Exploring Bequia: An Authentic Caribbean Gem
Bequia, one of the more off-the-beaten-path islands in the already remote Grenadine Islands in the Caribbean, is a world away from international resorts and artificial smiles. Here, island life continues at a leisurely pace, nestled between steep green mountains and pristine white sand bays. Pronounced ‘Beck-way’, this charming destination is waiting to be discovered.
Why Bequia Stands Out
Bequia is not your average Caribbean island. The seven by two-mile island resembles a lazy lightning flash when seen from a small plane circling overhead, particularly when traveling from Barbados (a direct flight takes about an hour). This island lacks the sleek design of luxury resorts and high-profile beach bars—there was no electricity until the 1960s and no roads until the 1980s (and even today, the term ‘roads’ is generous). It feels like a step back in time, where a pig or some goats may greet newcomers at the tiny airport terminal alongside flatbed trucks acting as taxis.
Bequia’s Unique Landscape
This slender island boasts a steep mountain range running down the center like a knobby spine, with roads winding steeply over this rugged terrain. The bumpy lanes drop almost vertically down to the tranquil leeward beaches. On the west side, visitors can relax at Princess Margaret Beach, which was named after the British princess who visited in the 1950s. The water here is Caribbean blue, clear, and calm, backed by a lush forest of palm trees and a series of laid-back bars resembling driftwood shacks. Occasionally, a mega-yacht may appear on the horizon, and if celebrities happen to visit, they often enjoy a casual swim and a low-key beer.
Bequia remains part of the British Commonwealth. Historic British fortifications, originally erected to fend off pirates, along with 18th-century cannons can still be found at Hamilton Fort, located on the island’s northwestern tip. Queen Elizabeth even made a brief visit in the 1980s.
Staying in Bequia
Bequia Beach Hotel (bequiabeachhotel.com), located on the eastern Atlantic coast, is the most prominent hotel on the island. Its pastel-colored colonial design evokes a sense of adventure and grace. Unique features like a hot air balloon basket reception desk and a bar serving some of the best rum punch on the island make it a must-visit.
On the more populous west coast, on the outskirts of the capital Port Elizabeth, visitors will find various hostels and smaller hotels. A notable option is The Frangipani (frangipanibequia.com), a local home-turned-hotel at Admiralty Bay, alongside the cozy four-roomed Sweet Retreat Hotel located just behind Lower Bay (bequiasweetretreathotel.com).
Dining and Nightlife
The coastal wooden walkway connecting Princess Margaret Beach and Port Elizabeth offers a pleasant stroll lined with vibrant restaurants and bars. In Port Elizabeth, the informal garden terraces create an inviting atmosphere that blends the line between bar and home. Notable dining spots include Papa’s, in operation since 2010, featuring a terrace with sweeping views of the picturesque harbor (784-457-3443; Mon-Fri 4pm-late, Sat 11am-late, Sunday open 5pm-late).
On the east coast, the Firefly Plantation Restaurant and Bagatelle at the Bequia Beach Hotel (bequiabeachhotel.com/dining) offer upscale dining experiences featuring grilled local fish, steaks, and curried conch dishes.
While Bequia is unique, it still possesses the essence of the Caribbean, resulting in rum shacks and bars along every sandy stretch. Keegans (keegansbequia.org) and La Plage (248-462-0240; 11am-midnight) near Lower Bay are excellent spots for enjoying a sundowner. Recently refurbished Jack’s Bar at Princess Margaret Beach brings a touch of elegance, resembling the posh establishments found on neighboring islands (facebook.com/JacksBarBequia).
Activities and Attractions
According to a local island guide named Gideon, ‘The island is too small for two girlfriends’. Nonetheless, it’s big enough for a few days of leisurely exploration, although a taxi tour can cover the highlights in just around three hours. Visitors can hike to the highest peak, Mount Peggy, where on clear days, breathtaking views of St Vincent and even Grenada are visible across the ocean. Locals frequently gather for sunset picnics here, so feel free to join them. For avid hikers, there are scenic pathways from Mount Peggy leading down to the calm waters of Lower Bay, traversing through lush jungles and hidden trails.
On the descent, visitors should stop by La Pompe, a quaint hamlet on the east coast, which is home to the island’s whaling museum. This museum features exhibits detailing the history of boat building and whaling on the island (Belmont Road, free entry). In the past, capturing a whale was a community-wide celebration, with local children excused from school for the day, as six men labored to bring in a whale longer than their 28-meter rowing boat entirely by hand. Despite varying opinions on whaling, the island’s fishermen still hunt, and this small museum highlights their rich seafaring heritage.
However, where Bequia truly shines is in the art of relaxation. Spend your days soaking on pristine sandy beaches, snorkeling around the island’s reefs, and planning boat rides to the busier island of St Vincent or enjoying day trips to the Tobago Cays—one of the Caribbean’s most stunning diving locations. Ultimately, there’s always tomorrow to explore more.
Getting Around Bequia
Bequia features an informal network of taxis, which can be either open-sided trucks or minivans often adorned with colorful proclamations of faith. While hotels provide bike rentals, the island’s main ridge is so steep that cycling can feel like quite a workout. Thankfully, Bequia is walkable—its two coasts are a mere two miles apart, and you certainly won’t be alone on the scenic pathways.
