock-stadium elegance.

For a leisurely experience between tastings, Naumburg Cathedral, with its Gothic splendor, will captivate culture lovers. Alternatively, enjoy boating on the Saale River, leading to a delightful reward with a huge slab of apfelstrudel on the sunny, vine-covered terrace at Saalhäuser Weinstuben, part of Landesweingut Kloster Pforta, a beautiful winery with a history dating back to 1137.

What to Eat:

Be sure to seek out Zwiebelkuchen, a savory onion cake made with diced bacon, cream, and caraway seeds, typically available in early autumn. It’s traditional for South-Central German family winemakers to serve it alongside new wine. Otherwise, enjoy a meal at Gasthof Zufriedenheit in Naumburg, where you can savor a chestnut mousse with Valrhona chocolate and two kinds of pear.

What to Drink:

Pair your pear dessert with the 2015 white Burgundy Beerenauslese from Freyburger Edelacker, Winery Pawis, which offers fruity, honey notes for a sweet finish to your culinary journey.