Yorkshire’s Craft Beer Scene

In a regeneration area of old factories and warehouses, relics of Leeds’ 19th-century industrial might, a hooded monk looks down upon a makeshift beer garden from the top of a Grade II-listed mill. Inside, the scent of hops and malts laces the air. This is Northern Monk, one of dozens of craft breweries bringing new life to a Yorkshire beer tradition that dates back centuries.

The cloaked emblem of Northern Monk brewery nods to the fact that it was the monks of the 12th and 13th centuries who first brewed beer on a large scale. You only have to look at the dozens of medieval abbey ruins in Yorkshire to see why brewing is so ingrained in the culture of this region of England. If British brewing has a homeland, Yorkshire is it.

Yorkshire’s Brewing Heritage

According to the Good Beer Guide 2018 published by Britain’s Campaign for Real Ale (Camra), Yorkshire currently has just shy of 400 pubs and 174 breweries that excel in traditional ale. However, award-winning craft breweries are experimenting with new-world hops, flouting traditional rules with unconventional ingredients like tonka beans, chocolate, and local rhubarb. Today, the choice of brews is astounding, with tasting rooms ranging from quaint pubs to trendy exposed-brick warehouses. For those interested in beer travel, Yorkshire has become the premier destination to witness England’s transition from offering warm, flat beer to standing as a flag-bearer for some of the world’s best craft brews. Tours, tasting flights, international collaborations, and even recreational brewing days are all options available for sampling, if you know where to look.

The Theakston Dynasty

Before Northern Monk and Yorkshire’s other craft breweries emerged, there were longstanding names such as Theakston’s, Tetley’s, Samuel Smith, John Smith, and Black Sheep—each a Yorkshire-based global real-ale brand and bastion of traditional cask-conditioned beer. Beer travel in this region should begin with their 19th-century origins. Pretty little Masham may hold the distinction of being the most notable village in British beer history as it continues to be home to two hugely successful independent family breweries, Theakston and Black Sheep. Visitors can check in at one of Masham’s pubs with rooms and then explore the breweries on foot from the village’s cobbled medieval square; it won’t be long before the tang of hops and malts wafts through the lanes.

Theakston and Black Sheep Breweries

The Theakston brewhouse, established in 1875, marks the beginning of a significant legacy in beer-making. After five generations of brewing excellence, two branches of the family went separate ways, leading to the establishment of Black Sheep by Paul Theakston in 1992. Both breweries boast traditional brewing methods, utilizing British barley and hops. However, Black Sheep, freed from rigid traditions, invested in a five-barrel microbrewery to experiment with unique craft beers such as a gooseberry sour and a lager named 54 Degrees North, named after Masham’s latitude. The story of the Theakston family feud is a highlight of Black Sheep’s brewery tour, complemented by the Black Sheep Baa—a casual bistro restaurant where visitors can taste locally inspired dishes paired with craft beers.

Theakston’s brewery remains staunchly traditional; touring this brewery is an opportunity to see its 19th-century, gravity-fed equipment in action. Visitors can also enjoy a quaint tasting room styled after a traditional English pub, surrounded by the brewery’s production plant. Theakston’s most famous ale, Old Peculier, is named after Masham’s 12th-century ecclesiastical seal.

Emerging Craft Breweries

Yorkshire’s thriving brewery scene has birthed a new generation of small-batch brewers operating from their backyards, producing quality brews that rarely leave the county. One accessible option for exploring these breweries is through a chauffeured day trip with Brewtown Tours. These tours originate from Leeds or York on different days of the week. The Leeds tour features Mike Quirk, who runs Quirky Ales in a small unit in Garforth. According to Mark Stredwick, who manages Brewtown, “He does more business than the local village pub now.” Near York, Dave Shaw, a former local government employee, operates a small tasting bar within his Hop Studio brewery. He supplies a porter to the House of Commons and produces a remarkable 8.5% abv white chocolate stout aged in bourbon barrels.

Local Flavor at Half Moon Brewery

Tony Rogers, a humorous character with a thick Yorkshire accent, has transformed his outhouse into a 5.5-barrel brewing plant called Half Moon Brewery. Tony’s parents once ran a pub, and like many Yorkshire folk, he began as a homebrewer. Now, Half Moon’s ales are available in reputable pubs across Yorkshire. Enthusiasts can learn about British hops that evoke memories of ‘hay and summer meadows,’ while Tony often experiments with seasonal brews featuring local ingredients such as elderflower and honey. A visit with Brewtown includes local food pairings, challenging the notion that only wine should accompany meals. Additionally, beer lovers can join Tony for a hands-on brewing experience starting from £50 per person.

Visit Yorkshire’s Craft Breweries

Yorkshire’s modern craft breweries are increasingly welcoming visitors and frequently offer tours. Leveraging the region’s industrial heritage, many breweries have set up urban taprooms in historic buildings with exposed brick walls; this is where hop-heavy beers attract a stylish, trendy crowd. The focus on small-batch experimentation, international collaborations, and bold American hop flavors defines these breweries.

Some of the most exciting new operations can be found in smaller towns. In Malton, a North Yorkshire market town known for its monthly food market, award-winning Brass Castle opened a discreet taproom in a Georgian house in 2017, serving artisan coffee and vegan pies alongside its outstanding brews, all vegan-friendly and gluten-free. Meanwhile, Magic Rock Brewing in Huddersfield has been a leader in heavily hopped beers since its launch in 2011, with its signature beer, Cannonball, boasting a 7.2% abv hop-forward IPA that surprised many traditional Yorkshire brewers. Although Huddersfield may not be a tourist hotspot, it’s worth a train ride from Leeds for a tasting flight and weekend food trucks in its courtyard, alongside regular festivals. Murals covering the taproom walls depict whimsical creatures drawn by the brewery’s in-house artist, reflecting the vibrant style of Magic Rock’s cans.

Craft Beer Fun in York

Even amid the historic charm of York, known for its timber-framed houses and narrow lanes, progressive craft beers are carving out their niche thanks to York Brewery and Brew York. The latter occupies a vast space inside the old city walls, offering bar tables facing brewing tanks along with a small terrace overlooking the River Foss. A chalkboard proudly advertises their ‘Viking DNA’ smoked porter, which reflects York’s Scandinavian heritage, alongside the cleverly named ‘Brew York, Brew York’ American pale ale. This exemplifies the Yorkshire brewing community: traditional, forward-looking, distinctly local, and always infused with humor.