A Food Lover’s Day in Tokyo

So you came to Tokyo to eat? You’d need a whole month just to make it through the highlights of this world-class – some would say world’s best – food city. However, you can accomplish a significant amount in just one day, from exploring the markets and department stores to indulging in sushi and sake.

The best part about Tokyo for food enthusiasts is that you can eat and drink well on any budget. This itinerary focuses on midrange options (you could spend less, but you could also spend a whole lot more). You could make it budget-friendly by swapping one of the meals for ramen, which rarely disappoints.

Morning at the Market

A foodie’s day in Tokyo naturally begins with a morning trip to Tsukiji Market. The city’s famed fish market is divided into two parts: the inner market (officially known as the Seafood Intermediate Wholesalers’ Area) is where the tuna auction takes place most mornings around 6 am – though you’ll need to get there a lot earlier to secure one of the 120 coveted spots to view the auction.

Not keen to rise so early? The outer market is where to find dozens of vendors selling essentials of Japanese cooking, such as the floss-like katsuo-bushi (flakes of dried bonito) used to make dashi (fish stock), the delicate sheets of nori (laver) used to wrap sushi rolls, and the tart, colourful pickles that complete the meal.

Scour the narrow lanes for takeaway counters such as Yamachō, which specializes in tamago-yaki, the rolled omelettes served at sushi restaurants (also great for breakfast). It can get very crowded here, so it pays to come early. Fortunately, Turret Coffee, nearby maker of excellent lattes, opens on weekdays from 7 am.

Note that Tsukiji inner market is scheduled to move to a new facility in Toyosu in October 2018. Therefore, if you want to experience the renowned tuna auction, now is the time to go!

Sushi Lunch

A morning at the fish market is bound to work up an appetite for sushi. Dining at one of Tokyo’s top-rated sushi counters is undoubtedly an experience of a lifetime; however, it doesn’t come cheap – which is why we recommend sushi for lunch. A midday meal can cost half of what it does after dark (or even less, especially if you’re not indulging in sake).

You can’t go wrong with Kyūbey, a Tokyo institution for over 80 years. Kyūbey offers a winning combination of reliable quality, welcoming service, and excellent value. Opt for the omakase (chef’s choice), featuring a selection of the day’s best catch, prepared one piece at a time. It is advisable to arrive early for the 11.30 am seating to avoid queues.

We also recommend Kizushi for its nostalgic atmosphere and traditional flavors: the sushi here is salted and marinated using techniques handed down through generations. The charming wooden house setting adds to the experience. Reservations are strongly advised (and required for dinner).

Gourmet Shopping in Ginza and Nihombashi

Ginza is Tokyo’s premier shopping district and a gourmet hotspot. The classic department store Mitsukoshi has an excellent depachika (basement food hall), which carries perfectly ripe produce, sun-shaded tea, marbled wagyū (Japanese beef), sculptural sweets – you name it – from the best producers. This is also where you’ll find examples of Japan’s famously unblemished (and super pricey) fruit, given as gifts. The upscale mall Ginza Six features a fittingly luxurious food hall. Boutique Akomeya sells artisanal ingredients, like soy sauce and miso, and beautiful traditional kitchen implements, such as shamoji (rice paddles) carved from hinoki (cedar) wood.

Neighbouring Nihombashi – home of the original fish market, before it settled in Tsukiji – boasts several venerable old gourmet stores. Visit the Coredo Muromachi complex, which features branches of Nihombashi native shops as well as famous purveyors from across Japan. Observe demonstrations of exquisite, seasonal wagashi (Japanese sweets) being crafted at Tsuruya Yoshinobu.

Tea Break

For years, Tokyo has been enamoured with coffee, but recently the city is on a tea kick. Moreover, there is a growing number of tea salons to help you distinguish your gyokuro (premium-grade green tea made from young leaves grown in the shade) from your sencha (green tea from unshaded young leaves) – not to mention countless other tea varieties from various regions of Japan.

Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience may have the appearance of a tourist trap, but it is not. It’s a lovely space, with a minimalist counter, elegant tableware, and a carefully curated selection of teas served individually or as part of a tasting flight. They also offer tea cocktails (the owner previously worked as a bartender).

For a more traditional experience, there’s Chashitsu Kaboku, run by Kyoto’s most renowned tea purveyor, 300-year-old Ippōdō. Here, you can sample koicha, or ‘thick tea’, served in formal tea ceremonies (much thicker than ordinary matcha, powdered green tea). Both shops offer packages of tea and utensils for you to take home.

Izakaya Dinner

Just as you wouldn’t visit the UK without eating in a pub, you can’t visit Japan without dining at an izakaya. These are classic establishments for eating and drinking, where sake (or beer, or your drink of choice) pairs perfectly with small dishes of fresh seafood, simmered tofu, fried chicken, braised pork… getting hungry again yet?

Shinsuke, near Ueno Station, is highly regarded as an ideal izakaya. It has been around for nearly 100 years, the menu is always seasonal (with no dull dishes), the daiginjō (top-grade sake) consistently smooth, and it maintains a vibrant atmosphere. For something more contemporary, try cult favorite Narukiyo in Shibuya, where you can enjoy extravagant sashimi platters set to an eclectic soundtrack while taking in the playful decor.

Night Cap

Wind down the day by raising a glass in Shinjuku, the center of vibrant, neon-lit streets and a 24-hour entertainment scene. Zoetrope stands out among the countless tiny bars in the area – boasting the world’s best collection of Japanese whisky. Meanwhile, BenFiddich is without a doubt Tokyo’s coolest cocktail bar, crafting herbal concoctions in an enchanting atmosphere.