Do you know your waakye from your fufu? Or your Jollof from your red-red? Not a worry. Here we lay bare the secrets of Accra’s best local food and tell you where to find it. The bottom line – it’s a fulfilling proposition, and your stomach will love you for it.
If you like tomatoes, you’ll love Ghanaian food. Whether served in a ‘chop bar’ (a simple, local eatery), a dining hall, or a restaurant cooled by air-conditioning, traditional dishes are often based around sauces, soups, and stews filled with the red vegetable introduced during colonization. Therefore, even medium-sized supermarkets boast at least two meters of shelves stocked with various brands of tomato paste. However, you should also enjoy the generous use of chillies, as they are equally prevalent in local dishes.
Pieces of meat or fish in the stews and soups provide the necessary protein, while local starches like yam, cassava, or plantain are patiently pounded and cooked to deliver carbohydrates, offering relief from the chilli-induced heat. Globalization has made rice-based dishes and fried chicken more popular in Ghana, especially in cities such as Accra, but even these will not be served without a dip of… you guessed correctly… tomato and/or hot chillies.
Waakye: all you can eat
In its simplest form, waakye is just a mix of beans and rice. However, there are often many sides added, transforming it into a filling, all-in-one dish. You might be surprised to find gari (cassava powder), stewed meat or fish, fried pieces of kelewele (plantain), salad, shito sauce (made of chillies), dried fish, and even spaghetti in it. Waakye is typically prepared by women who cook all the ingredients in the early mornings, selling them on the street wrapped in banana leaves or served in takeaway boxes. The most famous seller is Auntie Muni, whose stall in Accra’s Labone area attracts former presidents, football stars, expats, and countless other Ghanaians.
Fried Chicken & Jollof Rice: A Modern Favourite
Chicken was once reserved for special events like Christmas dinners, but economic growth has made it a favorite at nearly every local restaurant. Ghanaians enjoy their chicken marinated with peppers, fried, and served with a side of Jollof rice, a beloved tomato-flavored, slightly spicy rice dish. Moreover, this dish is so popular in West Africa that Nigerians and Ghanaians often debate who cooks the better version.
You can find chicken and Jollof almost everywhere. One great place to try it is Frankie’s on Oxford Street in Osu, one of the oldest fast-food restaurants in Accra. The menu spans a range of dishes, including continental and Lebanese options, but nothing compares to the hearty Jollof while you observe the vibrant street life outside. Frankie’s is also open until midnight, making it an excellent spot for a pre-night-out meal.
Fufu & Soup: Use Your Fingers
If Ghana could have only one national dish, it would be fufu. Composed of plantain and cassava (or sometimes yam), fufu is cooked and pounded until it reaches a stretchy consistency, ready to be dipped into various soups. Two famous soups that accompany fufu are groundnut soup (peanut-based) and ‘light soup’, rich in tomato and often featuring goat meat.
For an authentic experience, visit a traditional dining hall in Osu. Sitting at a plastic table in the canteen-style Asanka Local offers an excellent opportunity to wash your hands and dip your fingers into the fufu, providing a true taste of Ghanaian culinary culture. Don’t forget to try it with a Star or Club beer or a refreshing malt drink.
Tilapia & Banku: For Fish Lovers
Even though Accra is situated right on the coast, the most popular fish eaten is freshwater tilapia. Caught or farmed in the Volta River and its namesake lake, this fish is often grilled or fried, making it a healthier meal option. The whole fish is typically served with banku, a unique, fermented flour dish made from corn and cassava.
One of the best spots for grilled tilapia and banku is the Ivorian eatery Chez Clarisse Mama Africa in Osu, where it is served with diced tomatoes, raw onions, and a spicy pepper dip. The tender fish is often best enjoyed using your fingers.
Red-red: Basic but Tasty
This straightforward stew blends black-eyed beans cooked in palm oil and tomatoes, topped with shimmering fried plantains. Ghanaians, especially those in the working class who appreciate quick meals, love street food, with red-red likely being the most popular option next to waakye. Ask locals for their recommendations or, if you prefer a more comfortable setting, try red-red at Buka in Osu, a favored spot for expats looking for Ghanaian and Nigerian dishes.
