At long last, Baltimore is shedding its industrial pallor, providing numerous good reasons to venture beyond the touristy Inner Harbor. The city’s neighborhoods, buzzing with life, are where it’s at, with new restaurants, bars, and boutiques offering unique twists on each area’s persona.
Here are the best neighborhoods in Baltimore that are worth exploring.
Mount Vernon
Best neighborhood for museums
The Gilded Age lives on in this exclusive corner of town, about a mile up North Charles from the Inner Harbor. It all began with Revolutionary War hero John Eager Howard, whose family donated land in 1815 for the Washington Monument, the impressive Doric marble column that towers over the quarter. Subsequently, some of the city’s wealthiest individuals constructed lavish townhouses centered on Mount Vernon Square. Today, it serves as a destination for culture-seekers and those seeking tree-shaded relaxation.
At the core of this area, the spectacular Walters Art Museum exhibits 55 centuries of art and artifacts from around the globe. With medieval armor, art nouveau jewelry, and even Egyptian mummies in the mix, there’s plenty to explore. Henry Walters, one of the early residents, built the Georgian structure specifically as a private gallery for his friends. Thankfully, it is now open to all—free of charge.
Nearby, the historic George Peabody Library captivates with its five tiers of cast-iron, open-faced alcoves filled mostly with 18th- and 19th-century books overlooking a stunning atrium, often hailed as the world’s most beautiful library. This spot is familiar to many; it has been featured in films such as Sleepless in Seattle and Washington Square. Peabody, once a grocer’s apprentice, became a philanthropist, gifting the city not only the library but also an esteemed music academy and cultural center.
For dining, visit the Korean-bowl lunch joint, Dooby’s Coffee, showcasing that this neighborhood is far from stagnant. This vitality is further exemplified at the Hotel Revival Baltimore, located on the original site of the Garretts’ mansion (of B&O Railroad fame) and adorned in mod-Americana style. Opt for a north-facing room to admire the Washington Monument gleaming far below. For a special experience, enjoy a cocktail at the rooftop bar while watching the sun dip below the city skyline.
Fells Point
Best neighborhood for seafood
The historic neighborhood of Fells Point was founded in 1730 as a shipping hub and has maintained a reputation for seediness ever since. However, with the arrival in 2017 of the stunning Sagamore Pendry Baltimore hotel in the former Recreation Pier building, a dramatic resurgence has begun. Today, one-of-a-kind boutiques, bars, restaurants, and nightclubs occupy the neighborhood’s colonial-era homes, which are set along charming cobbled streets.
The heart of the area is Broadway Square, a spacious brick plaza just north of the waterfront, illuminated by 18th-century-style lanterns. Much like in colonial times, the square has become a gathering point and is the venue for the weekly farmers market. Given its waterfront location, Fells Point is the ideal place to sample Old-Bay-spiced crab cakes or savor super-fresh oysters. The iconic Thames Street Oyster House is always a great option, or opt for an upscale dining experience at the Sagamore Pendry’s clubby Rec Pier Chop House. Additionally, you can enjoy a whiskey or brew at The Horse You Came In On Saloon, which is said to be the place where Edgar Allan Poe consumed his last drink.
You may find yourself tempted to linger all afternoon and evening in this vibrant quarter, relishing food, drink, and shopping. However, whenever you’re ready, simply hop aboard a water taxi to zip back to Downtown Baltimore (and the nearby Inner Harbor), which is no longer a world away.
Hampden
Best neighborhood for indie shopping
The heart of the up-and-coming Hampden neighborhood is 36th St, a revitalized boulevard featuring kitschy-chic boutiques, terrace restaurants, and vibrant happy-hour bars, commonly referred to as “The Avenue.” Cinema enthusiasts may recognize this area, which has prominently appeared in many John Waters films. The iconic film director, a Baltimore native, once described The Avenue as an “uneasy mix of redneck culture and hipster culture.”
In recent years, artists have flocked to Hampden, leading to a plethora of original shops, including the quirky Caravanserai. The independent bookstore Atomic Books features a bar at the back, where John Waters receives his fan mail. Furthermore, restaurants here transcend traditional crab cakes and oysters, notably the Bluebird Cocktail Room, adorned with dark blue walls and chandeliers, offering pub-style dining with sublime, handcrafted cocktails inspired by literature (make sure to try the rhubarb-based Ms. Havisham).
Moreover, the rich history of this authentically working-class neighborhood is impossible to ignore. You’ll encounter a taste of “Ole Bawlmer” at Cafe Hon, home to the famous HonFest, an annual tribute held in June celebrating “all things Hon”—a term of endearment pronounced beautifully with the local accent, showcasing mid-century fashion, including beehive hairstyles, cat-eye glasses, and vibrant print dresses.
Station North
Best neighborhood for street art
The arts define Station North, a neighborhood that retains a somewhat gritty feel just north of Penn Station, where galleries, live-work spaces, row homes, and businesses are beginning to flourish. The Maryland Institute College of Art (MICA), located at the west end of North Street, serves as a hub of artistic creativity, while The Charles movie theater, situated in a former cable-car barn to the east, showcases classic, art, and foreign films.
One of the significant developments is the state-of-the-art Stavros Niarchos Foundation Parkway Film Center, which opened in May in a beautifully restored movie palace. This venue houses the organizers of the Maryland Film Festival and features bold programming year-round, including international, independent, documentary, and cult-favorite films across various genres.
Moreover, Station North is adorned with an abundance of murals created by street artists from around the globe. Many of these artworks are part of a project curated by the renowned artist and MICA graduate, Gaia. You can utilize this map to create your own mural tour. There’s also the hidden Graffiti Alley (behind Motor House, a vibrant hub for creativity, gallery, and performance space), where every inch of wall space becomes an outdoor sanctuary for artists’ free expression (and the sole location in Maryland where graffiti is permitted), changing almost daily.
For refreshments, Red Emma’s Bookstore and Coffeehouse serves as a “radical gathering place,” merging artists with coffee and some seriously enticing veggie dishes, including Buffalo cauliflower wings and tempeh BLTs. Additionally, Joe Squared Pizza offers live music alongside sourdough-crust pizza crafted from a 200-year-old starter.
