Exploring Odesa: A Two-Day Itinerary
You might think it’s tough to compete with the ancient sights and urban culture of Kyiv or to rival Lviv’s Mitteleuropa charm, but Odesa – Ukraine’s third-largest city and cosmopolitan Black Sea port – is catching up. Its string of beaches makes it the country’s number-one summer destination, while the burgeoning foodie scene offers an intriguing fusion of regional influences.
Digging deeper, there are plenty of stories around every corner in this vibrant city founded on the steppe by Catherine the Great. The legacy of Odesa’s 19th-century ‘free port’ past, many European immigrants, and once thriving Jewish community is still present in the cobblestone streets named after celebrated Russian writers, behind the pastel-hued facades of neoclassical and art nouveau mansions, and within labyrinthine catacombs. Here’s how to make the most of your stay if you only have a couple of days to take it all in.
Day 1
Morning
This city is best enjoyed on foot, so start early with a coffee – or perhaps a kompot (fruity drink) – at Kompot, a trademark Odesa cafe on pedestrian Derybasivska street. A leisurely walk towards the port takes you past a ‘who’s who’ of Odesa’s illustrious ex-residents. Look for the statues of José de Ribas (the Spaniard who built Odesa harbour) nearby, beloved Russian poet Alexander Pushkin at the colonnaded City Hall around the corner, and Frenchman Duc de Richelieu (the city’s first governor) along tree-lined Prymorsky boulevard, above the iconic Potemkin Steps.
Probably the most photographed Odesa landmark – recalling the famous scene from Sergei Eisenstein’s brilliant Battleship Potemkin – the steps are flanked by the terraced Istanbul and Greek parks and make a perfect spot to linger, enjoying impressive views of the harbour below. You can take the funicular down and back if you’re feeling lazy. End your morning stroll in the Garden of Sculptures at the Odesa Literary Museum, but arrange to go with a local to appreciate the urban folklore of Odesa characters at this open-air exhibition; a new sculpture is added each April 1, during the city’s annual Carnival Humorina.
Afternoon
To get your first taste of Odesa’s flourishing culinary landscape, pop into the City Food Market for a quick lunch. It’s a tempting mix of street food including everything from burgers and pasta to a hummus bar and pho soup stand under one trendy roof.
Sufficiently energized, embark on one of Odesa’s more unusual adventures: a catacombs tour. You’ll get a great experience at the Secrets of Underground Odesa museum in Moldavanka, the raw neighborhood masterfully described in Isaac Babel’s Odessa Tales. The two-hour guided tour takes you 25m below ground through 3km of tunnels (only a fraction of the city’s extensive 2000km of catacombs) and shares a fascinating history of limestone quarries, smugglers, slave traders, WWII partisans’ resistance movements, and even a Soviet bomb shelter.
Once back on Odesa’s charming cobblestones, devote the rest of the afternoon to some fresh-air fun. A ramble through the sprawling Shevchenko Park will lead you to Lanzheron, the first in a line of beaches stretching southeast of the city centre. While Odesa can’t boast pristine or dazzling stretches of sand, its beaches get absolutely packed in summer. Therefore, exploring the 5.5km Route of Health on two wheels is a fantastic way to see the coast. Rent a bike on Lanzheron beach and follow the path to Arkadia, where you can reward yourself with a drink at one of the many beach bars.
Evening
If you’re feeling adventurous (and it’s summer), stay on Arkadia to sample Odesa’s infamous nightlife, as the lively Ibiza-style clubs here go off until dawn. You don’t need to venture far for dinner; the popular Dacha, just above the beach, is a fun spot with wholesome meals in an ambiance resembling a Russian country house. For a more low-key evening, head to the City Garden for flavorful Ukrainian borsch soup, Black Sea salmon, and Georgian khachapuri pastry at stylish Klarabara, followed by live jazz at the cozy Perron 7 club.
Day 2
Morning
Kick off day two with a ‘gogol-mogol espresso’ at Gogol-Mogol, a cheerful cafe named after a traditional egg-based dessert and decorated with old books and bikes. Afterward, spend the morning museum-hopping. At the Odesa Archaeological Museum, you’ll encounter unexpected actors on the region’s historical stage. Impressive statues and sarcophagi attest to the spread of ancient Greek settlements along the northern Black Sea coast, while the Scythian section brings to life the nomadic warriors that once roamed the Ukrainian steppe.
The city has several noteworthy art collections, but Ukraine’s own MoOMA (not to be confused with the famous acronym), or the Museum of Odesa Modern Art, is the venue for the Odesa Biennale of Contemporary Art for good reason. A retrospective of its first decade features thought-provoking – and often political – works of Odesan avant-garde, post-modernist, non-conformist, and conceptualist art.
Afternoon
When it’s time for lunch, stop by the sleek Gastrobar Odesa to fuel up with some healthy tapas or grilled meat, but consider skipping the drinks list to keep a clear head for your next destination.
Hop on a trolleybus from Shevchenko Park to the Shustov Cognac Museum, which is worth a visit even if you’re not a fan of the fancy drink. A guided tour includes tasting and can be arranged online; you’ll learn about the Shustov family, the drink’s history (which arrived at Odesa’s port way back in 1803), and the 150-year-old Odesa Cognac Factory as you sip your way around its ancient cellars.
After your tasting journey, catch another trolleybus to the bustling Privoz Market, a longstanding city institution. Mingling with locals at this massive, chaotic farmers’ market, which sells everything from caviar to pirated CDs, is a fun way to soak up the local life while browsing the stalls with fresh produce or haggling over secondhand bargains.
Evening
Make your way to the Palais Royal Garden for dinner at Maman, the premier venue for Odesa fusion cuisine. Alternatively, join the trendy crowd at Dizyngoff, near the Potemkin Steps, for creative cocktails and a menu infused with French and Middle Eastern influences. Conclude your day in style with a performance at the magnificent Odesa Opera & Ballet Theatre, known for its stunning neoclassical architecture and excellent acoustics. If alternative-culture events are more your style, don’t miss the open-air Green Theatre in Shevchenko Park, which hosts a varied program of concerts, movies, and other happenings during warm Odesa nights.
Make it Happen
Odesa is well-connected by air with numerous European destinations, as well as Istanbul and Tel Aviv. If you’re flying into Kyiv, there are several daily flights between Odesa and the Ukrainian capital (which only take an hour), or you can opt for the romantic overnight train experience.
For a touch of French-inspired luxury, Hotel de Paris Odessa is a contemporary boutique hotel recently opened in a restored 19th-century mansion, just a minute away from the Potemkin Steps, featuring a spa and a restaurant serving international cuisine. A great option for budget travelers is Babushka Grand Hostel, housed in an 18th-century apartment close to the train station and Privoz Market, offering both dorms and private rooms, a communal kitchen, and a relaxed vibe.
