Tokyo is dazzling, frenetic, and fashionably cool; however, there are times when the population crush and non-stop energy transforms this urban paradise into a pressure cooker. An easy escape is to head for the seaside in Kamakura and Yokohama, both easy day trips south of Tokyo.
Kamakura
Today, known for its relaxed vibe and surf scene, Kamakura once served as Japan’s capital from 1185 to 1333. Venerable Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines nestle amid the verdant hills that surround the town, providing an opportunity for easy hikes followed by foodie shopping and a dip in outdoor hot springs.
Giant Buddha and Surfboards
From Kamakura Station, the old-fashioned Enoden line trains rattle three stops past suburban houses to Hase, where Kamakura’s most famous sight, the iconic Daibutsu, is located. This 11.4m bronze statue of Amida Buddha, framed by forested hills and open sky, gazes serenely out to sea from his stone pedestal in the grounds of the 13th-century temple Kōtoku-in.
It’s worth lingering in Hase; its quaint streets lined with minka (old wooden houses) are a pleasure to explore. Some of the houses, such as Ichigeya (ichigeya-en.com), have been transformed into attractive cafes and gift shops. The hillside terraces and gardens of Hase-dera offer wonderful views of the bay and surrounding hills. Stroll along Yuigahama beach, where surfers ride the gentle waves, or hop on a board yourself. There are plenty of places to rent equipment, with enthusiasts at local spots able to clue you into the scene.
Hillside Hiking
Starting a short distance from the grounds of Kōtoku-in, the Daibutsu Hiking Course is a 3km trail leading up into the hills and connecting with Kita-Kamakura. It’s an easy and shaded route, and along the way, you can pause at the lovely Itsuki Garden (itsuki-garden.com), a cafe featuring multiple brick terraces swathed in forest greenery. Near the Kamakura end of the trail, follow the signs to Zeniarai-benten, a cave shrine dedicated to Benten, the goddess of good fortune. Here, join locals in the ritual of placing your money into a bamboo basket and washing it in the spring water, believed to bring financial success.
Shopping and Local Eats
Flush with the thought of extra cash, indulge in retail therapy along the lively shopping street Komachi-dōri, which runs from Kamakura Station towards the historic shrine Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū. Look out for souvenirs like Hato Sable, dove-shaped butter cookies sold by Toshimaya, and freshly made sembei (rice crackers) at Kamakura Ichibanya. For tasty breads and baked goods, search for Paradise Alley Bread & Co (cafecactus5139.com/paradisealley) in the daily Kamakura Farmers Market, a 10-minute walk south of the station towards the beach. Continuing in this direction, head north to locate the rustic restaurant Bonzō, known for its Michelin-starred handmade soba (buckwheat noodles).
Soak Under the Stars
After hiking and dining around Kamakura, hop back on the Enoden line to Inamuragasaki. A three-minute walk from the station, facing the beach, is Inamuragasaki Onsen (inamuragasaki-onsen.com), where soothing spa waters colored black with minerals await. For ¥1400, you can blissfully relax in a giant rotemburo (open-air bath) while gazing up at the starry skies.
Yokohama
Yokohama is Japan’s second-largest city, boasting a soothing bayside location, a blend of historic and contemporary architecture, interesting museums, and a booming craft beer industry. It is also home to the art festival Yokohama Triennale, returning in 2017.
Art and Architecture
‘Islands, Constellations and Galapagos’ is the theme for the 2017 Yokohama Triennale (yokohamatriennale.jp/2017). This contemporary art fest runs for three months from August 4th, providing an essential boost to the city’s already vibrant creative scene. Major venues hosting shows during the Triennale include Yokohma Museum of Art and BankART Studio NYK, both of which are wonderful galleries worth visiting year-round.
BankART Studio NYK, once a warehouse for the NYK shipping line, exemplifies how older architecture in Yokohama’s port area has adapted for modern use. A short walk away is Minato Mirai 21, meaning ‘port future’, showcasing a bold combination of contemporary and older buildings. This includes the 296m-tall Landmark Tower and the award-winning Ōsanbashi International Passenger Terminal, gracefully designed to mimic the ripples of ocean waves alongside weathered red-brick Akarenga Sōkō (yokohama-akarenga.jp), transformed into a modern shopping mall.
Quirky Museums
Minato Mirai 21 is home to a couple of fun museums that are particularly appealing if you’re traveling with kids or are playful at heart. The Cup Noodles Museum is creatively designed as a tribute to Momofuku Ando, the inventor of instant noodles. The place is popular, so arrive early to create your own Cup Noodle with personalized packaging and ingredients.
Another delight is the Hara Model Railway Museum. This features items from the 6000-piece collection of model trains and railway memorabilia gathered by Hara Nobutaro, a development engineer, over 80-plus years. The highlight is Ichiban Tetsumo Park, a 30m by 10m diorama that represents every kid’s dream train set, complete with over 450m of track and beautifully detailed models. Children can even enjoy the role of the chief operator of the trains.
Diverse Neighborhoods
There are several distinct districts worth exploring around Yokohama.
Yokohama was one of the first ports in Japan to open to international trade in 1859, becoming a major gateway for foreign influence. Among the early arrivals were Chinese traders, eventually leading to the establishment of Japan’s first and largest Chinatown. The area is a 500 sq meter enclave marked by five brightly decorated ‘Pailou’ gateways, with red and gold lanterns dangling over narrow lanes lined with over 500 restaurants. A recommended spot to try is Manchinrō Honten, serving tasty dim sum for over 100 years.
Motomachi-Yamate offers a chic shopping street, overlooked by a wooded bluff where several vintage European-style residences are preserved. This area housed some of the first foreigners who took up residence in the city in the late 19th century. You can alight at the Motomachi-Chūkagai metro station for easy access to either Chinatown or Motomachi-Yamate.
Around 2km southwest of Minato Mirai 21, the erstwhile red-light district of Koganechō now buzzes with young creatives and entrepreneurs transforming commercial spaces into compact art studios, galleries, shops, cafes, and bars. The annual art festival Koganechō Bazaar (koganecho.net) is a free exhibition of street art throughout the area.
Celebrating Craft Beer
Raise your glasses to Yokohama’s enthusiastic embrace of beer! The city is home to various microbreweries, such as Bashamichi Taproom and Yokohama Brewery, alongside several bars specializing in quality craft ales from across Japan. Mark your calendars for two annual beer-related events in the city: the Great Japan Beer Festival (beertaster.org) in September, and the Yokohama Oktoberfest held at Akarenga Sōkō in early October, featuring a wide selection of ales.
Make It Happen
JR Yokosuka-line trains connect Kamakura from Tokyo (¥920, 56 minutes) via Yokohama (¥340, 27 minutes). Alternatively, the Shōnan Shinjuku line runs from the west side of Tokyo (Shibuya, Shinjuku, and Ikebukuro, all ¥920) in about one hour, although select trains require a transfer at Ōfuna, one stop before Kita-Kamakura. For more planning and events information, check out the Yokohama Official Visitors’ Guide (yokohamajapan.com) and the Kamakura City Tourism Association (kamakura-info.jp).
