A remote and still relatively undiscovered destination, Papua New Guinea is one of the few places left in the world where you can truly go off the beaten track. Whether you’re trekking in remote mountain ranges, searching for the elusive bird of paradise in cloud forests, or traveling to off-the-grid villages to get to know some 750 tribes who call PNG their home, you are likely to have the country’s wonders mostly to yourself.
Journeying along the Sepik
Imagine making your way along Papua New Guinea’s mightiest river by motorized longboat. As you round the river’s bends, traditional villages come into view—places with stilt-houses, where mysterious rituals are conducted in haus tambarans (spirit houses), where drummers beat complex rhythms on garamut drums carved from entire logs and adorned with animal head carvings. Encounter men with scarring made to resemble crocodile skin, the sign of passing a coming-of-age ritual. The villages of the Middle Sepik are among the most interesting; here you can stay in thatched guesthouses, share simple meals of tubers and tinpis (tinned fish) with the locals, and admire remarkable art and carvings produced by master craftsmen. Trips along the Sepik are typically arranged in the town of Wewak, or you can prearrange your journey on a liveaboard boat.
Tracing history on the Kokoda Track
The rugged Kokoda Track stretches for 96km across the Owen Stanley Range in eastern Papua New Guinea. During WWII, between July 1942 and January 1943, bitter fighting took place along the track between the invading Japanese forces and Australian defenders, eventually resulting in a massive defeat for the Japanese. The Kokoda Track has since become a place of pilgrimage for many Australians, who see it as an opportunity to pay their respects to those who fought here. Whether you are a military history buff, appreciating the war memorials and relics en route, or simply an outdoor enthusiast in search of a tough trekking challenge, the Kokoda Track fits the bill. The trek takes from six to 11 days, depending on your pace and physical fitness. Therefore, the steep, challenging terrain should not be underestimated: most trekkers spend months training for the hike. Trekking is normally done in a group, with several locally based operators offering experienced guides and porters.
Celebrating traditional culture in the Highlands
The Highlands hold some of the most resilient cultures in Papua New Guinea, maintaining extraordinary experiences from sharing a traditional mumu feast to immersing yourself in the colour and culture of the Huli Wigmen. There is perhaps no better time or place to see impressively adorned and painted tribesmen than at the country’s two biggest cultural fests: the Goroka Show in mid-September and the Mt Hagen show over the third weekend in August. Massive feather headdresses, fearsome war paint, grass skirts, and traditional weapons all feature in the celebrations, with as many as 100 tribal groups from across the Highlands attending, many taking part in singsing (traditional songs and dances).
Venturing beneath the waves
Papua New Guinea is a world-class diving destination, with exceptional marine diversity, varied underwater topography including colorful reefs and splendid walls, numerous WWII wrecks to explore, and good visibility year-round. Rabaul in New Britain is particularly renowned for its wealth of wrecks; Kimbe Bay in West New Britain boasts a bewildering array of reef fish, while dive sites near Kavieng in New Ireland attract large pelagic life such as rays, barracuda, grey sharks, and turtles. Off the mainland, Milne Bay has some of PNG’s best dive spots, while Madang offers a wide range of reef and wreck dives. You can base yourself in diving lodges or opt for a few days aboard a local live-aboard.
Immersing yourself in village life on the Trobriand Islands
Anthropologists have long been fascinated with the Trobriand Islands. They receive few visitors, so you are likely to be a subject of great curiosity and to receive a warm welcome in every village you enter. Visitors typically go to Kiriwina, the main island, where a couple of lodges and homestays allow for complete immersion in village life. The best way to explore the island is on foot, with a guide who can introduce you to village headmen and rainmakers who summon rain. These guides can take you to local skull caves, arrange presentations of banana leaf money creation by local women, and point out WWII relics and intricately painted yam houses. Yams are not just a source of sustenance, but also a symbol of prestige, and after a successful harvest, they are displayed in the villages. An exciting time to be here is during the Milamala Festival following the summer yam harvest, celebrated through cricket games, ribald dancing, canoe racing, and community gatherings.
Birdwatching in the Tari Basin
Papua New Guinea is a top birding destination, offering a chance to see exotic birds of paradise. One of the best locations for birdwatching is the Tari Basin and the Tari Gap in the Highlands, where varying altitudes ensure a high diversity of species. Luxurious lodges in the area run dedicated birding tours, enabling you to witness these iconic birds in their natural habitat.
Make it happen
Papua New Guinea may sound like one of the world’s more remote destinations, but a trip here is both attainable and highly rewarding. The capital, Port Moresby, is just one and a half hours by plane from Cairns, Australia. Papua New Guinea’s national airline, Air Niugini, offers several direct flights weekly from the capital to major cities like Singapore, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Manila, Brisbane, and Sydney.
There are few roads in Papua New Guinea, so expect to take several domestic flights from Port Moresby to reach your destinations. Boats link some of the outlying islands as well as various coastal locations, providing opportunities to travel via banana boat, cargo boat, or chartered boat along the Sepik. Some dive operators have live-aboard boats that access remote dive sites.
Most specialized activities require guides, which are best arranged in advance; PNG is not a country to visit on speculation. All nationalities need a visa to enter Papua New Guinea, although many can obtain a 60-day visa upon arrival for free at Port Moresby airport.
