The Culinary Journey of Peru

2013 marked a significant milestone in Peru’s culinary evolution. It was this year that Peruvian food earned its first Michelin star, thanks to London’s Lima restaurant. Additionally, Lima-based restaurant Astrid y Gastón rose to prominence by claiming the numero uno position in the inaugural Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants awards.

The excitement surrounding this cuisine, distinguished by its diverse use of tubers and vibrant notes of citrus and ají chillies, has only intensified since then, with Latin America’s top two restaurants in the 2017 edition of the awards hailing from Peru as well.

While the world often perceives Peruvian cuisine as a trend rooted in the gastronomically rich capital of Lima, the reality is notably different. The nation employs some of the most ancient cooking techniques globally, presenting Lima as a melting pot for diverse regional cuisines. If embarking on the culinary exploration of Peru was akin to a journey, Lima serves as the ambassadorial handshake and the first few steps.

Lima’s Luxuries

The capital has spearheaded the country’s pursuit of international culinary acclaim. In upscale neighborhoods like San Isidro and Miraflores, you will discover elegantly experimental restaurants that have recently gained attention from food critics.

Astrid y Gastón, created by Peru’s most internationally recognized chef, Gastón Acurio, has opened a window to global audiences, showcasing the country’s culinary treasures. Acurio has played a significant role in elevating Peru’s novoandina (new Andean) cooking style, which blends the ancient traditions of the highlands with modern interpretations, giving rise to innovative dishes like quinotto (quinoa risotto). Encased in a grand hacienda in San Isidro, Astrid y Gastón stands not only as Acurio’s flagship establishment but also as a historical narrative of Peruvian cuisine’s ascent, featuring a 2017 menu that honors the culinary heritage of Lima, highlighting its renowned seafood.

Virgilio Martinez’s Miraflores restaurant Central has gained accolades for its groundbreaking culinary offerings. Each course at Central narrates a nationwide gastronomic story, representing distinct elevations and ecosystems through rarely used ingredients like sea urchin (coast), tree tomato (mountains), and guanábana or soursop (rainforest).

Ceviche: A Nationwide Obsession

The city has become a beacon for culinary enthusiasts, but the essence of Lima’s cuisine lies not in a celebrity chef, but in ceviche.

Frequently consumed as a remedy for warm afternoons across Peru, this refreshing lime-marinated fish is best when crafted from the freshest catch in coastal communities, and Lima serves as the premier location to experience it. Cebicherías (ceviche restaurants) can range from luxurious venues, such as La Mar in Miraflores, to more humble back-street dining spots where locals gather for hours over lunch.

Ceviche is considered Peru’s national dish, and despite its increasing global popularity, authentic Peruvian ceviche is seldom exported. Remove it from its original context, and some of its essence may be lost.

As the ultimate Peruvian fusion dish, ceviche embodies a blend of indigenous, Hispanic, and even Japanese influences, reflecting the diverse demographics of Peru today. The nutrient-rich cold Humboldt Current converges with tropical waters off the coast, fostering a remarkable variety of seafood, which served as a staple for Peru’s pre-Columbian peoples. Numerous origin stories exist, but the Moche civilization, inhabiting Peru’s coast nearly two millennia ago, is often regarded as the progenitor of ceviche. The Incas, whose armies required sustenance on lengthy journeys, also preserved fish using chicha, a fermented corn drink. The introduction of lime by conquistadors eventually replaced the chicha, while coriander and red onion added color and flavor to the dish. Moreover, the accompanying sweet potato and corn have been cultivated in Peru for centuries, alongside ají chillies that contribute to ceviche’s signature spice. The arrival of Japanese immigrants in the 19th century also influence marination techniques, leading to Nikkei cuisine, a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian culinary traditions that is currently gaining traction in Lima.

A vital aspect of enjoying ceviche in Peru is the ritual of sipping the citrus juices in which the dish is marinated—known as leche de tigre—as a toast to this iconic Peruvian delicacy.

Up to the Andes

Your culinary journey might continue from Lima to the Andes mountains, rising over 3000 meters and experiencing a noticeable temperature drop. This highland plateau reveals the ancient soul of Peruvian cuisine.

The indigenous roots of Andean cooking remain strong, reminiscent of the Inca civilization that once thrived in these rugged highlands. This area, where the potato was first cultivated around 8000 years ago, is notable for its staple foods. Potatoes and corn provided crucial sustenance for the Inca Empire and continue to be integral in modern cooking, with Peru boasting hundreds of potato varieties used today. A signature dish of highland cuisine is pachamanca, where marinated meats and potatoes are cooked in hot stones buried underground. In addition to standard meats like chicken and pork, guinea pig (cuy) is a traditional mountain delicacy, its significance emphasized by its portrayal in paintings of the Last Supper in Cuzco’s cathedral, representing the meal shared by Jesus and his disciples.

To combat the often chilly Andean weather, hot soups and stews are commonly enjoyed. These hearty dishes often consist of meat, tubers like yucca or sweet potato, and grains such as quinoa, serving as warm sustenance for the region’s inhabitants. Additionally, lomo saltado, a stir-fry made with marinated beef, tomatoes, onions, and French fries served over rice, is a beloved specialization here.

The geographical isolation of many valleys has led to highly diverse regional varieties in Andean cuisine. For instance, Arequipa is renowned for its chupe de camarones (shrimp stew), Ayacucho offers puca picante (a beef and potato stew simmered in a spicy peanut sauce), and Huancayo is famous for papas a la huancaína (potatoes served in a creamy cheese sauce with olives and boiled eggs).

Some of the best culinary experiences can be found at street-side stalls during regional festivals.

Specialties of the Selva

As you descend from the Andes into the Amazon rainforest, transitioning from the selva alta (high jungle) down to the selva baja (low jungle), an exciting array of vibrant and unusual food becomes apparent in local markets and eateries. Much of this cuisine remains lesser-known internationally due to the reliance on unique fruits and vegetables that cannot be replicated elsewhere.

Among the most enjoyable snacks are juanes—a delightful mix of rice steamed with meat or fish, wrapped in jungle leaves, making it perfect for river journeys. You’ll also find delicious river fish like tilapia or paiche, which are increasingly featured on menus thanks to successful reintroduction efforts. Another characteristic dish includes parrilladas de la selva, which features marinated meats from the rainforest, grilled to perfection and served with a Brazil nut sauce.

The culinary highlight of the Peruvian Amazon is undoubtedly Belén Mercado located in Iquitos. This vibrant market presents a variety of jungle delicacies, ranging from exotic fruit juices to unique snacks like fried leafcutter ants—if you’re feeling adventurous enough to try them.

Participatory Peruvian Food Experiences

If your appetite for Peruvian cuisine has been ignited, cities like Lima and Cuzco offer various culinary festivals and cooking classes. The illustrious Mistura festival, renowned as Latin America’s largest food event, occurs in Lima during October and November, featuring a farmers market along with appearances from celebrity chefs. For culinary tours, tastings, and cooking classes focused on Andean cuisine, consider Marcelo Batata Cooking Class in Cuzco.