Experience Podgorica: A Two-Day Itinerary

Montenegro’s capital Podgorica resembles a teenager: vibrant and delightful, yet still uncertain about its identity and struggling to embrace its heritage. Over centuries, the city has suffered destruction, making its historical landmarks less prominent compared to other Balkan capitals. Nonetheless, Podgorica—formerly known as Titograd—has been striving for a modern urban image while evading strict labels.

With recent low-cost flights connecting Podgorica to Europe, many travelers pass through en route to the breathtaking Bay of Kotor along Montenegro’s Adriatic coast or the national parks in the northern highlands. However, dedicating a few days to experience the city’s hidden charms and easy-going Balkan lifestyle is well worth the time.

Day 1

Morning

Start your journey by diving into Podgorica’s past. Sip on a strong domestic coffee, known as ‘Turkish coffee’, in the Ottoman-era neighborhood of Stara Varoš while indulging in an apple pie at Pod Volat. Although not as renowned as the famous ancient cities along the Adriatic coast, Stara Varoš offers its own Oriental charm. As you stroll through the narrow streets, observe the 17th-century Sahat Kula (Clock Tower), one of the remaining Ottoman structures that weathered WWII.

The main pedestrian area is just a short walk away, across a bridge over the Ribnica River. Between the National Library and City Hall, visit the monument dedicated to Marko Miljanov, the former mayor of Podgorica. His legacy of čojstvo i junaštvo (humanity and bravery) serves as a guiding principle for the locals. Don’t miss the nearby Galerija Centar, where contemporary art exhibitions are often showcased. Take a moment to relax on one of the most romantic benches in Podgorica, adorned with a statue of the beloved Russian poet Pushkin.

Cross the Blaža Jovanovića bridge for a stunning view of Podgorica’s landmarks. To your right stands the striking Millennium Bridge, a modern symbol of the city, and to your left, the Hotel Podgorica (hotelpodgorica.co.me), designed by Montenegro’s first female architect Svetlana Kana Radević and perched on a cliff overlooking the confluence of the rivers.

Afternoon

Enjoy lunch at Hotel Podgorica’s sunny terrace, indulging in fine Montenegrin meals. Consider savoring popeci, a local meat delicacy, or if vegetarian, the delicious raštan (dark and crispy cabbage). After refueling, explore the popular hangout spot where the two rivers converge, complete with stairs and an old stone bridge over the Ribnica.

The St Peter of Cetinje Boulevard leads to the Podgorica City Museum (pgmuzeji.me), where a modest yet valuable collection features artifacts from archaeological sites, traditional costumes, and significant works by noted Montenegrin artists like Petar Lubarda.

Hidden beneath the Ribnica bridge next to the museum is Knjižara Karver, a charming little café that also serves as a bookstore. It’s the perfect spot for some downtime over coffee. For a more active afternoon, venture north to Gorica hill for a scenic forest park and a touching monument dedicated to WWII Partisan fighters.

Evening

Before night falls, visit the Cathedral of Christ’s Resurrection, located west of the Morača River. This cathedral boasts vibrant frescoes that depict biblical tales while also referencing local history, including a controversial depiction of Hell featuring figures resembling notable historical personalities.

On your return to the city center, cross a different bridge—preferably the Suspension Bridge, a quaint pedestrian crossing—offering a lovely view of the more contemporary bridges. Through the tranquil Njegoš Park, dedicated to Montenegro’s celebrated Prince-Bishop and poet, you will reach Bokeška and Njegoševa streets, where numerous pubs, cafes, and restaurants with inviting gardens await, perfect for concluding your day.

Day 2

Morning / Afternoon

It’s time to discover the picturesque surroundings of the city. If you’re feeling adventurous, rise early and embark on the ‘Circuit around Korita.’ This signposted panoramic route begins in Podgorica, passes through the Kuči region, and winds through the breathtaking cliffs of the Cijevna canyon. Completing the 65km circuit takes less than two hours by car, but consider experiencing part of it on foot. The Sokolovo Grlo (Falcon’s Gorge) viewpoint offers stunning vistas of the canyon accessible only by hike!

For a delightful lunch break, stop at the stylish Stara Kuća (starakuca.me) restaurant and savor local cuisine. Afterward, spend the afternoon exploring the road, dotted with charming Orthodox, Catholic, and Muslim villages.

If you prefer a more relaxed start, consider taking a taxi to visit the expansive Plantaže (plantaze.com) vineyards. Board the tourist train, which navigates through the lovely landscapes of Ćemovsko Polje, known among wine aficionados for its indigenous varieties such as Vranac and Krstač. The tour culminates in a unique experience—a visit to the Šipčanik wine cellar (complete with wine tasting and local delicacies). This historic military airbase was transformed in 2007, allowing visitors to stroll through a wine tunnel, averaging over 30 meters below ground.

After this delightful excursion, continue towards the Cijevna River to witness Montenegro’s very own Niagara Falls, where the powerful current plunges into the canyon’s depths. Relax at the Kuća Rakića restaurant and enjoy a traditional lunch menu. In the afternoon, visit the late 19th-century Orthodox Dajbabe Monastery, known for its church built into caves, expanded to create a cross-shaped interior within the hill.

Evening

Once back in Podgorica, start your evening at the park that once housed the Winter Palace of King Nikola I. Discover the right bank of the Morača River. Just across from University Park, marked by the towering monument of St Peter of Cetinje, lies Capital Plaza, featuring trendy spots including the first Hard Rock Café in the Western Balkans.

To the north, near St Peter of Cetinje Boulevard, you’ll find Roman Square, adorned with cafes and gardens where you can unwind with a bottle of Nikšićko, the local favorite beer. Additionally, there are plenty of vibrant venues for a casual night out adjacent to the cathedral. Street Bar (facebook.com/StreetBarPodgorica) is an excellent choice to enjoy smooth live jazz and cap off your evening.