Exploring the Simien Mountains in Ethiopia

Ethiopia is a land of legends and mystery—home to the Queen of Sheba and the Ark of the Covenant. Moreover, the landscape itself is mesmerizing. The far north features the Simien Mountains—a mystical world of primeval forests, misty peaks, bizarre plants, and exotic creatures. Therefore, trekking through these stunning highlands is akin to stepping into an otherworldly paradise.

Dramatic Landscapes

Violent volcanic eruptions 40 million years ago created the Simien Mountains massif, which soars to over 4500m in northern Ethiopia. Over millennia, erosive forces have sculpted jagged pinnacles, deep ravines, and volcanic plugs. Treks of between five and ten days along high-altitude escarpments and through fertile lowlands offer the best way to appreciate the incredible diversity of the Simiens, much of which is protected as part of Simien Mountains National Park.

Steep ascents lead to lush plateaus populated with giant lobelias—unique fleshy-leaved plants reaching heights of 3m, evoking images of dinosaurs and ancient times. The escarpment vistas are filled with sheer cliffs, plunging waterfalls, and rocky turrets emerging from the forested valleys below. Consequently, ribbons of mist drift over the ground while vultures and ravens cruise the skies, creating a strangely beautiful yet primal atmosphere.

As you descend from the escarpment, the landscape transforms dramatically, dropping over 2000m into the lowlands. These valleys are still over 2000m in altitude. Vibrantly coloured red hot poker plants cover the mountain slopes, while desert-style cactus trees and groves of aloe vera line the trail. Cultivated fields of golden canola flowers and feathery green tef are peppered with tropical-style giant ficus and palm trees.

Endemic Wildlife

In the highlands of Ethiopia, a rare and exotic assortment of wildlife thrives. This includes the gelada (also known as the ‘bleeding heart baboon’), the elusive Ethiopian wolf, the majestic Walia ibex, and the giant Lammergeier (a bearded vulture with a 3m wingspan). There’s a good chance of spotting these remarkable creatures and more on a trek through the Simien Mountains.

With expressive faces and delightful antics, geladas are a sight to behold. Once hunted almost to extinction, these monkeys are now a protected species found only in the Simiens. Living in groups of more than one hundred, they prefer the escarpments, where they navigate the cliffs like skilled acrobats. Distinctively, the gelada has a scarlet patch of skin on its chest, leading to its ‘bleeding heart’ nickname. It is possible to get remarkably close to these wild animals, especially those near Sankabar (3600m) and Chenek (3620m).

The Ethiopian wolf, or Simien fox, is critically endangered, with an estimated population of fewer than 50 in the Simien Mountains and approximately 400 in all of Ethiopia (most reside in Bale Mountains National Park in southern Ethiopia). The primary threat to the wolf’s survival comes from habitat destruction due to agricultural expansion into the afro-alpine zone. Additionally, endangered species like the Walia ibex, a large deer-like animal with impressively long, ridged horns, have also been adversely affected. Typically found in steep rocky terrains, they can often be spotted grazing at Chenek, just below the escarpment.

The Roof of Africa

Due to its vastness, the mighty mountain massif of the Simien Mountains is affectionately called the ‘roof of Africa’. Ras Dashen, at 4543m, is Ethiopia’s highest peak and its crowning glory.

Trekking to the summit presents a challenge, although it is not technically demanding. Summit attempts typically commence from the local village of Ambiko (3170m) along the Meshehe River. True to summit day traditions, hiking begins well before dawn. The first few hours are cold, dark, and wrapped in silence, where headlamps illuminate a path that ascends steadily for 10km through farmland, giant lobelia forests, and alpine meadows. Finally, after six hours of continuous climbing, a short scramble up a rocky wall leads to the summit. The view is nothing short of outstanding—a panoramic vista of peaks, gullies, farmlands, and forests stretching into the distant haze of Eritrea. Standing atop Ethiopia’s highest peak truly feels as though you’re on the roof of Africa.

Make it Happen

The driest time of year for hiking is from December to March. However, at the end of the rainy season in October, the land flourishes in green wonder. Wildflowers bloom in August and can last well into October.

Organized trekking tours can ease the process by managing everything from equipment to permits and supplies. Nonetheless, independent trekking is also straightforward to arrange. All logistics can be coordinated at the Simien Mountains National Park headquarters in Debark, including entrance fees, drop-offs, and pickups at trail access points, as well as hiring camping gear, guides, scouts, cooks, and mules.

According to park regulations, scouts (armed park rangers) must accompany trekkers, although the greatest danger participants face is altitude sickness. The scouts are fit individuals, often war veterans, who expertly navigate steep hillsides, sometimes wearing ill-fitting plastic sandals, and proudly pose with their AK-47s for photographs.