Experience the Modern Oasis of Palm Springs, California
After a century of taking the world by storm, modern women have earned some downtime. When bubble baths won’t suffice, it’s time to visit California’s oasis of inspiration: Palm Springs.
Today, it’s the resort destination of choice for Coachella headliners like Beyoncé and sundry Kardashians. Palm Springs has been a magnet for modern women for decades, with trailblazers like celebrity athlete Dinah Shore, modernist painter Agnes Pelton, and movie icon Marilyn Monroe bringing a bold, independent spirit to this SoCal retreat. Channel your inner Beyoncé, round up your squad, and make your modern desert getaway a reality.
Star Like Beyoncé
Cruise 100 miles from LA after rush hour, and you’ll arrive in Palm Springs just in time for the moonrise and the revelation that every star sparkles brighter in the desert. If the planets align, your arrival may coincide with a visit from the Knowles sisters at Parker Palm Springs.
Walking through Parker’s enormous orange front door feels like entering a mysterious and powerful chill pill. You’re suddenly in a hedonist’s den, furnished with shaggy throw cushions, psychedelic carpets, velvet lounges, and even a whimsical knight pointing the way to the bathrooms. The cheeky vintage sign over the lobby spells it out: ‘DRUGS.’
For dinner with your entourage, consider Mrs. Parker, the decadent, dimly lit, reservation-only dining area at Mr. Parker. The wine selection draws inspiration from the iconic ’90s hip-hop supergroup TLC, categorizing the menu into three sections: Crazy (pricey), Sexy (silky reds, satiny whites), and Cool (cult-following California wineries). Indulge in sustainable California caviar, crab cakes with saffron aioli, and lobster salad studded with local avocado, grapefruit, and kefir crème fraîche. To extend the evening, cozy up in a speakeasy booth with a bowl of King Slayer rum punch at Bootlegger Tiki, or catch a live band playing poolside at Ace Hotel. If your visit falls on the right day, join the Ace’s monthly Full Moon Drum Circle for a unique experience.
The morning after may require some motivation to get to brunch, but luckily, Palm Springs excels in drag brunches. The spread at Holiday House‘s sunny, palm-fringed courtyard will cure the hangover with rosé all day and Palm Springs’ definitive Paloma: Casamigos tequila, lime, Coachella Valley grapefruit, SoCal’s own Stiegl grapefruit shrub, and a Pacific sea-salt rim. Head to Azul for a strong Bloody Mary and an eye-popping disco drag show hosted by reigning queen Jersey Shore. You can also take center stage at RetroRoom Lounge, with karaoke nightly and drag bingo brunch on Sundays.
Dare Like Dinah
Palm Springs knew how to entertain long before Coachella, thanks to one of its most famous residents: Dinah Shore. As a swinging singer and trailblazing TV talk show host, she was Hollywood royalty from the 1940s to the 1970s but lived life even larger offscreen. Dinah held the honorary title of the first female member of Frank Sinatra’s Rat Pack, known for her witty cocktail banter and golf prowess at the notorious La Quinta PGA West Stadium Course. She was also a pioneering champion of women’s sports, founding the LPGA’s major golf tournament, The ANA Inspiration, where every champion dives into Poppy’s Pond, just as Dinah did.
The annual LPGA tournament became a draw for women, inspiring a spinoff lesbian spring festival called The Dinah, touted as ‘the largest girl party music festival in the world’ with major acts like Lady Gaga, Eve, and Katy Perry. Dinah would have undoubtedly approved; she was a thoroughly modern romantic who defied convention, divorcing two husbands despite Hollywood’s objections and enjoying relationships with younger men like Burt Reynolds.
Locally, Dinah is known for putting Palm Springs modernism on the map. Her commission of modernist Donald Wexler to build her house in the Old Las Palmas neighborhood in 1963 caused an architectural uproar and set global home trends. Dinah’s low-slung, single-story home at 432 Hermosa Road redefined Hollywood glamour with its laid-back Palm Springs style.
Rent a bike to explore Old Las Palmas, where you can spot numerous houses inspired by Dinah’s design. You’ll find Wexler’s modern homes alongside the glamorous glass boxes designed by his mentor, LA star architect Richard Neutra. Wexler crafted affordable homes designed for shade, while Neutra’s creations boasted large windows for attention. The house Wexler built for Dinah has garnered intrigue, now owned by Leonardo DiCaprio, who opens it to the public once a year for a festive martini cocktail party during Palm Springs Modernism Week. Leo honors Dinah with vintage photos adorning the walls of the house.
Style Like Kim
Embracing the spirit of Dinah Shore, you’re free to set your own trends. Before their rise to fame, the Kardashian kids spent school holidays playing dress-up in Palm Springs, where you too can discover your signature modern style in the Uptown Design District. Start your shopping spree with a vintage mod maxi dress from The Frippery, enhance your look with a Day-Glo daisy pin from Dazzles, and achieve maximum wow-factor with ’70s cuff bracelets at Bon Vivant. Bright, color-blocked swimwear and breezy tunics by Palm Springs designer Trina Turk are a must-have poolside. Her flagship store, located in a striking 1953 corner building designed by architect Albert Frey, attracts plenty of attention.
Palm Springs is also a hotspot for Instagram-worthy moments. Snap a selfie by #ThatPinkDoor, the bubblegum-colored entryway at 1100 Sierra Way, ensuring not to infringe upon the privacy of its owners. Join fellow influencers at The Saguaro for mondo margaritas and fun games by the pool, capturing moments against vibrant striped walls. No Palm Springs photo shoot is complete without a visit to Robolights; ensure to arrange your visit ahead of time to see the 200 giant robots artist Kenny Irwin has assembled in his backyard.
After a day of immersing yourself in the local scene like a Kardashian, stay refreshed with a visit to the Kelly Wearstler-designed, poolside Chi Chi wellness bar for a classic Coachella Valley date shake. This silky blend of Medjool dates, California almond milk, and almond butter is sure to revitalize you. When you’re ready for pampering, the adjoining Estrella Spa offers Milky Way mani/pedis, soaking your feet in warm milk and green tea.
Dream Like Agnes
Beneath its sleek modern surfaces, Palm Springs has a restless creative spirit. The stellar modernist collection at Palm Springs Art Museum features works by renowned artists like Hopi artist Barbara Cerno, whose 1951 Polychrome Seed Jar depicts ladybugs and a surprised jackrabbit. Helen Lundeburg’s painting Planet Rising from 1967 showcases swirling gases around Jupiter long before NASA captured its rings in photographs. However, the quiet scene-stealer is Agnes Pelton, who exchanged New York’s limelight for Palm Desert’s sunlight in 1937. Her luminous dreamscapes invite exploration of the desert’s spiritual depths, from native Cahuilla creation myths to surreal modern mirages.
Tapping into your creativity is easy in the secluded Tahquitz Canyon, a native fan-palm oasis capped with a 60ft waterfall tucked behind downtown Palm Springs. The 2-mile loop canyon trail reveals ancient rock art and an eerie calm; local lore suggests it’s the stomping ground for a banished shaman who incites earthquakes. For a different perspective on the landscape, Joshua Tree Rock Climbing School offers breathtaking views of rock formations and puffy treetops of Joshua Tree National Park, located just an hour away from Palm Springs.
To build your own collection of modern art by women, you’ve come to the right place. Twin events, the Palm Springs Modernism Show and Sale and Art Palm Springs, introduce emerging female modernists to the art world. Experience a selection of Cornelis Ruhtenberg’s expressionist woodblock prints alongside sculptural macramé creations by midcentury fiber artist Jane Knight. Local gallery Flow Modern features cactus-spiked chalices by Bianca Juarez and moody time-lapse landscapes by Kat Ballis. To discover the next breakout star of the Palm Springs art scene, mingle with local artists at Thursday night Villagefest or the Backstreet Art District‘s First Wednesday Art Walk.
Retreat Like Marilyn
Palm Springs has been an unofficial Hollywood hideout since the 1950s, when stars were restricted from traveling far without studio permission. Architect Albert Frey designed his buildings for maximum discretion, yet couldn’t help but boast that when Marilyn Monroe needed an escape with JFK, she knew precisely where to go: the Presidential Suite at the Frey-designed Monkey Tree Hotel. This Scandinavian spa retreat remains in pristine mid-century condition.
Often, Marilyn would retreat to Old Las Palmas to read scripts, but avoiding paparazzi became challenging with neighbors Elvis and Priscilla moving in. You can picture their legendary barbecues and lounge parties at the Elvis Honeymoon Hideaway, a mid-century gem built by Palm Springs’ Alexander Construction as ‘The House of Tomorrow.’
Fortunately, Palm Springs offers plenty of means to escape the hustle and bustle. During hot afternoons, enjoy a matinee at Camelot Theatre, a restored 1967 movie palace showcasing classic films and indie art-house selections. For breathtaking views without the fuss, take the rotating Palm Springs Aerial Tramway. Ascend for 360-degree views over cliffs and clouds leading to Mt. San Jacinto State Park. On reaching the summit, you’ll realize you don’t need an entourage, swing, social media presence, artistic tools, or even the company of presidents to achieve your personal peak. You’ve already arrived, all by yourself.
