Exploring the Vibrant City of Accra

GoTravelDaily Local Elio Stamm moved to Accra three years ago. Although the humidity and sheer volume of everything were a little overwhelming at first, he quickly fell for the bustling energy and creativity with which the city’s inhabitants go about their daily lives. He’s since discovered a rapidly evolving arts scene, diverse cuisine from around the globe, and found that Accra’s politeness is even starting to rub off on him.

What I Love Most About Accra

The most endearing quality of Accra is undoubtedly its people. No matter how busy the streets of the Makola Market may be, the market ladies always engage patrons in conversation. Taxi drivers – of which there are more in Accra than in Manhattan – may discuss politics like anywhere else in the world, yet here they show resilience even when disruptive noises start to emanate from the engine. Furthermore, young creatives often work alongside me on their laptops at Café Kwae or Nourish Lab Smoothy’s, and they eagerly share their aspirations for the future, whether related to an online app or a trendy bag production company. The energy is truly palpable in every corner.

When I Have Friends Visiting

I often send them via taxi to the Independence Square to admire Ghana’s independence symbols. Afterward, I recommend a Jamestown Walking Tour in Accra’s oldest suburb. The lighthouse tower and old colonial buildings narrate a profound history, while the fishing community showcases the reality of poverty and hardship that residents face today. However, it also highlights the strength and pride of these people. The community-run tour ensures that funds support local youth programs, making a meaningful contribution. After such an emotionally charged day, pausing for reflection at the JamesTown Cafe, nestled next to the historic Ussher Fort, is a perfect option.

You Know You’ve Been in Accra a Long Time When…

You add a friendly ‘please’ to every ‘no.’ Accra’s inhabitants are known for their politeness. Although queuing may not be a priority and discussions often become animated, the people here are always ready to assist in times of need, whether pulling your car out of a ditch or offering directions when you’re lost.

What’s New in Accra?

The arts and culture scene is thriving, with many new venues emerging. However, since it’s still a relatively small circle, I often cross paths with familiar faces at film screenings or exhibitions, like the one on Ghanaian coffin culture at the ANO Centre for Cultural Research. Nevertheless, my favorite arts-and-culture hub is The Studio, a tiny room without signage at the Forico Mall in Osu. Photographer Francis Kokoroko and his colleagues occasionally organize art talks and exhibitions that they live stream on Facebook. Topics can range from Ghanaian movie posters to the origins of Hiplife music.

A Typical Weekend in Accra

A typical weekend starts with a visit to the organic Labone Green Market, where my wife stocks up on vegetables for the week and I grab some bagels. After a relaxing afternoon at home or catching up on administrative tasks, we often dine with friends at one of the many excellent restaurants. Personally, I enjoy the pizza at Mamma Mia and Pad Thai noodles at Zion Thai. Alternatively, if I’m in the mood for some local tilapia or chicken, I’ll visit Chez Clarisse Mama Africa. All three restaurants are located in Osu, an area teeming with dining and nightlife options. Traditional Ghanaian delicacies like waake or fufu are also a must-try.

When I’m Up for a Big Night Out…

I first need to weigh my options, as there are many options to choose from. Additionally, I must exercise patience, as clubs like Plotseven and Rockstone’s Office don’t really get lively until well after midnight. To bridge the time between dinner and dancing, I enjoy a drink at Republic, where expats and Ghanaians alike gather to unwind. On evenings when I prefer an early night but crave some dancing, we often find ourselves at Clear Spice, a disco bar with classic tunes from the 1970s, or enjoying live music at Badu Lounge.

For a Good View…

One of my favorite haunts is SkyBar25, perched atop West Africa’s tallest building. This stylish venue features a blue-lit bar and comfortable seating. Although the lounge is primarily for members, I’ve had good fortune by calling ahead for a reservation. The Alto Tower is conveniently located near the air-conditioned Accra Mall, a shopping haven complete with shops and a multiplex cinema, perfect for the hotter days when exploring the city or the bustling markets can become exhausting.

What I Dislike About Accra

One aspect that I find disappointing about Accra is the lack of natural spaces. As a coastal city without a promenade or clean beaches, it can be challenging to find a serene park for relaxation on a Sunday. When I yearn for a chill day, I either venture out to nearby beaches like Bojo or, if energy levels are low, seek solace in one of the upscale hotels with swimming pools. My favorite is the Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel, offering a sizable pool and lush greenery – a miniature oasis in the bustling central business district. During the cooler months from June to September, strolling through the quieter suburbs such as Labone, Cantonments, or Airport Residential becomes quite enjoyable.