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Jan 25, 2018 • 4 min read
Travel writer Anirban Mahapatra explores the globe, yet between his adventures, he returns home to work as an GoTravelDaily Local for Kolkata. During his time in the city, he revisits cherished locations, soaking in Kolkata’s vibrant energy and experiencing its renowned culinary scene.
I begin my day in Kolkata with… a morning jog in the scenic lakeside parks surrounding Rabindra Sarovar. This area, which was once a medical camp for Allied Forces during WWII, has transformed into one of Kolkata’s most prized green spaces through years of care and enhancement. While jogging along a paved pathway beneath a green canopy, I encounter groups of locals engaged in yoga, music practice, rowing competitions, and birdwatching. It’s an ideal venue for people-watching and breathing in fresh air.
When I have friends visiting… I take them for an evening stroll along the Hooghly Riverbanks. Walking along a lush promenade, I admire the stunning Hooghly River, featuring iconic bridges and various boats navigating its waters. The ghats—riverside steps—buzz with activity, providing endless photo opportunities. My friends consistently leave these outings with memorable snapshots.
On Saturday nights… I dress up and head to Park Street, Kolkata’s vibrant nightlife hub. After enjoying drinks at a popular spot like OlyPub, my friends and I indulge in a hearty meal at Peter Cat, culminating with live jazz, blues, and rock performances at Someplace Else, one of Kolkata’s top music venues. Unlike some other Indian cities, Kolkata boasts a late curfew, allowing us to keep enjoying the music and festivities!
My favorite budget meal in Kolkata… is a popular lunch at the food stalls lining Dacres Lane, situated in the heart of the business district. These roadside eateries are immensely popular with office-goers, serving a mind-boggling variety of dishes, from stir-fried noodles to hot parathas (flaky Indian bread) and savory curries. My preferred choice is mutton and papaya stew, accompanied by toasted bread, all for less than Rs 100, which equates to about US$1.50!
My favorite season in Kolkata is… autumn, when the city comes alive with mega festivals. Celebrations kick off with Durga Puja in late September or early October. This vibrant four-day festival is Bengal’s most significant carnival, characterized by the lively public display and worship of vividly colored statues of Goddess Durga. Soon after, Kali Puja follows, coinciding with Kolkata’s version of Diwali, the Festival of Lights. In this season, the city finally receives relief from the heat, greeted by gentle sunshine and cool northern winds hinting at the approaching winter. This festive atmosphere makes it an excellent time to visit the city.
Kolkata’s hidden treasure is… its trams. Despite quick and modern transport options like Uber and the Kolkata Metro, many locals overlook these vintage slow-moving vehicles cruising down the city streets. However, when time is on my side, I relish the leisurely pace of a tram, watching the vibrant city unfold in slow motion. The Heritage Tram, gliding past the Maidan parks and through charming northern districts, offers a ride unlike any other in Kolkata.
When I want to escape the city… I head to Shantiniketan, a charming university town established by Bengal’s Nobel Laureate poet Rabindranath Tagore. The serene campus offers a rich blend of culture, music, and intellectual discourse, having nurtured numerous distinguished figures in Indian art, literature, and music. Positioned just a couple of hours from Kolkata by train, Shantiniketan serves as an excellent weekend retreat.
The one downside of Kolkata is… its drainage issues. The British-era drainage system can cause significant flooding, particularly during the monsoon season. Commuting becomes quite challenging with waterlogging that results from just a few hours of rain. This situation is a crucial reason why I advise friends against visiting Kolkata during the rainy months from June to August.
I know I am a Kolkataite because… no matter where my travels take me, a part of me always belongs to Kolkata. It’s true what they say: you can take a person out of Kolkata, but you can never take Kolkata out of the person.
