Kolkata: A Culinary Paradise
Amongst Indian foodies, Kolkata is celebrated as a gourmand’s paradise, home to one of the most evolved culinary traditions in South Asia. Locals are not only proud of their food; they approach their epicurean pursuits with sophistication. It pays to know the ropes before you visit and indulge in a Bengali feast.
A quick brush-up on the basics of Bengali cuisine will enhance your experience in this cultural capital. Here’s an essential breakdown of some of Kolkata’s magnificent delicacies and where to find them.
Bengal’s Slippery Feast
Thanks to the abundant shoals of fish in the rivers that empty into the Bay of Bengal, Kolkata citizens prepare fish in numerous permutations. The types of fish used are somewhat cast in stone, with certain traditions never altered. For instance, the iconic ‘fish fry’ generally refers to the bhetki (barramundi), coated in flour and breadcrumbs, and deep-fried either as a standalone dish or as an accompaniment to rice and dhal.
Another fried favorite is hilsa (also known as ilish), a close relative of herring, pan-seared in slices with mustard oil and served fresh from the kadai (Indian wok) as ilish maach bhaja. Bengal’s favorite fish also appears in street food dishes such as paturi (oven-baked fish in banana leaves with spices) and jhol (fish steaks in a spicy gravy with mustard paste and green chili).
The ubiquitous Bengali fish curry takes many forms. Rohu, an Indian carp species, can be enjoyed as kalia, in a rich gravy of onion, ginger, garlic, red chili, and garam masala, or doi maach, in a light and aromatic yogurt sauce. Also, look out for the legendary prawn malaikari, a tropical delight tempered with coconut milk and garam masala.
Fish feasts abound in Kolkata. For an authentic sampling of these dishes, visit downtown favorites such as Kewpies, Oh! Calcutta, or Suruchi. Alternatively, dine in comfort at 6 Ballygunge Place or join the crowds at Bhojohori Manna.
The Great Bengali Biryani
Unless you wish to face culinary excommunication, never confuse Kolkata biryani with its counterparts from Hyderabad, Delhi, or Dhaka. Each variant is a gastronomic heavyweight, but the Kolkata version is distinguished by a poached potato, introduced during a drought to supplement rice shortages.
The Kolkata biryani also uses a unique strain of long-grain rice. The meat, often chicken or marinated mutton, is semi-cooked separately before being added to the rice and potato for the final stage. You can experience this dish at Arsalan or Shiraz, where plates of biryani are served quickly during mealtimes.
Kolkata’s Colonial Creations
Kolkata’s extensive colonial history has led to a significant influx of European recipes into the local gastronomic arena. Over the years, Indian and imported techniques have fused, resulting in a uniquely Indian identity for many British dishes.
Lacking a more specific name, Kolkata’s culinary scene defines these borrowed and modified dishes as ‘Continental’. This term encompasses a diverse array of European-style dishes, including roast meats, steaks, and sizzlers. The sizzler—a dish that arrives at the table on a sizzling platter with gravy and vegetables—has been revamped in India and remains a crowd favorite.
Continental cuisine experienced great popularity in India during the 1950s and 60s, particularly on Park Street, the lively heart of Kolkata. Recommended places to experience this hybrid cuisine include Peter Cat and Mocambo. For a more casual experience, try Blue Sky Café.
Eat the Streets
Kolkata’s fabulous street food scene is worthy of its own exploration. From light bites like singara (a potato, peanut, and peas-filled snack) to the spicy jhal muri (a crunchy salad of rice crisps and nuts), the variety is astonishing. Don’t miss phuchka, deep-fried semolina balls filled with spicy potato puree.
Street food also incorporates popular snacks from across India, including momos from the West Bengal Hills and bhel puri from Mumbai’s beaches. For a good sampling of Kolkata’s snacks, eateries such as Haldiram’s, Hot Kati Rolls, and the food stalls on Dacres Lane are excellent starting points.
Kolkata’s Sweet Tooth
Don’t leave Kolkata without indulging in a roshogolla—the iconic Bengali dessert made from spongy cottage cheese balls soaked in syrup. Mishti doi, a creamy sweetened yogurt, is perfect for ending a meal, while cham-cham desserts serve as delightful snacks.
For the best in sweets, visit KC Das, renowned for its delectable sweetmeats. Chocolate lovers should explore Kookie Jar for truffle cake and dark chocolate mousse or Nahoum Bakery for walnut brownies and lemon cheesecake.
