The Emerald Isle might be small in size, but it packs a powerful historical punch. Hit the road on a fascinating five-day trip through the picturesque landscapes, villages, towns, and cities of Ireland’s Ancient East en route from Dublin to Waterford. This journey includes visits to Neolithic burial tombs, high crosses, castles, cathedrals, and traverses 560km across five millennia of history.
Day 1
Dublin
Kick off in the Irish capital with an overview of the country’s history at the National Museum of Ireland – Archaeology. Just some of its highlights are the world’s most complete collection of medieval Celtic metalwork and four preserved Iron Age ‘bog bodies’ with intact features such as fingernails. Other exhibitions include Medieval Ireland and Viking Ireland, featuring finds excavated at Dublin’s Wood Quay.
Brú na Bóinne
A UNESCO World Heritage-listed wonder from around 3200 BC, the vast Neolithic necropolis Brú na Bóinne, located 50km north of Dublin, predates both Stonehenge (by a millennium) and the Great Pyramids of Egypt (by six centuries). In fertile farmland scattered with standing stones, the complex encompasses three main burial tombs: Newgrange, a white quartzite-encircled grass-topped passage tomb measuring 80m in diameter and 13m high, which aligns with the winter solstice; Knowth, containing extraordinary passage-grave art; and sheep-roamed Dowth.
Less than 10km west, in the 18th-century town of Slane, the coaching inn Conyngham Arms makes for a charming overnight stop.
Day 2
Hill of Slane
The Hill of Slane is where St. Patrick allegedly lit a paschal (Easter) fire in 433 against the ruling of the Irish high king. He described the Holy Trinity by plucking a shamrock to illustrate the paradox of the Father, Son, and Holy Spirit in one, kindling Christianity in Ireland. Although only faint remnants of subsequent religious buildings remain, the views are sublime.
Hill of Tara
Once the home of ancient Ireland’s druids and later its high kings, the Hill of Tara is located 24km south of Slane. This sacred site is among the most important in Europe, featuring prehistoric burial mounds and a Stone Age passage tomb dating back 5000 years. It’s steeped in Irish folklore and history, and visiting the grounds is free.
Glendalough
Glendalough’s Irish name, Gleann dá Loch, means ‘Valley of the Two Lakes’. The Upper and Lower lakes in this scenic spot, 100km south of Tara—along with wild Wicklow Mountains scenery and a cache of religious relics—are magical. In 498, St. Kevin established a monastery here on the site of a Bronze Age tomb, and it lasted until the 17th century. The Glendalough Visitor Centre (visitwicklow.ie/item/glendalough-visitor-centre) is a mine of information. Next door, the comfortable Glendalough Hotel makes for a convenient base.
Day 3
Moone
Amid stone ruins 50km west of Glendalough, stop to see the distinctive Moone High Cross. Dating from the 8th or 9th century, it’s renowned for its intricately carved biblical scenes.
Browne’s Hill Dolmen
Topped by Europe’s largest capstone, weighing over 100 tonnes, the 5000-year-old granite portal dolmen (tomb chamber) Browne’s Hill Dolmen, situated approximately 20km south of Moone, is one of Ireland’s most intriguing prehistoric monuments.
Enniscorthy
A pivotal chapter in Irish history played out at Vinegar Hill, 53km south of Browne’s Hill, during the 1798 rebellion against British rule. Nearby, the National 1798 Rebellion Centre features evocative displays. The rebels used Norman-built Enniscorthy Castle as a prison; it is now a museum with superb rooftop views.
Wexford town
Named Waesfjord (‘harbour of mudflats’) by the Vikings, who are thought to have landed here around 850, Wexford town is located 22km south of Enniscorthy. Traces of the fort built by the Normans, who conquered it in 1169, are still visible in the grounds of the Irish National Heritage Park open-air museum.
Central Whites of Wexford offers stylish rooms, restaurants, and bars.
Day 4
Jerpoint Abbey
Medieval stone carvings are a highlight of the atmospheric Cistercian ruins of the 12th-century-founded Jerpoint Abbey, approximately 60km northwest of Wexford, in idyllic rural surroundings.
Kilkenny
Set on the swirling River Nore with a web of narrow laneways, Kilkenny is a 20km hop north from Jerpoint Abbey and is a contender for Ireland’s most spectacular city. Its ‘medieval mile’ stretches between the 12th-century-established Kilkenny Castle and the monumental Cathedral of St Canice, located on the site of a 6th-century abbey founded by St Canice, Kilkenny’s patron saint. Today, it’s a creative hub, with works showcased at the National Craft Gallery.
Dunmore Cave
Glittering stalagmite and stalactite-filled Dunmore Cave is just a quick 10km trip north. History runs deep here: in 928, Vikings slaughtered 1000 people at nearby ring forts, and survivors sheltered here until the Vikings smoked them out. Excavations in 1973 uncovered remains and Viking coins.
In Cashel, 60km southwest, appealing accommodation options include boutique Baileys Hotel.
Day 5
Rock of Cashel
The soaring Rock of Cashel boasts an extraordinary collection of ancient fortifications enclosed by lime mortar walls and served as a seat of power for kings and clergy for over 1000 years. Enter via the 15th-century Hall of the Vicars Choral, visit the 13th-century cathedral where its choristers sang, and don’t miss the circa 11th-century round tower or Ireland’s first Romanesque chapel, the 1127-built Cormac’s Chapel.
Cahir
With a moat, turrets, and dungeons, the 1142-founded Cahir Castle, located 20km south of Cashel, is one of Ireland’s largest. Fast-forward several centuries to Cahir’s romantic, thatched-roofed Swiss Cottage, built in 1810 amid flowering gardens in Regency Picturesque style.
Waterford
Ireland’s oldest city, Waterford, established as a Viking port in 914, is a fitting last stop on this history-filled trip. Its ‘Viking Triangle’ is home to three absorbing museums: the Medieval Museum; the Georgian mansion housing the Bishop’s Palace, detailing Waterford’s history from 1700 to 1970; and Ireland’s oldest complete building, the 13th-century Reginald’s Tower, featuring Viking exhibits.
Waterford’s most historic accommodation is the 19th-century Waterford Castle, situated on its own private island and accessible by a 24-hour car ferry.
From Waterford, it’s 172km back to Dublin, or you can continue your Irish odyssey by travelling 148km west to Kinsale to set out on the epic Wild Atlantic Way (ireland.com/wild-atlantic-way).
