Discovering Uzbekistan: A Traveler’s Guide
Uzbekistan’s gems have long been known to adventurous explorers. The Silk Road cities of Bukhara, Samarkand, and Khiva hold some of the world’s most exquisite Islamic architecture. Hectic bazaars, half-hidden desert citadels, silk workshops, and the chance to glimpse the vanishing Aral Sea are all world-class draws. Moreover, the country serves as a convenient launching pad for treks and travel within Central Asia.
The factors that have deterred travelers in the past—such as a complicated visa regime, deep-rooted Soviet-era controls, and the country’s poor human rights situation—are starting to change and, importantly, change rapidly.
As Uzbekistan opens its doors to travelers and the world, there has never been a better time to embark on that long-dreamed-of trip to the heart of Central Asia, before the rest of the world catches on.
Uzbekistan in Context
Following the death of Uzbekistan’s strongman president Islam Karimov in 2016, the country has been slowly but surely emerging from a political (and tourism) deep freeze. Reform-minded successor Shavkat Mirziyoyev has instituted numerous important changes, such as reforms to security services and a significant meeting with the US president in May 2018. Consequently, a mood of hope and guarded optimism envelops Uzbekistan these days.
Although all is not perfect—human rights violations continue, and there are ongoing issues with alleged forced labor in the cotton industry—things are undoubtedly moving in the right direction. In the year following Mirziyoyev’s reforms, tourism numbers in Uzbekistan surged by 25%. As the country sheds its repressive past, interest in its architectural riches and Silk Road history is growing, making it a prime time to visit before the crowds return.
Visas
Uzbekistan’s ambitious plan to implement visa-free travel—announced in 2017—has been postponed until 2021. However, the current visa situation is significantly easier than it was even a year or two ago. In 2018, Uzbekistan introduced 30-day visas that replaced the previous 15-day visa duration. Additionally, visa-free travel is now available for tourists from Israel, Malaysia, Japan, South Korea, Indonesia, Turkey, and Singapore.
The formerly burdensome ‘Letters of Invitation’ are no longer required for citizens of over 40 countries, including the US, Canada, EU nations, Australia, New Zealand, India, and China. This development means that obtaining a 30-day tourist visa is now a straightforward procedure, available in just two to three days at overseas embassies. Furthermore, e-visas went into effect in July 2018, starting with Indian citizens, with plans for expansion to other nationalities.
Border Crossings
A significant development for travelers is the reopening of several long-closed border crossings with Tajikistan, including the popular Samarkand-to-Penjikent crossing. As a result, visitors can once again use Samarkand as a launch pad for day trips to the Sogdian ruins at Ancient Penjikent or for breathtaking multi-day treks in the nearby Fan Mountains, just a couple of hours away.
The reopening of these border crossings makes it much easier for travelers to make overland trips across Central Asia, eliminating the previous hassles and delays caused by pricey flights and complicated visa processes.
New Train Links
Navigating Uzbekistan is becoming easier every year. High-speed trains now connect Tashkent to Bukhara and Samarkand (the latter section opened in 2016). The line is set to extend across the desert to ancient Khiva by the end of 2018, providing a welcome alternative to the long drive across the Karakum Desert. Additionally, train routes now avoid the transits through neighboring Turkmenistan and Tajikistan, thereby removing the necessity for visa checks. The opening of a direct rail service between Tashkent and Andijon through the Kamchik Tunnel in 2017 has also streamlined access to the Fergana Valley, with fast and comfortable daily services.
Moreover, in June 2017, a new train opened, linking Uzbekistan with Astana in Kazakhstan, thus adding more travel routes for visitors throughout the region.
Flights
Direct air connections between Tashkent and Dushanbe (the capital of Tajikistan) restarted in 2017 for the first time in 25 years, marking a pivotal thaw in relations between the two countries. In 2018, Turkish Airlines commenced twice-weekly direct flights between Samarkand and Istanbul, eliminating the need to route through Tashkent. Flights between Tashkent and Kabul also began in 2018, with direct flights to neighboring Ashgabat in the works, reconnecting Uzbekistan with Turkmenistan after more than a decade.
Money
In 2017, Uzbekistan’s black market was abolished overnight, eliminating the need for travelers to covertly exchange currency. Now, one can simply walk into a bank and receive the same exchange rate as the open market. With equalized bank and market rates, using ATMs in Uzbekistan makes financial sense once again, alleviating a past travel headache.
Communications
Fortunately, communication apps like Skype, Viber, and WhatsApp started functioning in 2018 after being unavailable for three years. Major social media platforms, including Facebook and Instagram, are also accessible, which delightfully allows travelers to capture and share stunning images of sunsets over the gleaming tiles of the Registan.
Relaxed Atmosphere
Equally tangible is the noticeable change in mood across Uzbekistan. Uzbek police and immigration officials are no longer figures to be avoided at all costs. Reports of bribery have diminished, contributing to a more relaxed ambiance felt throughout the country. Furthermore, visitors can now photograph Tashkent’s stunning metro stations for the first time since their Soviet-era construction.
While it’s essential to recognize that Uzbekistan still trails behind some neighboring countries regarding human rights, positive changes are definitely underway. There exists a sense of optimism that travelers will respond favorably to Uzbekistan’s ongoing efforts to reform and welcome visitors from all walks of life.
