If you were to pinpoint the middle of North America, it would fall at Winnipeg. This is just one of a list of factoids that many of the 821,000 locals from Manitoba’s capital reel off about their city. Among others? Ian Fleming’s hero, James Bond, was based on a real spy from Winnipeg; it was the world’s first city to adopt the 911 emergency phone number; and it lends its namesake to the beloved Winnie the Pooh (aka Winnipeg Bear).
These days there’s no need for superlatives to attract attention. Why? This delightful city – nicknamed the ‘Peg – is a fabulous destination in its own right. Moreover, visitors are finally awake to its charms: cutting-edge museums, architectural marvels, top-notch eateries, and fun cultural events, all set within the enticing context of the city’s rich history.
The Forks
To get your bearings, start at The Forks National Historic Site, located near the junction of the Red and Assiniboine Rivers (win-nipi is Cree for ‘muddy waters’). For over 6000 years, this was a trading junction for Indigenous peoples and in the 19th century, it became the fur trading center for the Hudson Bay Company and the North West Company. Attesting to the city’s incredible wealth at the turn of the century are the converted stables housing The Forks Market that formerly served the impressive Union Station.
In winter, when the rivers are frozen, rent a pair of skates and join the hardy locals as they skate along the 6km long Red River Mutual Trail. Then enjoy a craft brew from The Common in The Forks, choosing from any number of fabulous food stalls that feature Manitoban cuisine.
History Through Architecture
Designed by American architect Antoine Predock, the Canadian Museum for Human Rights is more than a building; it provides an incredibly moving and inspiring experience. Allow at least half a day to wander its floors and ponder over the recorded footage. Exhibits are arranged by themes, including Indigenous perspectives, Canadian journeys, and the Holocaust. The physical journey reflects the psychological one of imprisonment and freedom: you enter dark galleries at times and exit into natural light. After meandering along the zig-zagging alabaster walkways, take the lift to the Tower of Hope, where you may find yourself pondering life over the city views.
Afterward, plan a meal at the museum’s restaurant, ERA Bistro. This sleek, minimalist space has a wonderful ambience and delicious fare that features locally sourced, traditional, and sustainable ingredients.
St. Boniface
Founded in 1818, this neighbourhood is now home to one of Manitoba’s largest francophone communities and serves as the heart of the region’s French culture. Be sure to visit the spectacular St. Boniface Basilica and see the grave of Louis Riel, the Métis leader who was crucial to the creation of Manitoba as a province. Consequently, enjoy a stroll along Provencher Boulevard while munching on a chocolate croissant from one of the many cafés.
The Exchange District
The city centre’s Exchange District will impress design aficionados and history buffs alike. It is named after the Winnipeg Grain Exchange, Canada’s center for the grain industry in the late 1800s. By the early 1900s, Winnipeg emerged as the fastest-growing city in North America. Incredibly, during Winnipeg’s heyday, there were more millionaires per capita than New York City.
The building boom saw an explosion of construction: wander around to spot some of North America’s first skyscrapers that were designed in the Chicago School style; then check out the amazing Brutalist architectural gems of the 1960s such as the Canadian Grain Commission building and the Royal Manitoba Theatre Centre. The Winnipeg Architecture Foundation’s website lists excellent tours.
Today, the restored Exchange District is celebrated for its great shopping, with fashion designers, hip jewellers, vintage records, and unusual finds. Select a trendy toque at retro-themed Haberdashery before adding a touch of tasteful bling from jeweller Hillary Druxman. Don’t miss her individual pieces made for various non-profits and their fundraising efforts. Next, Tiny Feast is one of the most attractive stationery stores around. To relive your childhood games from the fifties onwards, browse Toad Hall Toys.
The ‘Peg’s Other ‘Don’t Miss’ Spots
As far as live animal displays go, it’s hard to get better than the Assiniboine Park Zoo, featuring exhibits that cover the province’s ecology from bogs to Arctic beaches. Notably, the focus is on the rehabilitation of species, including polar bears, Arctic foxes, and wolves. You even get to feel like you are in the water with bears and seals thanks to an underwater viewing tunnel.
Then, peruse some exhibits of another kind at the Winnipeg Art Gallery, home to the world’s largest collection of contemporary Inuit art.
But if anything will grab your attention, it’s the statue of the Greek God Hermes (nicknamed the Golden Boy) atop the Manitoba Legislative Building. Satisfy your inner nerd with a fascinating tour of the building, the Hermetic Code Tour, with Heartland International Travel & Tours. This eccentric trail reveals the occult clues hidden in the building’s architecture.
Dynamic Neighbourhoods
Winnipeg is a sum of its parts; gorgeous communities line the snaking rivers and surround the city center. The pretty streets are framed by glorious arches of massive elm trees (Winnipeg is said to have the largest number of publicly owned elm trees in the world). Wellington Crescent is the ‘Peg’s millionaires mile, with large mansions that front the river. Moreover, be sure to pass through Wolseley, affectionately known as the ‘granola belt’, and enjoy a bite at artsy Osborne Village, where great eateries like Baked Expectations and Segovia make it a magnet for foodies. Don’t forget your camera—the slightly grittier West End boasts some of the best street murals around, celebrating the diverse characters and ethnic communities that thrive there.
Festivals and a Knack for Theatrics
Winnipeg loves a good party. Some of the many festivals held throughout the year include Folklorama, North America’s largest multicultural festival held in August that celebrates around 40 ethnic cultures. Summer brings the Winnipeg Fringe Theatre Festival, where performers can showcase their creativity. The result is a jaw-dropping array of acts, so secure a street-side seat in the Exchange District or buy tickets for theatre venue performances.
Winter’s Festival du Voyageur invites locals to celebrate their fur-trade history in Fort Gibraltar through food, dance, and costumed re-enactments. The fort, built in 1809 as headquarters of the North West Company, has a rich history marked by many skirmishes and was reconstructed in 1978. The two rival companies eventually merged under the name of the Hudson’s Bay Company in 1821.
Hungry for More?
The ‘Peg is the place for excellent dining experiences, thanks to its extensive community of top-notch chefs and artisan beverage specialists. Explore numerous options to indulge your culinary cravings throughout Winnipeg.
