Discover the Diverse Neighborhoods of Belgrade

Divide and conquer, they say. A metropolis of Belgrade’s size is best conquered by exploring its distinct, vivid neighborhoods. Spread out on both banks of the Sava and Danube rivers, each of them offers sites rich in history and culture and is hip and photogenic in its own way. Here’s a quick tour through the main districts of the Serbian capital.

Stari Grad (Old Town)

Let’s start with the basics. As you arrive in Belgrade, go for a stroll through Knez Mihailova street, the city’s main pedestrian zone lined with shops, cafes, and galleries. It leads on one end to the Kalemegdan Citadel that houses a wealth of attractions, including the Military Museum, Victor Monument, Ružica Church, Observatory, and Belgrade Zoo. Kalemegdan always treats visitors to stunning views over the Sava and Danube rivers’ confluence, the Great War Island nature reserve, and the distant contours of the charming Zemun neighborhood. Relax at the trendy Boho Bar across from the Observatory with its exotic jungle-like interior and soothing chill-out music.

Returning through Knez Mihailova to Republic Square on its other end, turn right into Kralja Petra street to experience traditional Serbian cuisine at Manufaktura. Don’t miss the chance to visit the Zepter Museum, which boasts a large collection of works by contemporary Serbian artists.

Dorćol

Approaching the historical Dorćol neighborhood from Republic Square, you’ll pass through Skadarlija, a former bohemian quarter and one of Belgrade’s main tourist attractions. Skadarlija has a storied past filled with actors and writers who once frequented its kafane (taverns) after performances at the nearby National Theatre. Nowadays, famous establishments such as Tri Šeira and Dva Jelena attempt to recreate that vibrant atmosphere with live gypsy music and reminiscent menus.

Parallel to Skadarlija is Cetinjska street, known for its eclectic clubs and bars. Check out Dvorištance or Zaokret, both nestled in the former brewery complex of Cetinjska 15. By day, cycle through the quiet, leafy streets of lower Dorćol along the Danube, discover the oldest house in Belgrade at Cara Dušana 10, browse the open-air Bajloni Market, or visit the interactive Museum of Science and Technology. Upper Dorćol is also great for boutique and gallery hopping.

Savamala

Take a leisurely walk down a gentle slope from Knez Mihailova towards the Sava river through the historical quarter of Kosančićev venac. This oldest section of Belgrade outside Kalemegdan features the classicist Orthodox Cathedral. Near the cathedral, you’ll find The Question Mark, the city’s oldest traditional tavern. The cobblestone streets of Kosančićev venac are home to the University of Arts, along with the Museum of Applied Arts, which frequently showcases themed exhibitions. Art students can often be seen chilling out on the stairs overlooking the Sava or in The Black Turtle pub.

Descending from Kosančićev venac, you enter Savamala, home to a revitalized culture and nightlife within an otherwise rundown portside district. Good luck trying to catch a taxi on a Saturday night as the party at Tranzit bar is in full swing. Savamala is also the focus of the controversial Belgrade Waterfront project, imposing a luxurious vision of the area that has received mixed reactions from local architects and residents. While the Sava promenade has seen renovations under this project, the warehouse space of KC Grad remains central to Savamala’s cultural hub.

Vračar

Now back to the hills. Vračar is a trendy, desirable area known for its middle-class inhabitants. Start from the central Slavija roundabout with its amusing musical fountain, then take a short climb to the impressive Sveti Sava Temple, a monumental Orthodox church that has been under construction since 1935. Adjacent is the National Library, which leads you to the fashionable Villa Maska for a coffee break before heading to the bustling Kalenić Market for some fresh fruit. The nearby Nikola Tesla Museum is another must-see destination in Vračar. When dinner calls, try traditional grill at kafana Čubura in the old bohemian quarter of the same name, known for preserving the authenticity of Serbian cuisine and social atmosphere.

Topčider, Dedinje and Ada Ciganlija

This vast green area is easily accessible from the city center via public transport. It’s a favorite among locals looking to escape urban buzz and enjoy nature. In Topčider Park, you can admire a gigantic centenarian plane tree and witness wedding photo shoots. From there, you can either head uphill to the forested Košutnjak Hill or enjoy the posh residential area of Dedinje—be sure to grab a delicious organic pizza at Dvorište, near the fascinating Museum of African Art. The mansions of Dedinje are home to notable politicians, diplomats, and businessmen, with the Royal Compound now open for public viewing. Additionally, the Museum of Yugoslav History is essential for those interested in the significant events of former Yugoslavia.

Ada Ciganlija island along the Sava river provides an ideal spot to start or conclude a day. In summer, this locale transforms into a popular beach, offering various sports activities and countless cafes around the lake. However, locals prefer visiting during the off-season when it’s less crowded or retreating to Na kraj sveta bar at the far end of the lake.

Novi Beograd (New Belgrade)

From Ada Ciganlija, hop on a boat across the Sava to New Belgrade, a product of ambitious urban development after WWII. Completely distinct from the old city, much of New Belgrade rests on flat, swampy land and showcases brutalist architecture such as the Palace of Serbia and Genex Tower. Although modern businesses and shopping malls have emerged more recently, long-time residents cherish their sprawling ‘blocks’ and their local urban culture. A new lifestyle is now evolving, with health-food restaurant Oliva embodying this positive shift. During summer, the Sava riverbank turns into a vibrant party scene full of splavovi (river barges), where various music genres can be found, from turbo-folk at Blaywatch to electronic and alternative music at 20/44.

Zemun

While New Belgrade focuses primarily on business or nightlife, neighboring Zemun enchants visitors with its charming streets and picturesque quay, frequented by walkers and joggers year-round. Historically a separate town under the Habsburg Monarchy until WWI, Zemun boasts unique architecture and a relaxed atmosphere. The famous fish restaurant Šaran sits right on the Danube Quay, offering fresh carp, catfish, and trout—while a bit pricey, it promises a delightful riverside experience. For an elegant evening, the private Madlenianum Opera & Theatre on Zemun’s main street is an excellent choice. For a casual drink, be sure to check out the Afro-style barge Savana on the quay, or find the cozy Crveni Rak beer garden hidden in a side street before heading to Gardoš Tower for a stunning view of the Serbian capital.