Tucked away between the towering Julian Alps and the Adriatic coast, Slovenia’s bucolic western winelands are often overlooked by visitors. Nonetheless, this region boasts rich appeal and charm – from boutique wine tasting and gastronomic surprises to adrenaline-fuelled adventures, all with a picture-perfect backdrop.
Beautiful Landscapes
Edged by great karst mountains, their limestone rocks peeking out above the forests, the Vipava Valley feels a million miles from the city of Ljubljana, even though it’s just a short hop away. Rows of grape-heavy vines spread across the valley floor, interrupted by terracotta-topped hamlets with roofs weighed down by rocks to withstand the fierce bora wind in winter. The verdant gorges and white-grey rock stacks pepper the limestone Karst area to the south. Further west, the rolling hills of the Goriška Brda micro-region, dotted with cypress trees and gothic stone towers, evoke the charm of Tuscan landscapes – but without the crowds.
Top-Quality Wines
The Primorska wine region, comprising Vipava, Brda and Karst, is primarily home to small, family-run vineyards that typically do not export much of their wine. Winemakers in Slovenia lightheartedly claim this is because they want to keep it all for themselves, and their wines are enjoying a resurgence in popularity. Visitors can easily encounter the oxblood-red Teran, crafted from Refosco grapes that thrive in the mineral-rich limestone soil and salty Mediterranean air of the Karst region. To the northeast, the locally grown Zelen grape flourishes in the windy conditions of the Vipava Valley, resulting in crisp, herbaceous whites.
Many of the younger generation of winemakers here experiment with innovative techniques, utilizing organic methods and concrete egg-shaped tanks instead of oak barrels. While these vineyards may be smaller, their unique offerings attract visitors eager to sample wines made right in the region.
Cycling Between Cellar Doors
In Slovenia’s western winelands, the cellar door experience is akin to a relaxed gathering among friends rather than formal, fusty tastings. Winemakers themselves often host tastings, showcasing their estates with pride. At Žorž in the Vipava Valley, friendly tastings occur in stone cellars adjacent to a sunny courtyard, accompanied by large charcuterie platters. Similarly, the Burja estate provides an entertaining experience, as winemaker Primoz Lavrenčič enthusiastically guides guests through his futuristic-looking cellars.
One of the best ways to explore the region while sampling its offerings is by cycling. Local company Wajdusna organizes cycling tours that navigate gravel paths and single-track roads between grapevines, stopping at various cellars for tastings.
Locavore Gastronomy
Situated between Italy and Austria, western Slovenia’s cuisine showcases strong influences from its neighbors, with local specialties such as pasta, gnocchi, and strudel. However, Slovenia emphasizes producing regional cuisine using fresh, local ingredients. This approach is evident in diverse establishments, from humble cafes to renowned restaurants, such as the celebrated Hiša Franko in Kobarid, led by Ana Roš, recognized as the world’s best female chef in 2017.
The local bread, cured sausages, and nutty cheeses served in wine cellars and restaurants are always produced locally, often homemade. Cured meat like pršut gains its unique flavor from the bora wind that dries it, while the high-altitude Tolminc cheese has been crafted here for centuries with a touch of tang.
For an exceptional culinary experience, visit Majerija restaurant, located near the small village of Slap in the Vipava Valley. This vineyard-surrounded eatery features a tasting menu celebrating local produce, including homemade salami and cherry cake complemented by herbs from the restaurant’s garden.
Outdoor and Underground Adventures
The bora wind not only influences grape ripening but also provides opportunities for paragliders to soar above the valley. This picturesque region offers numerous outdoor activities for adventurers: hikers and cyclists will discover abundant trails amidst stunning surroundings, free from heavy traffic. The steep walls and gorges surrounding the valley offer incredible rock climbing experiences, rewarding climbers with breathtaking views of the Adriatic to the south and the Alps to the north. The year-round campground Park Lijak, located 6 km from Nova Gorica, organizes various activities including hiking, cycling, and paragliding.
To the south, the Karst region is famed for its enormous underground caverns formed by porous limestone terrain. The most renowned are the Postojna and Škocjan caves, which can be explored through guided tours. For a more adventurous experience, Underground Adventures leads spelunking tours of two smaller caves at Postojna not included in regular tours.
